SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

OK, called the mechanic - he said he's confident it's the fuel pressure regulator because when he bleeds back on it, it's in excess of what's "spec" for it. I asked him if the fuel pump could be the culprit instead/in addition, and he said he did some tests on it and fuel pump problems are rare, so he's confident it's not that. I asked him again later in conversation if he was definitely confident it's not the pump and he said yes. I asked if he thought the injector issues were caused/contributed to by the regulator problem, and he said no, cuz it was 2 of them and not all 6. I asked his opinion on replacing bellow boot only vs. whole rack and pinion, and he said depends on how damaged the boot it and how long it's been like that - sometimes can just replace boot pending these things. He's gonna look at the boot seep area to see what he sees, then email estimates on wheel bearing and boot seep issue, but he thought we'd likely be OK to wait til June to do both (plus shocks & struts) if we decide to do ourselves.

Anybody have opinions/thoughts on any of this? It all sounds OK to me, but then again I'm not a mechanic!

 

About time to get the title changed to "Lovemytacolots' build thread"! haha

Yes, the accordian boot is the boot the tech was talking about, that is the same one you are thinking, however yes, if there is fluid in there, then the inner seal for the rack at that side is leaking. you can buy a steering rebuild kit, but to be honest, I would suggest replacing the rack. Even with my experience I have no interest in rebuilding racks. Too much of a PITB.

DING DING DING! We have a winner! I want my cookies now! Hahaha.


As for the correct wheel bearing on RockAuto.com, when you look up "wheel bearing" for your truck, scroll down the list to the Timken bearing that says "Part# Set29. There is a small heart to the right of that item (This indicates the popularity of that item in sales)

 

Thanks Bamatoy! Just pulled up the Rock Auto part - not seeing a heart, but price is $62.79 for wheel bearing and race set, front - is that the right thing?http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118080&cc=1317633

Hmm, I do indeed seem to owe you some cookies - regulator was the call!!!!!

The boot seep thing - I found quite a few forum posts of people complaining that they were poorly made on 1st gen Tacos and wear out fast - do you guys agree? Although maybe it's irrelevant for us - 200K and seems like about anything could go out! And Bama, you're thinking even if the boot seep looks minimal, still go ahead with replacing the whole rack, cuz ANY moisture in there means seals failed, which then means screw the piecemeal approach to addressing leaky seals and god knows what else? Any particular brand recc' for rack & pinion?

Thoughts on this one guys? Can anyone think of anything else that it would make sense to replace, or at least inspect, when all that stuff is apart, and we're at 200K? Obviously he'd look at brakes, but what else would you guys suggest? C'mon, somebody take a stab at this one, I EVEN BOLDED IT, SO YA CAN'T PRETEND IT GOT OVERLOOKED IN MY LONG TEXT HEAVY RAMBLINGS!!! : ) I bet if I put some pizza, beer, and cookies in front of it somehow, I'd get some answers!

 

He said he'll put in a Denso fuel pressure regulator - does that sound like the best brand for this part? We found this site: https://parts.olathetoyota.com/1998toyotatacomaparts.html
and they've got a "toyota brand OEM" one for ~$30 cheaper (by the time you add shipping) than the ~$193 mechanic quoted me for the denso one he'll order, but it's not really worth $30 to me to annoy him w/asking if we can provide our own parts cheaper, UNLESS the "toyota brand OEM" one is better than the Denso one. Anyone know?

 

just be sure what you are seeing within that boot is really PS fluid because mine was split and I thought I had a leak because oil was not dripping but looked to be coming out of the split in the boot but after taking a close look I found the boot had a mix of motor oil and road water sludge in it. I can only guess the boot got split and it got motor oil spilled on it when the PO replaced the oil filter and over time it built up until it filled up enough and started leaking out

until you get under there and pull it back its hard to tell if fluid in it is from the pinion or not unless its redish in color (I believe that's the color of most PS fluid)

never assume anything, mine was fixed with only a new set of boots for $15

 

Thanks Keakar, good info. I especially like the price!

Mechanic just called again and said he found a millimeter long cut in bottom of boot w/oil leaking out. He said because they don't have the special tools to take apart and replace seals only, if they were doing it for us they'd replace the whole rack & pinion w/a MAVAL reman'd one for $600. He thought we could wait til June to address this ourselves if we wanted to.

Keakar, are you saying perhaps our R & P seals are not leaking, because if they were we'd see power steering fluid and not oil leaking? Then if seals aren't leaking, that's when you can get away w/just replacing boot rather than whole R & P? Do you need special tools to do boot only?

Mechanic also said the Denso regulator IS the OEM Toyota one, so I'm crossing that worry off my list and eating the extra $30 to git 'er dun faster than we could get the part we found shipped to him.

