96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

I would say yes there is a good probability that those adapters would cause it not to fit, because I had a hard time getting my wastegate dump pipe on just from the gaskets spacing the thing out. BUT you don't know till you try. I'll try to snoop around mine today to figure that out for you for sure.

 

What did it conflict with? The downpipe?

 

Yeah I hear you. Its why Im taking my time to do this right. You can always get an oil-less turbo btw

It might but it will be tight, the waste gate down pipe dosen't have a lot of space iirc if you are refering to the CX kit.

 

I may end up chopping off the 2-bolt flange from the CXRacing header, and have someone weld on a vband flange instead if it comes down to it.

 

if any of u need any motivation to work on this, it would brighten my day to hear/see some "vrooom, eeerrrk!, spfttt,VROOOOOM, sppftt VROOOOOOOM!" just saying

 

Yeah. Don't worry about it until you get the headers though... I'm assuming they are all a tiny bit different considering they're made by hand.

 

Haha understood!

 

Hey fellas I'm having an issue and maybe someone who knows the 5vz-fe engine better than me can chime in. Lately I've been running really rich and the idle has been all over the rpm range from 1000 to 1800 rpms. My first thought was that the FPR needed replacing, but after smelling the vacuum hose and not smelling any leaking gas, I'm not too sure. Can a FPR still be bad and not leak gas into the vacuum hose?
Just today I took off my idle control valve and liberally cleaned it and it definetely helped. I want my idle at 1100 RPMs and 14.7 AFR though. WTF?
I'm getting like 16.6 MPG right now and quite frankly it sucks.

 

Could be the FPR getting bad readings, could be a pump issue (you get your new pump yet?) and it could be the ECU. A quick ECU test it to reset it (remove the battery's neg term to reset).

Could also be the injectors. Are you running the aux injectors currently?

 

Actually I think cleaning the idle control valve did the trick. It had a bunch of oil in it from my rear mount setup constantly leaking into my intake. After a good constant drive it will be at 13.2 AFR (like at a red light) then slowly go up to 14.7. I find it weird that it would just start acting up really bad now out of nowhere. I did reset the ECU by taking the + battery wire off and holding it on the - terminal for 10 minutes. I haven't put in the walbro yet

 

Wouldn't pulling the fuse for the ECU be easier? At least you get to keep your radio presets that way, lol.

 

I wasn't aware there was an ECU fuse??? oh well I know it resets the instant you touch the positive wire to the negative terminal. You have to wait quite a while for it to reset when you just cut off the juice to the ECU

 

Huh? I think someone's pulling your leg man, lol. Touching the positive wire to the negative terminal doesn't do anything.

 

That advice was straight from toyota. It zaps any information containing energy that could be possibly reserved and lingering somewhere in the harness and/or other components. Makes sense to me.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Ill probably be cleaning my IAC as well. Idle has been a little off lately for my truck; very low and almost stalled when I turned on my head lights...

 

I had to use a stuck screw remover where when you hit the end with a hammer, it spins counter clockwise forcing the screw out.

 

Hey man, how hard was it to get your oil pan off? How did you get those bolts off at the back of the pan, right up against the rear main seal? They look like a bitch!

 

You talking about where the bolts at the rear of the oil pan are obstructed by the cover plate on the trans? Just unbolt that cover plate and remove it. Just remember to put it back. Don't do what I did and forget to put it back, it's harder to get to once everything else is back in place. The actual taking the pan off and putting the new one on was the easiest part, it was removing and reinstalling the front differential to get at the oil pan that was the huge pain.

 

What ^ he said. Except I didn't have to mess with any plates being a 5 speed.

 

Thanks! Was your third bolt on the diff an allen wrench btw?