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OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BenWA, Apr 17, 2011.

  1. Nov 17, 2014 at 6:23 PM
    #1961
    nj636

    nj636 Hub Master General

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    It's amazing they are replacing the entire diff.
    wait, nevermind.. it's a dealership :facepalm:
     
  2. Nov 20, 2014 at 7:46 AM
    #1962
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    I can answer this, it is a resounding NO. I run RP as my fluid for everything and I do not have the bushing. My vibration/growling is terrible. My ECGS bushing will be here tomorrow. Can't wait to put it in and get rid of this shit. I love my Tacoma but I hate the vibration....
     
  3. Nov 20, 2014 at 7:51 AM
    #1963
    tacoholic05

    tacoholic05 Well-Known Member

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    its settled....only way to eliminate vibe is ECGS bushing
     
  4. Nov 20, 2014 at 8:03 AM
    #1964
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    I will come back and agree with you on Monday after mine is installed. :)

    EDIT: Also, I think it is a damn shame that Toyota doesn't acknowledge this problem. Oh well, they are too busy improperly designing brakes and gas pedals to worry about a problem like this right?
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2014
  5. Nov 21, 2014 at 6:02 AM
    #1965
    ECGS

    ECGS Well-Known Member

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    DO NOT RUN ROYAL PURPLE IN YOUR DIFFERENTIALS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Amsoil ok
    Mobil one semi ok
    Red line ok
    OK being I have not noticed adverse effect from their use but also see no benefit.

    Regular Dyno oil better and cheaper then above products for differentials.

    Water, contaminants, and heat kill differentials. Changing your fluid often will aid in diff life far more then the product selected.

    Running a regular dyno oil and changing it every 50k or every time the diff gets submerged is the best thing for you differentials and it does not cost a fortune. Recomend:
    Lucas 85w140 temps above 0 degrees
    lucas 80w90 temps consistently below 0

    If you do not agree about Royal Purple go drive your vehicle for 15 minutes and then drain the oil and feel it in your hand. It will be extremely thin and feel like slick water. It is detrimental to the gear as it provides no cushioning and will not cling to bearings and gears like dyno will. I personally believe that Royal Purple is the worst gear lube product on the market.

    Chase@ECGS
     
  6. Nov 21, 2014 at 8:42 AM
    #1966
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. I'll change it all this weekend when I get the bearing done.

    Also, I got the ECGS bushing today. I'm impressed with the quality of everything in the kit. Well done and thank you for creating a solution to our problem.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014
  7. Nov 22, 2014 at 6:00 AM
    #1967
    alpinebob

    alpinebob Well-Known Member

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    Any thoughts on the best,(or good) E P lubes for 08 Taco Diffs?
    About 5 K Mi ago I changed to a synthetic 90-140 and added LS additive as recommended by the auto parts store all was well until now I get "shuddering" when I drive slowly and turn the wheels ,as in parking) ?
    Taco has 110K Miles.

    Thanks All,

    bob
     
  8. Nov 22, 2014 at 6:10 AM
    #1968
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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    ICONS Front & extended Rears DAKARS LR UCAS Wheelers Super Bumps F/R Homersoshi & Bumper insert, Ultra Gauge, Wet Okole seat covers, AFE air filter, Truxedo tonneau cover, LED White Cluster swap by yosh2000, Audio upgrade, ECGS Bushing, rcbs204 Lighted 4x4switch, Bullaculla trailer harness relocate bracket SOS Concepts IFS skid & sliders Anti- Dark RedLine Hood Struts Matt Gecko Bed Lights BHLM Depo Tailights Fog light anytime mod ABS cancel mod Rear diff breather mod Brake light 35watt mod Relentless u bolt flip Mobtown Recovery Bar Sound deadener doors rear wall
    Read post #1979 from ECGS ^^^^^^^^ its probably 3 posts back..GL
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2014
  9. Nov 22, 2014 at 6:21 AM
    #1969
    alpinebob

    alpinebob Well-Known Member

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    Installed the ECGS bushing last week, vibs gone ! Only problem I had was driving in the new bushing without (at first) having a driver long enough to apply enough force to get the last 1/4 inch driven in. I tried a length of 1.25 PVC but it absorbed too much energy to do it, I then replaced it with steel pipe with a flat washer welded on the "business" end and a socket inside as a centering guide and a few smart blows with a 2# hammer finished the job. I noticed in the ECGS video the use of a driver but it did not seem to be emphasized that it takes some pretty good hits with a well fitted guide tool.
    Am I the only one who had this "glitch" ?

