Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

I mentioned that solid bearing to the driveshaft shop here in town
They said its not a good idea and the better way to go is to go with a different carrier bearing entirely. DMZ did a project with one and used a Chevy carrier bearing so there is one that matches our shaft. You could also just rebuild the shaft with a better bearing also. Bottom line is that these are a big issue in these trucks.

 

Any carrier bearing with a 1 1/2" internal diameter and mounting holes that will match will work, there are many out there that will fit you just have to look up spec's... There is a Ford Ranger one that is a popular swap...But ultimately they are all a rubber donut wrapped around a bearing = if your shit ain't right due to a lift you will continue to blow them up. Another cool trick is to buy a new carrier bearing a fill it internally with silicone to firm it up and strengthen it.

There is nothing wrong with the solid bearing other than it gives you zero room for vibration errors in your set up due to no cushioning that is why driveline shops don't recommend them because customers will complain about vibes. There are some big benefits such as it does not transfer lateral movement into your t case output shaft and u joint that a flexible carrier bearing will. The solid bearing is incredibly stronger and more durable you just have to put the work into actually making a Tacoma drive shaft vibe free. I played with my angles for a couple hours today and eliminated my 25 mph vibe already. I 'm holding off on tweaking my axle shims because I ordered new u-bolts ....I'm lazy and don't want to take everything apart twice

 

...and for the free mod of the day I had the usual rubber gas line for my diff breather extension and as I was cleaning the garage found a stainless braided hose that came with my washing machine...got curious and cut the end off and whaddya know...perfect ID for the diff breather fittings

The fuzzy bit going to the bottom of the bad is a spring that holds the slack and extends with droop.

 

Drove up to see the huge Sequoia trees

 

How much lift is on your truck and I need some light bar mounts for the OEM roof rack you wanna sale me a pair?

 

Did you get a custom skid made? Any closer pics?

 

No custom skid plate just the ones that came with it. And here should be a little better view. I can take one tomorrow of more under it if want

 

BDS brew!

 

BDS kit is pretty sick!!!!

 

Very!

 

Yea, I'd like to see what it looks like from the trans fwd. I'm curious how BDS does it with out the bars that connect from the DB to the cross member. Thanks!!

 

Jon, you can just go on the BDS web site and download the complete installation instructions to see everything in detail I actually posted the link for it a couple months ago. The skid is a tiny little thing. Their rear drop bracket is almost identical, cross members cuts are the same etc. BDS just doesn't add the rear support bars ...but have you ever pulled yours off and looked at the bushings ? I don't think they do a damn thing ? Mine are coming off the second I put my skid on.

You should try what I did and just get some big pieces of cardboard or poster board and masking tape and mock up your own skids. The PC drop brackets have threaded inserts in the bottom, the only tricky part is that the front diff hangs a bit below the front cross member so you have to put a small step in the bottom skid.

 

Looks just like this...The skid plate ties the drop brackets together. Also the rear drop bracket is bolted to the crossmember. Not sure if PC does this or not. And actually the skid plate is pretty beefy imo. It weighs a ton, dropped it on a rock first time wheeling it. Only left a good scratch

 

Pretend the shot is an upskirt, this is more of a side boob.
I'm too lazy to dig through a install PDF and I can't fap to them.

 

Just curious, have you ever seen the actual Pro Comp skids ? This will give you a really good idea of what you would need to build :





Edit - weird but although there are pics of these everywhere the one in their current catalog looks very different ? :

 

I've done everything to remove PC from my truck outside of the DB and spindles which are the strongest part but also the ugliest. I have a great fabrication shop and a friend who owns it 3 miles from me (Avid)

Now why would I go and give PC my money?


I'm hoping I can get a bumper here come tax time and after that I will design a skid and armor all the way back. Besides I need you to get your skid on so I can see how eliminating the support bars does. I'm not sure if you wheel a lot though.

 

Was not implying that you give Pro Comp any monies just showing you the size and shapes that are already made for PC DB's ...hence why I said it will give you an idea of what youneed to build. The mounting points are the mounting points so no matter who builds them when you lay a piece of metal from tab A to slot B it is going to come out looking very very similar. Mine is going to be wider at the bumper basically full width of the bumper cross member tapering down to the width of the DB. You should try out the cardboard idea it is a great way to mock it up.

If you would read that BDS manual you would see that they only use rivet nuts into the bottom of the rear cross member ( I think the PC hardware is much stronger ) and they appear to get along just fine without the rear support bars...

 

Does PC or Fabtech have boxed cross members?

 

What bumper is that?