96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

At least. 93 is what's around here.

 

Yes... two actually. I have a 1/8" inline restrictor screwed into the oil port of the engine and another 3/16" restrictor in the turbo feed flange.
Glad to hear your goods came in!

 

I haven't used anything besides 91 octane in over a year.

 

Time for your January update.... how's it holding together???

 

Everything's good. I've been having rich AFR issues since the setup and FINALLY figured it out today. I had a tiny exhaust leak at the turbo exhaust housing that was throwing everything off. I had a copper silicone gasket maker party and viola! 14.7-14.8 idle all day. MAKE SURE YOU USE THAT STUFF.
I hooked up everything needed to tune my extra injectors but there's an issue with the tach wire connection. I'll post some pics later. How's you're build?

 

It's going slow, but that's about how I expected it. I got the parts I needed to fab up the rest of my exhaust after the downpipe. That's the good thing about living in metro Atlanta, Summit Racing isn't too far away.

Was your leak at the header to turbine connection, or turbine to downpipe?

 

Turbine to downpipe thank goodness. So did you just get that 3" to stock pre-cat 2.25" flange then?

 

After the CX downpipe, I've got a 3" pipe, then a reducer to 2.5" pipe, then the 2.5" two-bolt flange to tie into the rest of the stock exhaust. I'm debating on whether to put a 3" catalytic converter in there to be all environmentally friendly and all.

 

I doubt that would make even a moderate difference on the emmissions but it will unleash a pony or two. Believe me when I say that any little thing you do open up that puny 2.25" absolutely will make a significant power difference. The difference between my stock exhaust without turbo and the 3" straight through pipes without turbo was more noticeable than I ever would have imagined.

 

Hey man, doing my install in two weeks. Going to get the Toyota exhaust manifold gaskets and have some Cu based high temp FIPG for the turbo, what else do I need for this install that's not included in the kit (going to forgo the watercooling for now)?

Any hints, tips, tricks, etc... would be appreciated.

 

The only thing I would highly reccomend for now is switching out all the V-band and t-bolt clamps for quality SS clamps with a grade 8 yellow zinc bolt and nut. Ive stripped 4 already. Also recommend getting a high quality wastegate exhaust gasket instead of the swiss cheese looking metal one with asbestos type material samwiched in between that comes with the kit. The exhaust already ate a little hole out of mine on the top so my o2 readings are still a little wack. And whatever you do, USE LOCTITE on all the exhaust v-band clamps. I find myself having to tighten them up every few months.

 

Fyi, grade 8 and loctite don't do crap with exhaust parts. Just buy a good brand of v band

 

Yeah, I remember you mentioning that. What are SS clamps? Summit Racing has some V-band clamps but they are expensive as all hell

I think I'm going to use the CU gasket maker for the turbo and wastegate instead of the supplied gaskets. .

 

Copper gasket maker will burn too within a month. Make a custom flange or just upgrade the v band. It will save money if you do it right from the start

 

Stainless steel. I bought a couple 2.5" metal vband gaskets from ebay and caked the copper gasket maker on both sides before installing and those haven't leaked at all. It's the post turbo 3" vbands and the wastegate gaskets that sucked for me. And the grade 8 clamps I bought don't show any signs of stripping while the supplied ones did right away
One major design flaw with the headers and downpipe is that the flanges they use are all female. One flange end is supposed to have a permanent ring that fits into the other side to make a tight fit. These ones need to be perfectly aligned when clamping them together.

 

It shouldnt Heard that it should hold up very well to the heat. Its rated over 700F. The interior gasket might burn up but toward the edges, especially with this style header, the temps should be manageable.

Ahh, gotcha. Yeah, the pipe design confused me. I'm going to try to assemble them out of the truck as much as possible before installing.

 

^ He knows what's up. That Cu gasket maker is good stuff but you still need a metal gasket in there. The silicone burns up but the film of leftover copper greatly increases the air tight fitment. I'm going to have to tear off my wastegate eventually to put a good gasket in if I want my AFRs to be normal, and I am NOT looking forward to it. Spend whatever money you need to now, because you'll be cussing your truck out like me if not. My mpg should be a couple numbers higher than it is.

 

I'll look more into the RTV stuff. Ive heard of ppl use it on their turbos and manifolds. These manifolds are not performance designed and tend to run cooler than the tube manifolds and the 5VZ redlines at 5200 RPM's. I don't think Ill have to worry about the exhaust heat

 

Yeah I don't think so.

 

How about this:

$8 Stove Gasket Cement (77E) 2.3oz BLACK

http://www.amazon.com/Stove-Gasket-...421851447&sr=8-3&keywords=stove+gasket+cement

Rated up to 2000F

Looks permanent though...

Edit: Ok, so just read up on this, many ppl use it with great results. Not permanent and easy to take off. Def going to use this for my install.

From: http://www.jgsturbo.com/trboil.html

For V-clamps Im planning on these:

$29 Vibrant Performance 1491C Stainless Steel Quick Release V-Band Clamp

http://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1491C-Stainless-Release-V-Band/dp/B001P28WK2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421855265&sr=1-2&keywords=3%22+V-band+clamp