    bob
     
  10. Nov 22, 2014 at 7:02 AM
    #1970
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter

    Hey Bob, I assume your DC is a long bed (LB) based on your description of the shuddering. If you do have a LB, then you do have a LSD. Our LSDs are picky both with oil type and additive brand. Many people have had problems with synthetic in them, so stick with a non-synthetic. And I've tried many different LSD additives that didn't work (either from day 1 or after 1k miles). The only one I guarantee will work properly is the Equa-Torque:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Nov 22, 2014 at 6:38 PM
    #1971
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    I got the ECGS bearing installed today and decided to go with Valvoline 85w140 (only oil in that weight available to me other than Royal Purple). I still have the vibration at the exact same speeds but it is not near as bad as it was. There must be something else bad. Who knows? I wish I was one of the people that had their issue cured 100%. Oh well. I will try to list the install/removal tools in the for sale section soon. If anyone is interested in those I will sell them for $75.00 with free shipping to the lower 48.
     
  12. Nov 24, 2014 at 6:55 AM
    #1972
    alpinebob

    alpinebob Well-Known Member

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    Thanks 05Moose, actually i have the short bed four door model Taco.
    I will get equa-torque and give it a try.

    bob
     
  13. Nov 24, 2014 at 7:08 AM
    #1973
    tacoholic05

    tacoholic05 Well-Known Member

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    Chase, so now you have me dumping the RP this week and putting another brand in. Question though: my book states 80w90 but you are saying only use it when temps are below 0. Is that just for Lucas or all brands?
     
  14. Nov 24, 2014 at 9:45 AM
    #1974
    05Moose

    05Moose Middle-Aged Member

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    '05 4x4 DC LB SR5 (LSD & Tow Pkg), Timbrens, AAL, 5100s (1.75), Owned: 12/3/04 Mods: Fog, Map/Dome Light, Illuminated 4wd Switch, Washable Cabin Air Filter

    Then check to see if you have a LSD sticker on your rear diff (see link in my sig). Not sure there were any SR5 packages on the short beds that had the LSD (unlike on the DC LB). It's just that the problem you described was exactly what you'd experience with the LSD.
     
  15. Nov 25, 2014 at 7:35 PM
    #1975
    nj636

    nj636 Hub Master General

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    I have always used Lucas brand gear oils with no problems
     
  16. Nov 26, 2014 at 4:40 AM
    #1976
    303tacoma

    303tacoma Bad Karma is a Bitch

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    I received my bushing yesterday i hope it gets rid of the diff. vibe
     
  17. Nov 26, 2014 at 6:09 AM
    #1977
    alpinebob

    alpinebob Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, 05moose, will check and advise today.

    bob
     
  18. Nov 26, 2014 at 9:08 AM
    #1978
    alpinebob

    alpinebob Well-Known Member

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    06moose, took your clue and checked my 08sr5, it does have the L S D sticker on the rear diff.

    Thanks, alpinebob
     
  19. Nov 26, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #1979
    BenWA

    BenWA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Did you replace the CV axle too or just the bearing? If not, could be that the CV axle shaft was worn/scored where it inserts into the diff.

    Also, check your wheel bearings.
     
  20. Nov 28, 2014 at 4:17 PM
    #1980
    tacoglock19

    tacoglock19 Well-Known Member

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    It was the rear u-joint on the drive shaft. I replaced them both (front and rear) this morning since I had to drop it anyway. Easy as pie. Truck is like brand new. I threw more money at it than I should have but the ECGS bearing did help tremendously. One of the bushings on the back joint had no needle bearings left in it. It never occurred to me to check them until I got under it to grease them. I moved the drive shaft back and forth about 1/4 of an inch and knew immediately what had to be done. Oh well. $40.00 and 2 hours of my time this morning and I am running smooth again.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2014

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