Throttle Position Sensor Issue?

My 2014 DCLB V6 auto Tacoma has an intermittent loss of power. It only happens every couple of weeks or so. The circumstances are always the same with it happening as you coast through a slow turn and then accelerate out of it. When you initially get on the throttle there is a complete lack of acceleration as if there was no connection between the gas pedal and the throttle body. It can last a couple of seconds and eventually goes as you press the gas pedal further down. The engine remains at a constant idle speed and the tach is steady. The engine does not run rough or the idle speed vary. Not a lot of laughs if you are going through an intersection which is where it always happens. Any thoughts?
I can see issues getting anything done at the dealership as it is so intermittent and wont happen on the test drive.

Paco

 

Try pulling up on the brake pedal with your left toe when it happens and see if the throttle response returns, it might be a misadjusted or faulty brake pedal switch activating the accelerator interlock.

 

Interesting idea but not the issue. You can place your foot on the brake and run the engine up to a fast idle against the converter and the engine doesnt cut out. I suspect the engine only throttles back when a certain throttle position has been reached.

Paco

 

x2

 

If you apply the brakes FIRST, then the throttle is not affected.

If you apply the brakes AFTER depressing the throttle, the engine will drop off to idle. Go for a drive and try it.

 

After considerable research I was advised to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and the vehicle goes through a learning phase. I was told to drive it somewhat more aggressively in particular to the situation where the throttle wasn't responding. After 3 days of putting a bit more foot in it the condition has not returned. That was 2 weeks ago and no further issues. If you have a similar issue its worth a try.

Paco

 

Sweet

 

My 2006 TRD has been doing this same prob. for a while now. Today on the way home it's happened about 50 times. Enough that I could try different things. At highway speeds just cruising at 100kmh it would cut out. I can shift into 4 (automatic) and the engine will still have power loss. Normally if I shift to 4 the rpm will pick up and I have more power. So that means it's not RPM or transmission related.

I'm thinking this is something electronic related to the gas pedal or ECU. OP, has your issues returned? My truck is almost not driveable like this.

 

The problem has not returned for me. I never had a problem on a straight run. Always coasting into a corner at idle and gently accelerating out.

Paco

 

I will try the battery disconnect today. I have ordered a new URD fuel pump and filter just in case. It is almost undrivable like this, and it just happened out of the blue. Normally it happens once a week only.
Thanks!

 

@Count Coconut Did this get resolved? I’ve been fighting the same thing for months, tried MAF, tps and throttle body, cleaned everything, plugs, fuel pump/filter, i fixed it 100% with a new throttle body and position sensor however it came back 2 days later which really confused me since it completely fixed the issue for that period of time.
The symptom seems like it’s always at the same “throttle pressure or close to, along with always happens while going up hill, next is 02 sensors and Another throttle body/tps since it seemed to have fixed it for a short time. anyone else able to chime in on this? Driving the truck is killing me at this point and with 2 years building my dream overland rig this has me to the point of just selling which I never want to do! I’ve been monitoring my fuel trims and when it happens I go negative -17 to + 17 about 3-4 times in about a 30 second period before it evens back out for a second then does it all over again.
I see a lean and rich code but not a single emissions/tuner transmission shop or Toyota can find anything wrong even with the ST & LT fuel trims. Please help I’m completely over throwing money at this!!

 

Update;
After 7 shops and months of diognosis and parts, I found it when no one else could, (Toyota, private shops and even Toyota specialty shops)
OCV- oil control valve or “solenoid”
They ohmed out correctly at 7.3 (refence is 6.9-7.9 however when testing I noticed the SMALLEST inconsistency, one of the ocv’s would close about .25mm further than the other. After replacing my truck is brand new!
No codes what so ever and shops couldn’t “feel it” yet my wife easily could. My symptoms felt like I was towing momentarily or I was getting really strong resistance for about 2-5 seconds then it would stop and show full power then right back into power loss. It was originally only noticed under load or going uphill which got worse and worse. Yes oil and ALL fluids are meticulously maintained! Here is the link that lead me to a few others which then lead me to this thought and thus a fix- ocv controlls timing!!!!!!! Plain and simple.
Thank you @tooter you don’t even know it but you saved me another 7 shops diagnostics fees and 6 more months trial and error. THANK YOU TW!! If anyone has questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to assist with parts I tried etc.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p0022-help-please.329065/

 

Did you replace both OCV’s? Ive experienced similar symptons on occasion, as though it loses all throttle input for a second or two.

 

Yes I did both. Cost 125~ for both.

 

Did you also clean the OCV filters on the sides of the engine. Not sure if they are in the front of the heads or the engine block.

 

Yup cleaned both. The one on passenger is pretty easy, driver side: remove batt & alternator, it’s on the drive side of block under the alternator. I could sent ya a pic of the one on the passenger side to give you an idea where to look. Just one bolt you pull out and the filter is inside the hole.

 

Gonna attempt to inspect and clean mine soon. Did you find anything in the screens like sludge or oil particles?
Use new washers?

 

I didn’t find anything in the screens, oil was dirtier in the screen than anywhere else. My washers were still so nice and new I re used them however I’d suggest having some on hand just in case.

 

Possible to see that picture you're mentioning. I've been experiencing this problem for a couple months, thought mainly transmission and saw another forum with about $1,000 repair for line pressure solenoid, valve body repair kit, filter and trans fluids. Id rather give this a shot first before spending that much into the transmission. It seems like you did this repair yourself? Do you have a link of where you ordered the parts? Thanks for any help

 

@Jordan-River my issue turned out to be the oil control valve, one was opening all the way and the other was blocked by about 1-2mm. What I ended up doing was pulling out both, hooking up power from a drill battery in order to check for full range of motion in the ocv. And that’s what showed me my issue. Are you working on a 2 or 2.5gen? Do you want a pic of the ocv valve location? I did all the work myself. The ocv I bought from Toyota. Not a single shop was able to find the issue. I’d highly recommend checking your ocv.