Anything welding

Should be used to huge poles kase

 

Flux and sub arc done. Now time to knock out metal core

 

Fired up my welder for the first time since Jun. trying to get my new Jetta into reasonably good shape and it needed several repairs on the exhaust. Super crappy angle and low ground clearance = No photos, but suffice it to say..My shitty welding hasn't gotten better, but the muffler no longer bounces off the heat shield.

 

Cap on FCAW and metal core was too wide. Gotta try again tomorrow morning. On another note, when welding flat .045 flux core, do y'all push or pull ? I'm getting not so great penetration on my backing strap and I think it's cause I'm pushing and the flux is getting in front of the tip and cause a lack of penetration. Flat of course. Might try pulling it tomorrow.

 

Bump

 

AWS says always push solid, pull flux.

 

Hmmm. Not familiar with flux but I'll bring it up to them tomorrow and see if they'll let me test by pulling.

 

I dunno..

I've always associated Forney with low end stuff.

What about a worm drive skil saw?

 

Bummer dude.

Yeah, that's retarded to buy 50 just so they'll get to your door. As I said, I've used them in the past and found them to be really low quality.

I've got a solid abrasives/bit/holesaw guy in town local to me. Excellent person - I'm his guinea pig - I'll get 4-5 wheels for free whenever I go in, just to let him know how they work for me.

Try Lehigh Abrasives, they may be able to ship quickly to you.

Or go buy a skil saw.

 

I'm on my second. The last one gave up the ghost after a long time cutting circles in plywood (book store bookcases).

Just remember, a worm drive has a bit of a kick so hold it off your work until the blade is spinning

 

Hmm.

I just got a batch of CGW to test out. Like you, I've always used the standard Sait SG-Elastic Type 27 (on single speed 4.5" grinders).

I've never really been a flap disc guy; although the Camel Z3 40 grit that I got as a trial has held up really well. Pretty cool, I've gotten an education about abrasives from a guy that's been in the industry for 40 + years. The thing to look at with flap discs is their backing. Cloth allows full use of the disc; ensuring that it'll wear evenly in order to ensure full usage of the entire "flaps" surface area.

Grit: Cheap manufacturers will often claim that they use a certain grit for their abrasives. Often though, the first few MMs of cut surface will be a uniform grit - then it shifts to basically whatever they have swept off of the floor.

Depressed center, vs. integrated nut. The Camel that I've got in my hand is a good example. A $1.50 grinding wheel with a $1.50 cast nut. They're great if you're in a man lift and can't be bothered to undue the spindle nut, but if you're in a shop - they're largely a waste.

Hardness. Lot's of guys have a wheel that has lasted them a while, and they think it's great. But when it relentlessly chatters and skips on your work surface it contributes to taking out the bearings in your grinder much quicker than a nicer, higher quality wheel.

Of the wheels I've been given to try out, I really like the:

5" x .045 CGW ZA 60 Cut Off

5" wheels are awesome, because they make complex notching on tube (if you're not using a notcher) a hell of a lot quicker.

That CGW flap disc is pretty sweet, and has held up for several jobs. Works great for working with P&O'd steel, and doing finish bevels on tubing.

I'm kind of on the fence about the CGW "Ultra AO" 4.5" Type 27 grinding wheels that I've been given. The sales guy told me that they wouldn't last as long as the Sait's, but that they'd be a much higher quality wheel. Which, I find to be true. No chatter and a very positive feel when you're grinding mill slag, beveling etc. However, they last about 2/3rds as long as the Saits in similar conditions.

Sorry for the long post.. It was just relatively intriguing for me to get some mroe information on abrasives other than a plain sales pitch.

I could talk to the owner tomorrow - I'm sure he'd rush ship if you wanted to.

I'm a little biased, due to the fact that I've got a 7x12 gear driven horizontal bandsaw - and a plasma. Fairly certain that my abrasive chop saw hasn't been used since I cut up some re-bar with it a few months ago. Seriously. If you're planning on doing serious (home or pro) fab work, spend the money on a band saw. Sure, there will be guys who will say they get perfect notches and cuts with a chop saw. That's great. There's something righteous about being able to set your work stop, setting your downfeed - walking away from the saw - and get uniform accuracy within 1/32" over 60 cuts.. (bench that I just built).

http://www.cgwheels.com/home

 

Why're you cutting it up?

 

Don't the relentless ones already have a winch mount?

 

No worries..

Finally had some time to sit down with Bend Tech.. I was having a hell of a time with the assembly feature until this afternoon. Like a mongo, I was overlooking the fact that the entire program is reliant on center/center mating and dimensions. I was mating my pieces edge to edge instead of centered.

Duh.

Think I might dick around with a headache rack tomorrow.

 

Damn that sucks!

I'm happy I didn't got with the DIY now seems to be tons of issues. IMHO I would just hold onto it until someone wants it and just build one your self, though no plasma cutter would be a bitch.

 

Well. My weld test passed the visual test. They're bending em tonight.

Either I officially have a job or get to start job hunting again.

Get to find out tomorrow morning. Not real confident with em tbh so keeping my hopes down for now.

 

I feel for ya, must be the aluminum someone was so obsessed with

Theres a few things I would change about mine, but I kinda welded myself in wioth some shitty welds too though they don't affect it structurally and it aint gonna care about love taps. I'm sure if you make your own it'll be awesome.

good luck!

 

Finally getting the new MM252 dialed in

 

Looks robot welded.

 

I was gonna say the same thing. Check the back of that dudes' neck for a bar code/serial number.