Clutch replacement, help please

Thanks, I got it out this morning. I used probably 3' of extension and a swivel from an impact set. The extensions ended up beyond the back end of the transmission and made gentle downward slope. It took both of my muscles to break it free, but it's out.

Moving on. I'm sure there's another challenge just around the corner.

And, replying to the price . . . I'm all in - parts and tools - for less than $400 including a new flywheel. I figure I'm saving nearly $1000. Plus, I feel like a truck isn't mine until I've taken apart and put it back together.

 

I know you all are watching with bated breath for an update.

The transmission is out. I feel a great sense of . . . . lunch, maybe.

I'll eat then start - remove old pressure plate and fly wheel. I've got a new rear main seal - I'll look at that and decide when I'm in there. Then reassemble. I should be driving by this time tomorrow. Probably the slowest clutch job in the world, but I don't care.

 

cool beans!

 

The new flywheel's teeth are not engaging the teeth of the starter. It nuts are only on finger tight.

Will it sit down further when torqued, or have I got something wrong?

I'm about to take it off and put the old on back on just for comparison. I'll be back . . .

Thanks,

Matt

 

Is the flywheel fully seated on the crank flange?

Also, how are you doing the check? Are you activating the starter gear plunger?

 

Also, don't forget to put loc-tite on the flywheel bolts all the way around on a few threads. The engine side of the crank flange does see oil.

 

I did some loctite. Thanks for the reminder, though.

I'm getting tired. It's making me dumb(er). Should probably quit for the night. I called my dad, who is a much better mechanic than I will ever be. He said that the starter gear moves forward to engage the flywheel, then retracts again. That makes sense. Here's a pic of mine now. I *think* it's ok:


Edit: No, I'm not engaging the starter gear plunger whatever. I don't even know how. I was expecting, incorrectly, that all gears would always be engaged. That was my mistake, I think.

 

Well, as my (crappy) luck would have it, the flywheel is bad. Not for the reason previously questioned, though.

One of the threaded holes that is used to secure the pressure plate has boogered up threads and won't accept a bolt. My next stop is to send a nasty gram to Rock Auto.

 

Will a tap be enough to clean it up?

A bit too late but there is nothing quite like the quality of TGP. I found out the hard way after a garage did the clutch for me and replaced the flywheel. Had to go back in and replace it myself. Documented the differences here:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-builds/259729-tomtoms-03-trd-xtra-cab-36.html#post8678223

Ordered one through Camelback Toyota and saved quite a bit from MSRP.

 

I'm going to try to tap it tomorrow. It's the first thread that's hosed up, though. We'll see . . .

Edit: I asked where you got the TGP, but upon reflection I see that you already answered that.

 

why are you replacing it? if the original is still good, why not re-use it?

 

I don't know if the original is good. It needs to be resurfaced and I'm not sure I can get that done today. There is always the possibility that whoever resurfaces it will tell me it's too thin. And, I may have to add a shim if it's not, which isn't the end of the world, but another item to buy.

It's on the table, though.

 

Ok. Maybe you already answered this but from reading your previous thread it appears you replaced the clutch in May. What caused you to replace it again 7 months later?

Enjoying reading this thread.

 

I didn't replace it in May. I assume you found a thread with me complaining about it then.

I nursed it along until now. I got some time by adjusting the pedal.

I was able to tap the bad hole in the flywheel and re-install that. Clutch and pressure plate install. Transmission back in place. Driveline re-installed. Clutch hydraulics are back in place. Every bolt that I took off has been put back and torqued.

I still need to reattach the electrical connections, put the shifters back, and adjust the pedal. I can't do that for a couple of days because I now have to drive to NC to see my parents and sister.

Thanks, everyone, for the help. I'll post some pictures and an update when I'm done.

 

Yay!

 

That pic is normal. The gear of the starter will only move out and engage the flywheel when it is cranking. Otherwise you would burn up a starter motor REALLY fast at 2000RPM.

 

I'm completely done now. Everything works fine.

My only real concern at this point is clutch pedal adjustment. I've read the documentation on how to do that a dozen times and I just don't really get it. I think it's ok, though. I had my son depress the pedal while I watched the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder doesn't start to move until the pedal has traveled 1/2" or so. The slave cylinder stops before the pedal reaches the bottom. *shrug*

Someone further back in this thread asked what clutch I bought. I bought this kit from Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1523796&cc=1418453 Although, that picture isn't what I got. Mine looks like this: http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/2014-12-26_14_13_17.jpg The seals in that picuture didn't come with the kit. I ordered them separately. The kit came with the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool.

Thanks again for all the help. I'll follow up in my original thread just to close that loop.

 

Did you replace the shifter bushing?

 

I did that a month or two ago. I did everything I could to avoid pulling the transmission out. Finally, I was left with no other options.

The last time I worked on a clutch was over 30 years ago. I was 10 and "helping" my dad with the clutch on his '68 Datsun. As anticipated, this was a hell of a job for me.

 

stupid question, but why replace the shift bushing while doing this? i have to do the same clutch/fly wheel/cyndiler replacement as well.... shoulds like you did a good job. Cheers!