He also recc' Bilsteins for shocks, said they'd last longer if we do any off roading. Said waiting til summer to do ourselves seems fine - hurray!

Quoted $388 to do wheel bearing, said that could probably wait til summer to do ourselves too, unless the mild howling noise turns into an awful grinding noise.

99% sure we'll wait and do all 3 items this summer at the same time, along with all the fun goodies like brakes, 4WD/tranny fluid, etc. How often do ya do radiator fluid? And would still love love love any input you guys have on what else to do once all of that stuff (rack & pinion, shocks/struts, bearing) has us to a point where that much stuff is taken apart. Please? Pretty please?

Might Be Ready Tomorrow!!!!!

Although this will be me when we hand over the plastic -

 

im saying before you start thinking you need to fix the steering you need to pull the boot off and see if the steering socket has an oil film on it, if it does then the seals are leaking, if its dry or mostly dry then you probably don't have to fix anything and just put new boots on it to keep the inside clean and dry.

its pretty plain and obvious to see if the seals are bad or not. to get to it crawl under truck, cut off the metal ring clip and pop the big end of the boot off and see what it looks like. when you are done just pop it back on and secure it with a plastic tie strap to hold in in place (that's how you install new ones).

then depending on what you find you can go back later when you have time and the parts you need to make the repairs you need. if its just oily but not leaking I suspect it may not be from the steering but spilled oil from sloppy oil filter changes, because every time you go to replace the oil filter its hard not to spill oil all over the steering there.

I have seen many comments like bamaboy who said if the pinion is leaking just swap it out rather then try to fix it so that would be my suggestion as well if you confirm fluid is leaking from it.

the steering boots are like $7 each and you have to take the tie rod ends off to replace them

 

How about taking a short cut?

Have you ever had to add power steering fluid? If the level has been the same for years and years, then you can pretty much eliminate that need for a new rack and pinion...unless someone has been breaking into your truck, popping the hood and adding power steering fluid

 

Koditten, you really think so? If we're not losing fluid (which we aren't), we don't need new R & P?

Changed PS fluid in May 2012, haven't added a drop since (except for those little neighborhood gremlins that are secretly filling it while we sleep!).

But what about the little cut in the bellow boot? Do we just replace the boot if we're not losing PS fluid? Cuz we can't let the boot cut go, right, cuz then crap can splash up through it and that's not good, right? Definitely plenty of "crap" on our roads to splash up there......it rains non stop for like 9 months straight!

 

Yes, that is the correct wheel bearing. I am thinking that the heart I was talking about was how many time that part was ordered by ME. Haha.

As for what to look for, I would suggest give it a total once-over front to rear. Look for corrosion/rust on brake lines and cables. Check for fluid leaks front and rear. Inspect rear brakes. (Since they are drum, most people overlook them until damage has occurred)

Denso is the OEM regulator.

 

Thanks Bamatoy!

 

yep, start dancing, because if the steering is leaking it will be low on fluid and if your not low on fluid then its not leaking. however you should check the rubber mounting boots that hold it in place on the truck as they might need replacing.

and yes the boot has to be replaced, if dirt gets in there it WILL make the steering start leaking because the dirt eats away the seals as they move. also the boot keeps the exposed inner tie rod grease from being washed away or contaminated with dirt.

also bend and flex the rubber brake hoses, if they have cracks in them then you need to replace them. they are cheap (3 of em at like $10 each) and by now im sure yours will need replacing since the ones on my 99 were all cracked and rotted.

I would also suggest, if you haven't done it already, give thought to checking and maybe relocating the differential breathers in case you might ever get in high water and when was the last time you greased or replaced your u-joints?

 

Thanks Keakar! Happy dance time!!!!

I know husband mentioned something about U joints, I'll ask him if he's done anything w/that. Thanks for the tips about the other stuff too, will relay info to him!!

 

You definitely want to replace the boot. Water intrusion is the primary cause for a seal leak only on the passenger side. The torn boot could easily be the cause of a leaking seal. Moisture (water) pits/rusts the rack shaft, traumatizing the seal. FWIW that being said, lots of folks go for years with a minor leak. It should be bone dry and clean as a whistle inside the boot. A slight seal leak could easily creep around the boot area yet not be enough to see a drop at the PS pump reservoir.
The boot clamps are entirely and intentionally reusable. Tie straps are a no no, they just don't get tight enough (remember the water). Look at the pic below to see how the clamp is released. Under the truck covered in sludge it can be hard to see how they work.


