Long Travel BS Thread

Which of the two axle seals causes fluid to leak out? Is it the inner one in the housing or the outer one on the axle shaft? I'm starting to get gear oil all over the tire and need to fix it before superstion!

 

Just get the kit and do them all. Might as well do bearings while you are in there. https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/rear-axle-parts/rear-axle-service-kit-2000-04

 

ive always just replaced the ones that seat into the diff that the axle shaft slides through. thats all i have ever replaced and no problems. just when you slide the axles back in make sure to not rub them on the seals.

 

I just did a whole seal kit and wheel bearings 3500 miles ago. Guess I just gotta do it again

 

I think I just used cheap parts probably why it failed

 

Does that marlincrawler kit use actual Toyota parts?

 

this is what i did on my old p/u. outer seals should be all you need. just be reeealy careful reinstalling them.

 

I have some 16" 450

 

question for you guys. what do you think?
my truck is 4x4 camburg long travel currently. im tired of breaking diffs. have blew 4 ring/pinions/spider gears and im SO DONE WITH IT.
so time for a solid axle swap up front.

my ass is so flexy right now with the SUA with 50ts and 13 inch shackles and i want maasss travel but i also want a low center of gravity. but i want to be a couple inches higher than i am now since i want to run 37s and ill be.
i thought about swapping the axle under the 50ts but then id just have the same amount of travel i had before but lifted higher. can i add leafs to my pack to increase the arch to get more lift? or should i be looking for more of a custom pack??

do you know why solid axle guys run spring over axle instead of under for more bump travel and lower COG?
i know some of these questions need to be for the solid axle section but wanted to ask.

 

You could get your springs re arched to get more lift. Don't run leaf springs up front. Run coilovers and link it. Build it at full stuff and go from there... the other option is to get an 05+ front diff and stay IFS. They are much stronger than the old ones. There's one for sale cheap in the 2ng gen classifieds right now.

 

thats really the only negative i see though... right?

i am definitely going to link it! im going to do it all myself and its going to take me years but dont have the coin to pay someone else to do it. and ill have another play toy to hold me down until then.


05+ front diff... hmm then id need custom cvs and custom mounts. probably a custom oil pan since the oil pan is molded around the front diffs on 1st gens. after spending 1000s on custom cvs and still be IFS... id almost rather solid axle it?

i was going to TTB beam it and keep 4wd and just go balls out. because i like to do 70 through woops then crawl through retarted things.

but i decided i am getting a SR1 Rhino, my dad has one and i already looked at one and should have it in my hands by monday. so ill have my go fast and huck shit rig, and my go slow crawl to insane places rig.
i kinda decided having 1 rig to do both isnt really feasable....

what do you think?

EDIT: and getting the 50ts re arched, wouldnt that have a CRAZY amount of arch then? since they have so much arch to begin with? should i consider adding springs after the rearch to help it hold its arch?

 

but i like them alot lol. they have so much flex its ridiculous. LOL

1k and they are yours
you know you want them!!!! they have a special paint on them that allows them to flex more than normal 50ts

 

yes i believe you are correct. the thing is i cant get myself to swap the axle under the springs and gain like 6 inches of lift knowing thats all its doing and im not getting more travel out of it. it just seems like the negatives WAY out weigh the positives with just swapping the axle under the springs?
positive-more ride height
negatives- more ride height
maybe ill just keep it spring under and re arch and try to get away with running 37s with a real low COG. i guess theres only 1 way to find out.............

 

bedsides are being ditched for tube fenders. i already rub the bedsides on rocks with the wheeling i do with LT, couldnt imagine how long they would last with a solid axle LOL.
no u bolt flip (i need this bad, every time i take off my u bolts i have to cut them off and get new ones)

i would love to keep it spring under. thats what i want to do. but it just sits too low for me for when i go solid axle.

and yes it would give me AT LEAST 6 inches of lift (more than what the kit already gives you, like 3 in) the leaf pack alone is 6 inches thick. put that boy above the axle tube and you got way more than 6inches of lift,lol.

i just want 2 more inches of lift or so and i want to keep my current springs. LOL.

the only way id swap to spring over is if i could get more travel out of it somehow.

50ts are pretty tall, but my truck doesnt sit stick bug at all right now because of 2 full size spares, full cage, and over 300 lbs of tools and spare parts right over the rear axle.
its settled probably 2 inches since ive long traveled the rear. i can get frame height when i get home tonight. and like you said i dont want crazy bro lean haha

 

Running Chevy 63's vs my SUA deavers on my DMZ kit will pull similar travel numbers so that isn't really a concern. The big difference is where the frame of the rig is at at full stuff, ie SUA has more up travel and SOA has more droop.

In Moab last year I got hung up on my frame/belly a lot because my frame/belly is so much lower at full stuff compared to IDtrucks who is running chevy 63's SOA. He didn't drag as much because he hit his bumps before the frame hit the rocks.

An SUA/IFS rig at full stuff is like a low rider compared to an SOA/SA rig at full stuff.

The trade off though is that when IDtrucks would hit his bumpstops, the tire can't stuff anymore so the body starts to get off camber. My SUA can keep stuffing since I have more up travel.

This was evident when we came down High Dive on Behind the Rocks. We had to pull IDtruck's seat out of his ass after he finished that obstacle because he got pretty close to flopping. I came down right behind him with no worry at all and my cab stayed pretty level through it compared to his.


As far as the clearance loss from the springs being under the axle, that has yet to be an issue for me. They don't really hang much lower than the pumpkin does and they are tucked close to the tires so I never touched my leaf packs in the rocks.

 

thank you so much for your input!
appreciate it.

 

Your trucks a little more than that man lol

 

X1,000,000

 

trucks looking good anthony! did you have any clearance issues with those 35s?