Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

Sub'd if i ever get the courage to cut wires on my truck. Excellent write up. I "feel" like even i could do this. But I'll wait.

 

i have yet to do this mod maybe this weekend..

when i first saw this mod back in the day i didnt want to do it because i was too afraid to void my warranty...

 

You are only really going to "hurt" something with the locker if you engage it when you have a spinning wheel. And you will notice pretty quickly that it's locked because of the red light on the dash and the truck will feel funny at low speeds like in a parking lot. That said if I were going to put in a switch I would extend the single wire leg of the "Y" cable to the security switch location. Then I would run a single wire back to the relay where I would split it into the "Y" and make the connection to the relay.

 

Get out of here man. I saw you smash sheetmetal on your brand new, bone stock tacoma before you made the first payment on it on a trail built rigs had trouble on and people had to get towed out of. Shit my truck got stuck twice on it you crazy bastard. Lol, afraid to void the warranty indeed. I have a detroit in the new axle btw, and it's pretty cool not to have to mash buttons, but is a pucker factor of twelve on icy roads.

 

sheet metal buffs out, charred remains of the interior not so much. always thought it would be hard explaining that to the warranty administrator. especially if they're like the one at my dealership. NO WARRANTY FOR YOU


edit: thinking about throwing a 14bolt in the rear..not too worried about the ABS, hasnt been working in nearly 3 years

 

I haven't had ABS in years either. Meh. I'm surprised you don't already have a 14 bolt in there. If you can find one out of a CUCV (the chevy pickup) they come with 4.56's and a detroit in them. Plus they are dipped in Carc paint, it's like extra armor.

 

Is there anyway to do this without cutting and adding a relay?

I'm in the same boat don't wanna cut wires at this time.

 

I'm just confused on the violet wire part. I picked up everything I needed to do this over the weekend.

So, for example, do you strip the violet wire like 6" back from the pigtail, and solder in your splice, then use that to go to the relay? Or are you making the violet wire tap into a Y so that you can hit separate pins?

 

It's just a power wire. It feeds the 4wd ecu, so if you cut it 4wd won't work. You can use any keyed hot wire, this one is just convenient. Just tap into it, pretty simple.

 

Yes, you could buy an elocker harness from an 04 taco and run a completely independent circuit leaving all of your stock stuff alone.

 

So I will tap into it, and the tap wire gets split again to be used to trigger the relay anytime the key is on, and I'm guessing what is the 4L circuit to trick the 4xECU into thinking it's engaged?

 

No, the ECU has no idea what is going on. You just need to send power down to the locker somehow. This is a convenient location to get power. It could come from anywhere. The power for the relay trigger comes from the locker button. The relay triggers, sending power from the violet wire through the switch (relay) to the locker motor. When it's locked, the lock indicator switch grounds out, turning on the lock light on the dash.

Edit: I see where you are confused. The power from the violet wire passes through the top of the Y. The bottom of the Y, so to speak, is where you get power. You don't actually need to build a physical Y. You could use a tap, an individual wire, to get power from the violet wire.

 

You do need a Y after the tap for pin 2 and 3 on the relay though

 

Don't go confusing him. lol, I'll stay out of it, he'll figure it out.

 

Edit: pretty sure pin 2 is for the coil and pin 3 is for power to the locker once the coil has been pulled in

 

I'm pretty sure that diagram that was left on a tundraforum link is bassackwards... or dude messed up making it.

I'll trust that your directions will provide the desired result, but I'm just trying to understand what I'm doing.

 

Should work as long as you follow the directions. all your doing is taking the elocker controls out of the 4wd computer essentially so that you can use it at anytime. The violet wire just needs to stay to power the 4wd computer still and then needs a Y attached after a tap to provide 12v to the relay coil and elocker solenoid

 

So, what I did... all the above listed in the instructions, less your soldering or double tap. I had 20g solid wire, so I ran a single tap, and a length of wire in the tap twice as long, so it would be able to loop back to the relay.

What I got... success. Works as advertised. Thanks JSI for the write-up, and ya'll for the help.

 

Subd

 

A little late but subbed. Anyone try on a 2012+? Wirings probably all the same