Ask a Plumber.

All wore out playing carpenter. Did ya get it?

 

only through the crawl space. Very tight area too.

 

If you can get ahold of two more of those nuts that are holding the valve to the fixture, you could jam them together at the top of the threads and use them to back up your wrench on the cartridge.

 

Or a strap wrench can be used over threads on top.

 

never thought of a strap wrench. Good Idea. But why in the heck is that thing so tight in the first place?

 

Idk why it's so tight. I do mostly commercial with a little residential these days and I know there's a crapload of brands out there. Wouldn't surprise me if it's left thread.
I had to replace a high dollar shower valve because I couldn't get cartridge out and I had the replacement. House was soft water. It just seized up.
What brand is it? Usually a name somewhere on spout ,drain pop up,or on body underneath.

 

that's the problem. No name or number stamps etc..anywhere. I have taken the spout off and looked inside. I believe the sinks are the same brand but they have no markings either.

 

I have an 28 year old stop valve as the main shutoff to my indoor water supply. This will not shut off completely and so I'm going to replace it with a full port ball valve w/waste. My issue is with the same aged pressure regulator just above it. It is a Watts 25AUB and is still verified running at 50psi. I have had zero problems with it. The raw pressure into the house and on my outside sprinkler line is 113 psi.

Should I replace the pressure regulator at the same time or do these things go on forever? Do you recommend a make and model? I am comfortable sweating copper/brass and have done lots of it.

Thanks.

 

Leave it if it's working. Good call on the ball valve, gates are terrible

 

Thanks. Don't think I ignore your advice but I found they are only $67 at Lowes and the new one is lead free. I thought they were like $300 or something. I decided to replace it anyway. Thanks again though. I'll make sure I get the waste port up on the valve. ;-)

 

You have a top shelf prv. Or had . They are rebuildable also.

 

So I put it in today. This in another Watts 25AUB.

Question: If my solder joints are going to leak are they going to do that now or wait until I'm gone? I've done many solder joints in my life so I don't know why I'm nervous about these. I watched the solder flow around the entire joint each time and used new flux.

 

A solder joint that's good now should be good forever.
The exceptions I've seen to this are if you "capped" the joint and didn't get the solder to penetrate into and all around the joint.

If you did manage to cap the joint, shaking the whole assembly around a bit should expose that pretty quickly.

 

Excellent. Now I can shut off my water completely when working on the plumbing. Thanks.

 

Looks nice and clean.

Is that your water service penetration for the house?... if so, where do they put your water meter?.. or is that a well supply?

 

Betting the water meter is outside in a meter pit with a yoke.
That's also probably where he had to shut the water off to replace the valve.

 

this.

our meter is outside but we have a handy shutoff lever in our front bedroom closet. makes doing plumbing work ALOT easier if it's before a sink/toilet shutoff valve

 

I need some advice from plumbers, please.
My mother-in-law purchased a house 3 years ago that was built in 1988. The original plumbing inside the house is gray polybutelene. She's had a couple of leaks over the past two months. Because of this, she would like to replace all of the plumbing. The 64K question, CPVC or PEX?
Before anyone says copper, this is a retired woman on a fixed income. She's financially comfortable but very frugal.
Appreciate all serious input.

 

Pex.
More like uponor. Wursbo.