MAPECU3 config and wiring

Not sure if anyone really sets up piggyback units on their own on here, but I just put a used MAPECU3 in my truck to control the fuel and timing on my turbo setup.

I'm having a bit of an issue just getting the truck to stay running today after the install. It will fire up and stumble slowly killing itself. It threw a P1310 code, which is saying #2 spark coil. I'm not sure if this code is true since the truck only ran for about 5 seconds before dying. I did intercept this wire and there is a possibly that it is soldering issue at my end. It sounds like a too rich dying, but my wideband was reading leaning out as it died. Will a truck even fire up for a few seconds on 2 cylinders of a 4 cylinder wasted spark motor? I did smell a bit of fuel. The truck isn't displaying rpm on the MAPECU dashboard. I'm not sure if there is lag in the dashboard display or I'm really not getting a spark reading. I believe the MAPECU reads rpm off the spark intercept from what I can gather. I'm going to pull out the jumper harness later this week and test the wire. Only one issue I'm not getting an igniter error message on the piggyback display.


Before the install the truck ran good with no check engine lights. Its a lot of stuff I changed so it is pretty hard to baby step this install any more than what I just did. I have all my tables zeroed out so I'm not changing anything from stock. It does seem that if I zero out the fuel table in MAF intercept/ MAP y-axis my fuel should be the same as stock. I think this is how I can eliminate a fuel issue.

Does the spark wire sound like this type of issue? I could post up my wiring diagram and configuration settings if anyone is also familiar with tuning a MAPECU3.

 

Answered my first question. About having it on wasted spark.

I have only had a limited amount of time with the Map-ECU2, and less with the Map-ECU3. I can tell you that I accidentally had a few wires of the unit, wired in the wrong direction. That was an easy fix. That is my first suggestion, unless you already double checked that.

Then, if you haven't, ask Gadget about the settings to make sure yours are all correct. That is all I've got because everything else you've said so far is correct that I can tell. Then again, I don't have much experience with it.

 

I'm going to unplug the harness tonight hopefully. That would be awesome if it is just a simple backwards ignition wiring, but I checked all the wires a million times before cutting and soldering. It is weird I don't get any mapecu errors. There is a dashboard error that is suppose to go off and a led on the unit that should flicker. Since I'm not getting an rpm reading it has to be something spark related.

I can read tps, maf, oem o2 sensor, my aftermarket wb sensor, but nothing ignition.

I'll email Gadget next week if I can't figure out this weekend, but Halloween desert run might be more important, lol. Luckily the truck is on a jumper harness and can be rolling again in 30 minutes.

 

Got to love the jumper harnesses.

 

Even if I didn't need to deal with smog I'd still jumper harness this piggyback. Working behind the glove box is never fun.

 

I agree. I will always find a way to have a jumper harness. I had one on my Map-ECU2, and have one on my ProEFI Pro128.

 

One more idea I'm going to try before checking the wires which I'm positive are correct.

I have the aftermarket wideband wired with the ecu power. It might be sucking up too much current. I'll unplug it to see if that extra amp helps.

 

Found the issue. Wired up the ignition #2 backwards. Listen to the CEL every time. I should start after I cut and re-solder my wires.

 

That pesky pair of wires.

Like I said, I did the same. Glad you found it. Just in time to make some changes prior to the weekend. WOOT

 

It is so easy to get wire dyslexia even when it is just 11 wires that I needed to wire into my harness. I could only image how bad a standalone is to wire up. Just in time for a desert run this weekend. I'm going to solder the wires at work tomorrow.

 

Yes it is. Even more so if you try to wire when tired.... Keep us posted on how the tuning goes.

 

Wiring is all squared away. The day after the fix I did a 350 mile desert trip with no problems or any CEL's.

Last few weeks I've been starting on closed loop tuning. Basically all you do is try to zero out your fuel trims. Main reason why I'm doing this my LT fuel trims were maxed out negative. The computer can't take away any more fuel and on the verge of a CEL light giving me a too rich bank 1 code. Second reason is there is word out that CL tuning can alter your OL mixture. It may be my head or something but it does seem to hold true to that. Good chance it my head messing with me. Anyways it is always good to zero out fuel trims when performance tuning.

So you are probably wondering how I do this if you are ever thinking about trying this craziness out yourself. You can see in my pic I have my MAPCAL software running as my fuel table. The other table is a toyota ecu reader(top right). Try to ignore the hot chick desktop background. Out of the ecu reader I'm logging my fuel trims, TPS, and RPM. This is where it is getting tricky. Trail and Error I'm taking away fuel to help lower my trims over the fuel cells that I hit. It seems for this truck it is from the vacuum columns to 0 psi all the way to a little over 3000 rpm. I just need to be careful I don't bleed over yet into my OL table or get too aggressive in my trimming.
Right now it seems I can subtract fuel in one massive block except right around idle. My trims are still rich but better than before.


The best thing I did so far is adjust the factory o2 sensor voltage to run richer under boost while in Closed Loop. Wow did that add a lot of torque where it is normally a massive flat spot. I did this adjust before the fuel trim adjustment. You would need to adjust your fuel table again if you did it after. I found a few tables as a sample and tried them scaled down and built up to them after once I felt comfortable with my results. My AFR's tapper from 14.7 down to high 11's very nicely right into where my ecu pops into open loop. Before my AFR's would hit high 15's sometimes 16's at low rpm spool. VERY SCARY. I'm hoping another few week of this I should be dialed in to where I'll be happy with the bottom end tune. I'll check back in once I work on the OP part of my table.

I didn't discuss timing, but I basically pulled a good chunk of timing as a safety net and slowly add it in once my fuel is in a great spot.

 

How's the tuning going?

 

Going well. I didn't do anything last weekend. I have great bottom power during spool up right now. Truck feels like it came from Toyota with a turbo. I just need to tune the top end now. I might run out of injector soon. This piggyback is really easy for the diy tuner. It might be a little more work for the newer ecu's. This weekend my buddy should be able to help me. It is faster to tune if you have a second person to drive or log even though I can auto log. I just don't like large log files.

 

Good to know. I've play with the Hondata S300 on my Integra, pretty easy to use and lightly touch on the AEM older EMS. I hope this is easy as you say it is. Keep us updated

 

It's no standalone, but I'm pretty happy with what it can do so far. There are a few bugs in the software. I'd recommend it if you have the tuning bug and want something to get you by without spending an arm and a leg. I can wait to work on it more. I'm usually pretty tired after work to really want to make any progress until weekends.

I've heard of hondata. I've only tuned using a Cobb access port before the mapecu. Urd uses these piggybacks so I really didn't take much risk for trying to tune larger injectors.