Toyota Oil Filter (Made in Thailand) vs. the competition........

Looking at them now. You're right about the base.

 

There's an Amsoil efficiency comparison chart floating around on other sites. Here it is.

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The Toyota filter should be used if concern about Warranty issues is important since there can be no claim by Toyota that an inferior filter was used. The capacity of the filter as vaguely implied by the element square footage and weight is irrelevant unless you intend to use the filter well beyond the suggested oil change interval. Even if the element weighed ten times a much, it would not necessarily filter fine particle better. The Toy filter simply does not filter fine particles as well as a Hastings or Purolator Pure One or a number of other filters as evidences by the visual contaminants in the oil during a regular oil change duration. The actual specs for how much debris is captured for each pass of the oil at each micron size from one micron up is not available for most filters but is for the Hastings and Pure One. If the difference is not apparent to you, throw on a new Toy filter for a day after your oil has become dark using the Toy filter for 4-5K. Then throw on a Hastings filter for a day. Empirical. Nevertheless, even this visual evidence of contaminants does not necessarily correlate with more engine wear. The only unquestionable position is to avoid Fram filters that are so poorly made that the element is sometimes detached. Also, Fram does not seem to know in their database which cars require an anti-drain back valve and the absence of one on some vehicles means the engine partially loses prime every time it is shut down. Most people will not notice that their oil pressure light stays on longer when starting. The capacity of a filter that influences operation of the bypass filter can be of concern to people that want to run their oil for an extended period of time. The attempt to do this is a false economy because when the additives are added to do this, the cost becomes comparable to buying discounted synthetic oil at Costco on sale. Recycled oil is most often put to lesser uses so the desire to use less does have an environmental aspect to it even when synthetics are being used.

 

Of course an Amsoil filter is going to be on top of THEIR OWN chart.

 

What a great write up. Thanks Chris.

 

i used the orange fram filters from walmart on my 1st gen for 300k miles with no problems.

just saying.

i use the toyota filter on my 2nd gen now.

vw beetles didn't even have oil filters back when they were made. the early ones. they just had a metal screen inside the bottom of the crankcase that you cleaned out during an oil change.

i'm not so sure what brand of filter you use even matters to be honest. the main thing is change the oil and filter at least every 5000 miles. your piston rings will be worn out and you will be burning through oil alot before the engine fails due to the brand of oil or brand of filter that you use.

 

Ditto, used Fram on my 1st gen too.
Seeing what is inside them from Chris's write up got me thinking to use the OEM ones. I found a good price on them by the case of 10. So, I figured, why not?

 

Just tried the K&N for the first time as it was on special at O'Reillys with 5qts of Royal Purple. Wishing I would have used a Toyota filter now.

 

I come from the neon world (www.neons.org). Most of what I've seen relates mostly to that car/engine. However I've met some very insightful engineers as a result. I didn't read the whole thread, I've been through doing this myself 10+ years ago for that forum as well.

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/

This is a resource that we used. Most people don't realize that there are only a few oil filter manufacturers in the world. Things change and change often.

I'll use what I know, Mopar, their filters have been bid out many times over the years. If there is old stock laying around, it might be from an old Manuf. or a new one. Usually one can tell the Manuf. by the holes on top of the filter, or the general construction. I know I can tell a champion labs filter by looking at the top of the filter.


Along those same lines... the engineers I know (They raced, they wanted to know as much as they could..) did flow tests, particle tests etc.. There were better filters to use then Mopar, one constant was the purolator Pure one (concidently, the same filter listed in this thread elsewhere for the Toyota), Mobile 1 and K&N were not as high on the list... One of the other best filters? The Champion labs STP/Champion/Bosh filter. Low cost, good filtering, good construction.

You can take it for what its worth.. my info, while somewhat dated, is what I still use. I have both Purolator Pure one filters, Wix (and by way of that Microgaurd(( Orileys house brand is now Wix too)) and I'll buy the STP/Champion labs filters when I can (I still have a Neon or two in my stables, makes it nice not having to get two different filters!)

Just adding what info *I* have learned over the years to the collective.

 

This kind of reminds me of that joker who claimed to be a fram rep.

 

Not sure if this has been tested/compared, but I would like to see a comparison of the Toyota OEM filter to the oversized filters such as the M1-109 and Wix 1516 which are a direct fit to the Yotas. They are roughly an inch taller, but seeing that the Toyota filters have a lot more filtering media, I'd be interested to see if the filter media provided by the taller filters would be roughly the same or more.

 

You want me to send you a couple of the bigger Wix filters to bust open? Specifically 1516 and 1512. Same thread pitch and gasket diameter as OEM, so 'technically' speaking falls under the OEM replacement specs.

 

Sounds good. I did a little more research on the 1512, which I have not used (I use the 1516). The 1512 is indeed a lot taller, but unfortunately does not have a bypass valve, even though all other specifications are the same except for a nominally higher burst PSI.

I will send ya the 1516 and M1-209. The only difference from the Wix website between the 1348 (the 'stock' filter) and the 1516 (the bigger one) other than height is the nominal micron rating, which is 21 instead of the 1348's 15. The only thing I understand from this is that is does not filter particles that are less than 21 microns thick.

I got bored.. some other folks out there suggested the 1515, 1512, and 1068. Don't bother with those.

 

Hmm, so even though the 1516 is larger, it doesn't seem to filter as well (according to Wix's website). That would bust a lot of theories about the larger filter doing better. Even though it technically can filter more, it doesn't because the material doesn't filter >21 microns.

The unusual thing is the beta coefficient...er, ratio is the same, meaning both filters are rated to be 50% efficient at filtering particles 6 microns and 95% efficient at filtering particles 20 microns.

Interesting article about "nominal" micron rating vs beta ratio filtration measurements.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1289/oil-filter-efficiency

If beta ratio is the true measurement on the Wix website then both filter equally as efficiently. One just has more filter material.

All this being said, I will probably go ahead and get the Toyota filters from now on.

 

Just my two cents...oem BMW filters in their M line of cars are actually Mann filters. That's all they will put in the cars when they get serviced at the dealer. Castrol Professional OE fully synthetic and Mann filters.
Source: best friend is a BMW tech.