Now for a slower tempo to the happy dance.
A 98 rack from the factory will have what's known as an "old style rack guide" (search "rack guide") there's tons of info out there on this subject. So first off, check to see if you still have the original rack. Most of these have been replaced by your mileage but many were replaced with the same kind. The big "drain plug looking thing" on the rear of the driver side of the rack will have one of 2 styles. The the older style (bad) will have an external hex head (like a bolt) while the later (around 01 up) will have an internal hex "socket". All 1st gen 4wd/pre runner racks are interchangeable.
Here's a real edge of the seat read on what's going on inside a 1st gen 4wd rack, with (relevant to you) info/pics on checking for rust/pitting under the boots. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...rack-pinion-service-tools-tips-dry-wordy.html

There is a fair bit to consider with 1st gen racks with many options. Its a whole topic in itself. I don't feel like going into all that again just yet, so 1 step at a time. Find out what you have and it's condition.

 

well i'll just say this, I don't like metal being replaced with plastic either but the aftermarket boots come with plastic tie straps as replacements for the metal clamp and the factory oem replacement boots come with plastic tie straps as replacements for the metal clamp.

even if you wanted to try to reuse the metal clamps, most times they will break when being removed and assuming it didn't break, unless you have the special clamp retightening tool, you cant properly tension it again and it will not be on there tight enough and may leak and not seal.

the plastic tie strap (while maybe not the most desired thing) is the correct "recommended" way to refasten and seal the boot on properly.

the plastic tie strap on mine now holds the boot on a lot tighter and more secure then the factory metal ring did that was barely tight on the old boot and would even moved some when I tried to remove it.

anyway we are talking about dust boots here and they are not under any force or pressure, they just need to be held firmly in place to keep dirt out.

when I replaced my boots I tried very hard to find and replace the metal straps with new factory ones (because im anal about sticking with factory fasteners for things like this) but was told the plastic tie strap that comes with the boot was the only Toyota recommended replacement part for it. on other brands there is enough room there to use a metal hose clamp but ours is so skinny it wouldn't have enough room for a secure fit. if you know where I can get brand new replacement metal clamps please tell me but until then im using the plastic tie straps the dealer told me to use.

 

when you look up the boots at rockauto.com in the steering section its called the "Rack and Pinion Bellow"

 

The 4wd rack (and boots) are completely different than 2wd and one more time, water getting in the boot and rusting the shaft is the primary cause of seal failure.

 

For now, personally, I would just get it back and drive it for a bit, staying close to home right now.

leaky PS rack can be addressed later. Shocks and struts the same.

Seized wheel bearing can cause ultra havoc. Make sure you know the difference between a sight howling and god awful grinding noises.

Unless these guys have pressed in many 1st gen 4x4 wheel bearings with great sucess, I would contemplate a new RTR (ready to run) part there. You have to have the midas touch and know the inns and outs of pressing just a new bearing in the correct way on 1st gen 4x4 Toyotas.

 

GUYS! Just got the green light to pick up tomorrow, YEE HAW!!!!!!! So happy, cannot stop smiling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I'm so amped about just getting her back, I can't think clearly about all that bearing/R & P/shock/strut stuff!!! We didn't have mechanic do any of it - right now the plan is to do all ourselves in June at the same time, and use a machine shop for the difficult part w/the bearing that Bamatoy had described (is that what you're talking about Mod?).

Several of you guys have given us some good advice on the boot vs. R & P thing - honestly, I think I need to read a little more, talk to husband a little more, look at the area, reread all the advice you guys have given, and then figure out what makes most sense on that one.

And yes, Mod & Keakar, I know you guys have both mentioned the dangers of letting the bearing go too long - I appreciate it! I've warned husband he may not get to delay that one til June, rain or shine - if the sound gets crazy, it's happening right away. Plus I know I'm covered as far as evaluating the sound - if it gets funky or louder and I'm not sure if it's becoming urgent, I'll just record the sound and upload on here for you guys to give your opinions - and this time I'll even make an effort to avoid swearing and screaming through the recording!!!

Thanks for all the support throughout guys, will post some fun pics of our beloved Taco soon!!!!!!!!!!!!! HURRAY!!!!!!!!!!!!! SERIOUSLY CANNOT STOP SMILING, MY FACE HURTS NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

P.S. Bamatoy, thanks for tackling my generic question about what else to look for when we dig into all that other stuff - appreciate your input! Was gonna mail cookies but Keakar's cat took 'em all!

 

Yes and cool.

Don't drown out the bearing noise with sailor cussing when recording,,although we would all get a kick out of it . Not really needed to be recorded, btw. If you can hear it in the cab,,it's past due. If it picks up in pitch or howl while driving,,seek roadside/assistance immediato. Better safe than sorry.

Send my cookies to BillBamaToy,, I just polished off the last of the christmas sugar and I had a full fill this time around. yup, new belt on the evil treadmill time.