Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah, it's nothing special. I'd run it on a creeper, but not on a desert truck application. You'd have to run a massive hiem, an even bigger bung, for what? Something that should only be adjusted once really. Not worth it for any of my applications.

 

So it's tied into the cab cage in at least the 4 places I can see and all level with the bed line. Are those going to be the only connectors from interior cage and bed cage? If so that's pretty stealth and low profile.

 

appreciate the input guys. like you said it's not worth the risk for something you really only need to do once...

the hiem boots are probably a good idea until they tear, then it's worse right? I live in an area that sees lots of temp swings and snow. be nice to keep all the road garbage off the hiems so i'm not changing them often.

 

Yeah no top tubes to the bedcage

 

Ready for Glamis

 

The guy at imperial cycle center scratched them, he said he could scratch what ever date he wanted

 

Mounted up limit straps







Going to Glamis today to pickup some paddles for Friday, anyone out there?

 

Those welds doe

 

Stacking boogers

 

why such long straps?
you really need double straps? or just getting sick gnar points?
why not running tab on arm for straps?
when the strap gets slack isnt it going to slide back and fourth on the bolt?
eventually causing other issues with bolt or strap?

 

another noob question on angling a shock mount.
is it ok to have a mount angled a bit to allow for articulation in a particular direction? The shock sees up and down forces during normal use, but also needs to flex out to the side a considerable amount during articulation. Currently I have had to thin the outer mount tab to allow enough room to flex the heim joint

Id like to angle the top mount like this awesome drawing so I dont take as much meat out of the tab and keep things strong. Is this going to mess up the heim joint and/or shock top cap? Thanks for any advise.

 

It won't hurt the heim any, and you can use misalignment spacers to get more out of it. If you are that worried about it mount the shock side ways.

 

thanks for the quick response. I've been given the opportunity to re-do my shock mounts as of yesterday lol

 

If these cage tie-ins pull off the frame, not only do I quit but I'll be fucking dead lol.

 

Bad design or bad welds? Make sure you have enough bump stop, when shock are fully compressed the turn into solid rods and tend to tear mounts off...

 

Those looks bombproof, stronger than the frame by a fair bit.

 

3/16 lol. I'm stoked on how they came out. Going to be slinging tube tomorrow. Holp to have most of the cage done. Single cabs have got it made when it comes to a cage lol. Wanted to do a 2" cage, but the reality of it is, it's a small truck, not heavy, and I'm not racing it ever. 1.75 will do just fine.

 

It was a bad weld and a underestimate of the forces involved on my part. I knew that weld was shotty, but expected it just needed to be strong in compression. The banana shaped 1/4" plate shows how much I was wrong lol

My bump stops are pretty conservative and I never felt a hard hit. It looks like the rear support gave away under rebound and it fatigued with cycling until it ripped along the pivot point.

 

Picked up a brand new set of these badboys cheap. Just thinking if I want 33x12.50x15 or 35x12.50x15 ???

 

I miss being 6 lug.