This will require some thinking, but I'm going to make it work.

About the deepest I can go with my box in my 2014 D.C. is 6.5" (if you want to keep the plastic). The picture below shows my SKAR audio VD-10 which has a top mount depth of 4.6" and it just barely fit in the box. With the x-max on the woofer, there's no way I could go any bigger.

 

I would take the rear plastic off the seat. Allows for more excursion of the sub, and helps the sound some.

I made my next big purchase with this setup, a 250A alternator. I got it from Bill at Marion Bumper2Bumper (a vendor on here). He had it drop shipped from the place he has the alternators wound and built, BnR Electric in Van Nuys, California. Got it from them a week after I ordered it. So a week from Cali to Canada isn't bad. They also put a value of $100 on the parcel so I didn't have to pay customs, packed it really well with stiff foam cut to cradle the alt. so it didn't get damaged in shipping.


I put it through a stress test yesterday. It snowed up here, and the temp was near freezing most of the day, yes, snow in Canada in September. Anyways, I had the heater on full blast, the HID projectors on, the stereo on full tilt with my new tune, pumping out everything from Five Finger Death Punch to Lil' John, lots of bass heavy tracks, and at idle of 560rpm, I was seeing voltages from 11.9-12.4 volts. At cruise of 1500rpm, a solid 13.5V, no drops or sags in output. And I have my Optima YellowTop 1000CCA battery. No issues, bass was strong, if not stronger than my old 90A alternator that came with the truck, which was dying, on bass hits, voltage would drop to 10.4V. I'm impressed with the alternator, it covers my butt on power, and gives the amps, which draw 160A max, all the power they need. I'm a happy camper.


Install thread here.

 

nice , i didn't know you finally bit the bullet and got an HO alt
Now its time for more power

 

Yup, finally got the HO alt., because my stocker was dying a slow death. At 90A, the stocker did good for a long time, but it's nice to have 12V at idle and 13.6A at a cruise of around 12-1500rpm. I can really bump the system loud in all conditions now, and not worry about killing my battery either.

 

is that alt complete bolt on?

 

yes, direct bolt on.

Remove the old in w the new

 

Yup, as said, direct bolt on. Picked it up from MarionBumper2Bumper, who is a vendor on here. Quality unit.

 

Have you measured your min/max voltage levels at idle and under stress / at times of acceleration, by any chance?

 

At normal usage, just the heater and radio on low, I get 13.4V at idle of 560rpm, and 13.7V around 2000rpm. Under heavy load, it drops to 12.0V at idle, and 13.2V at 2000rpm. It's a stout unit, and I'm happy with the performance.

 

What battery do you have again? i wouldn't have thought under your heavy load for the voltage to drop to 12v at idle

 

Nice. I haven't decided on an alternator for my current build yet. On my last one I used a Mean Green 240a and I was not happy with it. I think the problem was the regulator but after a heavy current draw came to an abrupt end or after the first pull of accelerating from a complete stop, the voltage would spike above 15v occasionally. It was an annoyance because one of my amplifiers would go into protect mode for a split second from having the voltage increase too much. This next setup should be much more resistant to a problem like this, but I'm thinking a 320a alternator might be in the plans...

 

Optima YellowTop 1000CCA battery. I have a lower rpm speed than the Sports or Offroads, which are around 700rpm, because I only have an SR5.

 

i know of a very stout and high quality 370a . It has a BUTLOAD at idle and under 2k rpm

 

brand / model? I figure I'll spend about $600 - $700 on an alternator for this setup.

 

I'm working on getting pricing,
But there are a few companies. Mechman, Singer, excessive power, DC power etc. I just have to see who's willing to play ball. i did make a thread about it last year this time but " it was the wrong time of the year. Then another person made and marketed his own rewound or rebuilt ones here on tw so i said f it.

 

Yeah, I was looking into Singer but a colleague of mine said that he and his shop employees have had some experience with that brand of alternators and wouldn't recommend them. I've heard good things about DC power, never heard of Mechman.

 

Never heard a single bad thing about singer AT all. Not stringer but Singer.
Most of the people i know run 1-6 of his units in total on 50-100kw of power builds

 

what is the alernator for

 

Well, my stock alternator was 90A. My amplifiers draw 160A at full power. Notice the problem? I killed my stocker after about a year. It would drop voltage in the truck to 10.4V on serious bass hits, and the amps would go into protect mode. The alternator provides the amperage that the amps need, and still has enough to charge and power the battery and the rest of the truck. That way you're not killing batteries every 6 months, and needing a boost every time you shut off the vehicle. It's a simple process of replacing the alternator, I made a thread about it here. That's on a 4.0L V6, I understand the alternator is on top of the engine on the 4-cyl trucks, so it's even easier. Hardest part was wrestling with a new belt, trying to get it to go and stay on.

 

Subd