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2006 Tacoma brake vaccuum broken, need help!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by VV4DE, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:37 PM
    #1
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I didn't get far from my house when my brake pedal would barely budge and the truck wouldn't stop. I heard a pop-psssss and pulled over to check it, and found this. I limped back home and idk what to do. Is that whole top piece going to have to be replaced? I don't see how else to fix this, has anyone else seen this happen? Thanks in advance

    20150110_162430.jpg
     
  2. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:50 PM
    #2
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    FML. Looks like I'm gonna have to replace the entire "intake air surge tank" (171090P011), unless anyone has other ideas? The part is $300+
     
  3. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:52 PM
    #3
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Without seeing where the like that broke off from there is headed, it would be difficult to tell for sure, but you may temporarily get a plug for the hose until you get a permanent repair, so that you can regain your power assist brakes.
     
  4. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:53 PM
    #4
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Salvage. Or you see them fairly frequently on this site when people get a supercharger.

    Locally, I see them on craigslist from time to time.
     
  5. Jan 10, 2015 at 2:54 PM
    #5
    08TacoTrD

    08TacoTrD Well-Known Member

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    Maybe some JBweld on the broken connector?
     
  6. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:01 PM
    #6
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure if it's plastic or metal, or if it'd hold up to the vaccuum pressure? This is what it looks like on a part diagram...

    Capture.jpg
     
  7. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:02 PM
    #7
    nd4spdbh

    nd4spdbh Well-Known Member

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    thats a shitty one.

    Though i would clean the area up. Use a little crazy glue to hold it back in place, then some resin and fiber glass to seal it all back up on the outside and strengthen the bond and you should be good.

    You could always also clean up the break, thread the hole and put a standard NPT fitting of some kind in the hole with some teflon tape. Not sure how much material is there to work with. You would definetly want to take the intake plenum (surge tank as they like to call it) off if you plan on going this route to not get any plastic shavings down the motor.
     
  8. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:07 PM
    #8
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    oh wow, that IS the vacuum line to your brake booster! I didn't realize that pic was of the intake manifold.nd4spdbh has a pretty good suggestion. Would take a little time. And also, as mentioned, you can always try the JB Weld route, but if you do JB, make sure you do not block ANY of the inside of the line.
     
  9. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:20 PM
    #9
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah man I damn near rear-ended someone at the first intersection I came to... It was probably weakened when a tornado blew a tree on my truck in October, so maybe insurance will reimburse me, who knows... All I know is, this sucks.
     
  10. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:23 PM
    #10
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Well.... it DID before it broke.










    :D too soon?
     
  11. Jan 10, 2015 at 3:38 PM
    #11
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha you win, sir! I just ordered a used one on ebay, should be fun putting in huh?

    My girlfriend broke her ankle on Christmas Eve while we were zip-lining in FL (3 fractures, had surgery 8 days ago), so I can use her car while the part is being delivered.
     
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  12. Jan 10, 2015 at 4:46 PM
    #12
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    Bore it out enough to put a piece of 3/8 copper pipe in it and glue it in.
     
  13. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:49 PM
    #13
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    I was just wondering:

    How in the hell do you break something like that with normal use?
     
  14. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:53 PM
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    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.

    That was gonna be my exact suggestion-it'll be stronger than new.
     
  15. Jan 11, 2015 at 9:28 AM
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    Syncros

    Syncros Well-Known Member

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    Meh I'd drill it, tap it, thread in an appropriate barbed fitting and call it good.
     
  16. Jan 11, 2015 at 11:41 AM
    #16
    landphil

    landphil Fish are FOOD, not friends!

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    X2, looks like plenty of material for NPT threads, probably 1/4 NPT. If not, I'd fish a brass bulkhead fitting with sealant or a rubber washer though the inside, spin the nut on, and thread a barbed fitting into that.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Jan 11, 2015 at 12:10 PM
    #17
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    X2


    IMHO, I wouldn't trust JB weld or any other epoxy to repair that. It could last for months and then crack at the most inopportune time. F-that.
     
  18. Jan 11, 2015 at 1:58 PM
    #18
    Failure2Comply

    Failure2Comply Old HVACR Tech

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    +3
     
  19. Jan 12, 2015 at 5:53 AM
    #19
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

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    The inside diameter of the vacuum pipe is 1/4" to retain that size would require a 3/8 pipe fitting there is not enough material there to achieve that. I don't quite get how you propose to get the nut on the inside could you explain that? Pipe thread is tapered nuts don't do will with a tapered thread because they do not tighten all the way down the thread, the nut maybe tight but the fitting won't be. A loose nut inside an intake is some thing I would not want to take a chance with.
     
  20. Jan 12, 2015 at 7:10 AM
    #20
    VV4DE

    VV4DE [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I ordered a used one off ebay and it should be here later this week. I used the epoxy method to hold for now, and really it feels extremely strong. Ain't pretty, but I have brakes again lol

    Maybe in the mean time I can do some under-the-hood cleaning.. shouldn't have splashed that hole so hard :rolleyes:

    20150111_163330.jpg
     
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