Power sliding window..again

Working out the kinks in the motor coupler. My last github commit was moving the coupler over to a slipclutch type for safety reasons. The motor and lead screw setup should provide more than enough torque to rip out interior pieces and possibly break glass, so moving to a slipper clutch in the event any part of the mechanism gets jammed up. Printing it looks a bit like Mickey Mouse beyond thunderdome

 

This is what I came up with tonight for a slipper clutch. The orange block has a 6mm hole to accommodate a #10 washer on the back side(recessed into the body, you can't see it in this picture). The 3 #6 screws are used to attach the slipper to the motor coupler, that way I can test a whole bunch of different motors without having to print a lot of different components. The #10-24 threaded rod isn't actually attached to the clutch, instead friction from the spring and washers on the body transfer rotation from the coupler to the shaft as long as the shaft hasn't stalled out. If it has, the coupler can still freely rotate without putting stress on the glass or mounting points. Went through 4 iterations of this, but this version seems to have the lowest part count and works really well.

 

Last update for the evening, promise



This is essentially the entire mechanism. The smaller section of the coupling connected to the motor is the universal motor coupling, it will allow me to just adjust one piece for different motors instead of printing all new assemblies. The block at the end of the rod is what will be mounted to the window, ignore the gear, it's just something I had on hand and will be a captive nut later on. The rod is obviously way short, the real one is nearly 22 inches long, but that's essentially the only difference. Motors are supposed to be here Friday and I'll start testing as soon as they arrive.

 

Keep up the great work guys. I'm very interested to see how things turn out.

 

Yes, this is a BenWa kit. Didn't realize he quit building. Good luck to those working on another. It is actually quite handy on those mid temp days.

 

The big bag of motors just arrived, TO THE BATCAVE!!!

 

TL;DR, the 800 RPM small format gear head motor is amazing and is the one I'm going to be working with. It has M2 mounting screws unfortunately, so that might be a limiting factor.

Here are the motors I'm testing out, all 12 volt
1200 RPM
1000 RPM (might be a dud)
500RPM

URBEST® 300RPM 12V 0.6A High Torque Mini Electric DC Geared Motor High Torque Electric Micro Speed Reduction Geared Motor Eccentric Replacement Output Shaft

300RPM small form factor
800 RPM Small form factor

Here is a video of testing the large format motors
and Here is one of the small format motors.

 

Very nice.

 

Impressive work

 

I like the 800 rpm motor, and I posted on you video that I'd be one of the first to buy a kit from you if you come out with One, or if Timbo does. I'm all for supporting a person's hard work. Don't care for name brand, as long as it works and is durable. Subbed

 

Ups and downs over the past few days.

Good news, the lead screw generates TONS of torque. I was able to pull 16lbs from that little 800 RPM motor before it stalled, so unless your window suddenly starts sticking to the tune of 16lbs of rocks, it should open just fine.

Bad news, the slipper clutch is a total fail. If the screw stalls out at all the clutch comes on and everything works great. But, the amount of resistance that a stalled window exerts on the linear movement isn't enough for the slipper to kick in at a safe level.

Good news, no more slipper, this whole assembly just got really cheap and really simple.

Bad news, I mismeasured and only have 2 inches of working room behind the seats.

Good news, my motor is only 3/4 inch diameter Should have a prototype on the truck by morning!

 

Hope that includes installed pics!

 

So glad I found one, love being able to use it, the rear window that is. This idea looks completly different. Very interested in the engineering people can come up with, bravo. Keep going Scratch, looks good.

 

Cool! Good to hear updates.

How does the driver side window motor work to stop the window from going down? Could that idea be used to stop the sliding window as well?

 

I like the gearmotor with the rack and pinion approach. This method allows the use of limit switches that could turn the motor off and prevent it from continuing to run or starting in the same direction when the window is fully open or fully closed. These could be wired so the motor stays on until the window reaches the limit switch (like the driver's side window auto down feature) but it might be better just to have manual control of the motor with the switch on the dash. Perhaps this could be selectable too. Another advantage to the gearmotor is the window would essentially be "locked" when the motor isn't running because of high gear ratio of the motor. If you would like me to elaborate on any of this just let me know.

 

The idea right now is to have limit switches on the near and far side, the slipper clutch was for just in case the switches don't work because this little setup produces a lot of torque. I think it's going to be ok though because I'm building the motor mount out of thin nylon which should allow it to twist and pop off the mounts before something expensive gives. Pictures tomorrow! I hope!

 

Here's a thought: If you put the motor is a real bind you might be able to fuse it at or near the locked rotor amps. This way if something was binding up, the fuse would blow and could help prevent mechanical damage. Maybe even use a circuit breaker? This would require some destructive testing to get it just right.

 

nothing says fun like fire in the cab I'll be doing some testing tomorrow and the H-Bridge I'm going to be using has configurable overcurrent protection, so this may end up being a non issue. But, I break things for a living, thinking of ways for things to go badly is in the blood.

 

Like your design. If you disable the latch, the window could still be "locked" by having a bar in the track. Would be cool if a locking bar/latch could be flipped back in place when closed. Would require some type of cam and gear I suppose, but I'm no engineer.

 

Glad to hear they're both OK.
>>Wife t boned a ranger today
Ford, Texas or forest?