Installing lift, need help!

Rookie question here. I'm in the middle of installing the Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit that I got today. Everything I've read on here has indicated that the 5100's have four settings (0, .85, 1.75, and 2.5, if I recall correctly). I'm about to put the co's on my truck, and I don't see any indications of settings on them, nor any mention of it in the instruction manual. It would appear as though they are infinitely adjustable. Am I missing something? I was thinking of setting them to 1.75, and it just so happens that the thread is already set at 1.75". I assume I should just leave it alone?

 

doesnt the ultimate lift come with the threaded collars ? and the regular 5100's have slots or grooves you move onto, hence the predetermined spacings.. .25 , .75, etc...
if they are threaded just move em to where you want.. truck on a jack with no load on the suspension. and remember each 1/2" of threads is equal to 1" at your wheel.. geometry eh... good luck

 

you will keep the 5100s at the 0, lowest setting. you will get your lift by spinning the adjuster collar on the coil

 

I would start by making about 2-2.5" onches of thread showing above the bigger collar. then measure and go from there.

 

Okay, straight out of the box the collar had 1.75" of thread showing. I've read several posts that indicate that if you set the 5100s to the 1.75 setting, you shouldn't have any issues with bad cv angles and such, so this is where I was wanting to set them. I went ahead and installed them that way, with the 1.75" of thread showing, and after putting my tires back on, it is now sitting 4" higher in the front than what it was before I installed them. Isn't this too much, or am I confused? I didn't realize there was a difference between the threaded co's and the regular 5100s, but shouldn't the measurements be the same?

What should I set them at if I am not wanting to have any issues with cv angles?

 

that lift is only good for 3 inches MAX I thought????... something is up

 

I agree. I thought 1.75" of thread would equate to the 1.75 setting of the regular 5100s, which is what I was after so I don't have any unnecessary problems. However, measuring from the ground, up through the center of the wheel, to the bottom of the fender, it sits 3.75 - 4" higher than before. Since the tires are back on it's kind of difficult to measure, but it looks like I could have adjusted the collar ANOTHER 1.75" up, so there would be 3.5" of thread. Wouldn't this give you another 4" of lift, for 8" total? Something's not right...

Anyone have any ideas what I should be setting this to? I'm not about to drive it until I know it's right.

 

You might email Toytec at support@toyteclifts.com there website says email for instruction manuals. I am sure they could answer this really fast.

PropJet, where you at in Kansas? I am on the Kansas side of KC in Overland Park.

 

I'm down near Wichita (Derby).

I sent a pm to Darrick of ToyTec and am awaiting a response from him. If I don't hear back within the next few hours, I will give him a call.

 

Chris, do you mean to set them so the truck is lifted 3", or to set the them so there is 3" of thread showing on the coilover collar? Right now there is 1.75" of thread showing, but my truck is sitting 4" higher.

 

Here is the response from Toytec support. You'll notice in his response that I did not have the correct instructions for the kit, so maybe some of this is explained in the correct instructions.

"The coilovers are not the same as the 5100s as far as the settings or measurements go, the coil spring is heavier and longer that the stock spring. The 3" lift is an average figure, if you got more lift you should adjust the coilovers down. It sounds like you got the wrong instructions I am attaching the correct instructions. The coilovers in the ultimate kit are set at an average 3" lift, some vehicles get more some less...
The coilovers are not 3 1/2" maximum lift; 3 to 3 1/2" lift is the maximum we recommend depending on weather or not you have a Prerunner or 4WD. There is much more additional thread to compensate for coil sag and additional front weight of a heavy bumper and or winch someone may want to add."

 

Okay, I've moved on to the rear part of the lift, and am stuck on the AAL. I have jack stands cranked all the way up supporting the frame of the truck directly under the rear doors. I've disassembled the u-bolts and removed the nut on the centering pin on the leafs. I have a floor jack under the rear diff, and with it lowered all the way down, only the top leaf has cleared the centering pin. The other leafs haven't budged, and I obviously cannot lower it anymore.

Am I doing something wrong (again)? How does everyone get the rear axle low enough to be able add the extra leaf and shim???

 

Yes the tires were removed, and I disconnected the bracket that holds the brake line to the leaf springs. I admit defeat on this one. Short of using a jackhammer to bust the concrete in my garage, I cannot lower the the axle anymore than it was. I don't know why the springs wouldn't clear the centering bolt. The only possibility I can think of is back when I got the leaf spring tsb, my dealer went out of the way to put on the Canadian springs, insisting the tsb that I referred to them wasn't going to help with the weak springs. Since the tsb was for a "harsh ride" they insisted those springs were softer, despite my proving them wrong. Anyway, I don't know if those springs are different enough to be giving me trouble on this install... just a thought. I'm going to let the shop that mounts my new wheels and tires install the aal.

However, I need some solid advice. The coilovers lifted my my front end 3 3/4". Thinking this is too much, I tried to adjust them down a bit. I say "tried" because those collars were near impossible to move. I have bruises on my hands as a result. Anyway, after much effort, I managed to lower the collars 1/4", which should have resulted in the truck being lowered by 1/2". After bouncing the bumper up and down a couple times, I measured again, and the result was exactly the same as before. It didn't budge one bit! Based on everything I've read on here, I don't know if it's safe to drive or not, due to the geometry being adjusted too much. Here are my questions...

-Is it safe to drive, or will I be doing more harm than good? What would be some signs or indications that it is too high and I have a problem?

-Will driving my truck a few miles help the springs to settle?

-The truck will be getting new wheels / tires and an alignment on Monday. After the alignment, if the coilovers still need adjusted and I (try to) set them down some more, will I need yet another alignment?

 

did you jack up the front end to take pressure off the springs? that helps alot

 

Yep. I even used a pipe to gain a couple inches of leverage.

 

Okay, good news. I went and drove it about 4 miles over pavement and dirt roads. Both the driver's and passenger's side settled a little and are now each sitting 3 1/8" higher than before the lift. The drive felt smooth... no vibrations, shudders or anything. Should it be okay to leave it where it's at, or should I take it down just a little more? I really don't want to mess with those coilovers again, but I also don't want to pay for two alignments.