TRD Supercharge kit

If you were going to do it, and your truck is pre-09 (I know yours isn't), you may as well just go for the UCON setup and get it dialed in. I saw on here you can get an easy 20 HP that way and the UCON is expandable/reprogramable to fit whatever mods you decide to chuck it's way.

 

Still patiently waiting on URD for the 09+ UCON setup

 

Me too, even though this guy is right:

I did hear a rumor that you could buy the Unichip harness then hack it up to get the UCON to work on an 09+, but I've never heard of anyone actually doing it.

 

Never say never.

Gadget did say he's working on getting the right harness connectors. What ever that means. Didn't know it was that hard.

 

I don't think it's hard. I think it's not economical. When they could just order the connectors and wire them up it was simple. Now that Toyota isn't sharing the connections or wiring diagram openly it's not so simple, I think.

Gadgets been at this for 5 years. I'd say we're darn near close to the last nail in this ideas coffin.

 

If I remember it right, this is what Gadget was referring to when I ask him awhile back.

 

Yup. I never say things in certain terms on here unless it's from my experience though. I don't need some little TW expert crawling up my anus.

 

So I've wanted to get a wide band myself for a while now. Is it easily doable by a weekend mechanic in a day? I've seen a few gauges that want me to weld in the sensors, is there another way of doing it? When you guys talk about bungs do you have to drill and tap a hole of does the bung tap the hole for you?

I've never tapped a metal pipe before so I have no clue what to do. Any advice is appreciated.

 

Unichip is the devil. The devil works in mysterious ways. That's how

 

You can weld or do what I did and buy a weldless bung by AEM:

$77 AEM 30-2355-300 3" No-Weld O2 Sensor Mount

http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-2355-300-No-Weld-Sensor-Mount/dp/B003ISEFKW

Yes you have to drill the hole but not tap if you use the AEM weldless bung

It's pretty easy to do. Few hours if you haven't done it before. I would recommend using a pilot drill bit first then use a uni-bit and open it up to 3/4"

 

I've drilled plenty of holes in everything from thin sheet steel to 15 ton frames. I used to help out in my dads old farm machinery retail shop, he sold it a few years ago, so I know a thing or two about that end of things. The 15 tons were a real fun time until we finally got a electronic magnetized drill. I've just never done the whole drill and tap thing and I wasn't looking forward to it. My welds are crap plus I know welding exhaust is not something an amateur should be doing.

Thanks for the link, this suddenly looks like a viable project .

 

Yeah no problem helping out. The drill and tap is super easy. Just use plenty of lube when you're tapping it, no pun intended

Forget to mention only drill the holes at 10 O'clock or 2 O'clock position which is ideal due to condensation and less chance of road debris hitting it.

 

I always use a small enough bit that I don't need the lube when I'm tapping it

 

LOL alright man

 

this.

or, you can just line it up with the o2 sensor.. thats what I did..

 

Does the shear joy of the sound of the helical screws meshing together ever go away? I hope not.

 

Only if the engine leans out and blows.

 

Even then it's all good if the wife gets you a new 1GF-RE for Christmas

 

add a TRD SC replacement and she will be a perfect wife

 

the joy from the sound... never goes away....