Home Improvement Today?

Looks more like an espresso table

hiyo

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ-8IuUkJJc

 

I need to buy a 55gallon drum of glue.

 

Latest dilemma:

Bought the house new back in 2012 (finished build in 2011. Master bath door has since began issues with closing. Looking at the striker plate, it has some wear from the latch hitting it. I attempted to adjust the striker plate down in hopes that the latch would catch properly. Problem is, I cannot adjust it down far enough as I've run out of room on the top of the door. Looking at the door when it is closed, it seems to be sagging slightly on the latch side of the door. Is there a way to re-shim this interior door to fix the problem without replacing the entire casing? if anyone knows of a youtube video on how to do so, please provide a link as this is a task I've never done before but doesn't seem too complicated. *fingers crossed it means I have to buy a new tool or two*

EDIT: Door does swing just fine, no binding, no issues with it hitting the frame or anything of that sort, mainly just the issue of it not latching

 

That's awesome.

 

First thing to check is the top hinge. Hinges tend to loosen up a bit, dropping the door slightly. Just take a phillips screwdriver and tighten by hand (I never trust an electric for critical screws).

If this doesn't do it, it's a simple job to remove the striker plate, enlarging the latch hole, and lowering the plate. Carefully mark for the new location of the striker plate, then use a small chisel to outline the cutout on the casing first, then to remove the material. If you remove too much, use heavy paper or cardboard to flush it out. Use a wooden match to fill each of the old holes, as the new holes will be too close to the original holes to trust without that filler. If you're OCD, a drop or two of Elmers wood Glue here will let you sleep at night. Use a 3/32" drill to start the new holes correctly. After the install, a bit of wood filler and touch up paint will finish it out.

 

can't move the plate down any farther, already used that as a solution once. Also already checked the top hinge.

 

I'm not understanding this.

 

I would grab a level and check the jamb.

 

If you have to reset the door it is usually Nat that big of a deal to pull the trim.

 

As far as he could? That's what he said. Still baffled as to what prevents installing the plate where it is needed.

 

the hole in the jamb is nearly where the screw hole for the striker plate goes into the jamb...thus, can't move it down farther as I can't screw the plate into the jamb.

 

If I lift on the door, it will latch, barely and with some force, but it will latch

 

Here's some pics, meant to have them in original post.

Forgive the crookedness of the plate, that was the only way to slide it down last time I adjusted for sag. Other pic shows how far down the latch sits by the plate.



Think filing the striker hole and making it larger could work?

 

Probably poorly hung, or house settling.

Close the door and look at the reveal. (Gap around the outside of the door.) Is it even?

Let's walkthrough one example. Larger gap at the bottom strike side. Remove one side of the bottom hinge. Place some folded smashed cardboard or a penny. Replace hinge check closure.

 

Know there are three hinge doors and two and the range of adjustment and how badly f... A door can be are actually amazing. You can remove, add or even twist hinges ( removing material from only the from or back of the hinge to change the pivot point. Not sure of how to explain it) but checking the reveal will help you determine where to add remove material.

 

Can you replace one of the jamb side hinge screws with one long enough to get into the framing ?

 

Trippy

 

I hope they didn't set the strike plate like that when you bought the house.

 

That's how op tried to compensate for the latch failing to align.