SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Thinking we should bust out the scan gauge when husband gets home from work and try this. And Koditten, you recc' cleaning the throttle body if it hadn't been done already, right? I would imagine it had been, but seems worth verifying if it's easy to do anyway. And looking around for cut/damaged wires, right?

Also, I know Bama mentioned using a fuel pressure gauge to verify that whole concern - does the scan gauge tell us anything about fuel pressure/pump, or do we need to buy a fuel pressure gauge to find that out? What would a FP gauge cost ballpark? Easy to use? I know mechanic said pressure looked good, but I'm paranoid about starving our new engine of fuel when 1st started, considering how we got to where we are now. Pending cost/ease of use, could be worth just having this tool around.

Started OKish to go to the park, but not instantly. Almost chickened out from going - visions of waiting for a tow at the park, with my pit bull mix by my side, in cold weather, didn't sound fun. But we went for it, and she started OKish again when leaving there, after ~30-40 min walk. Started FAST after arriving home, shutting off, and restarting instantly. Seems like what they did (clean/lube idler air intake - it was stuck he said) helped the problem, but didn't completely solve it. Ready to start checking basics at home, then go back there if problem continues/worsens and basic DIY stuff isn't getting anywhere. Still running BEAUTIFULLY, idling normal, normal RPMs during acceleration, normal temp on dash gauge (I realize Koditten said that's worthless though - glad we have SCII now!), normal readings on the AFR gauge, no CEL. Getting closer to thinking I'm worrying about nothing, yet there's still definitely no question it starts up faster if just shut off vs. shut off a while ago. Would hate to prematurely dismiss something important that could hurt new $$$$ engine.

Wanted to share a happy pic. Our 4 legged kid, Dolly, thinks this is her Taco - it kinda is, since it's primarily used to haul her brat ass back and forth to various hiking spots - she's just a teensy bit spoiled. She was quite excited to hop in her Taco's backseat and head to her fave park for squirrel hunting today -

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fbj583ypcvkp1vw/AACVuWlYgcCcNyAQhbJm0d1oa?dl=0

Here's a link for what I think is a Factory Service Manual, or at least pieces of one. I think husband said he found on Yotatech maybe? Anyway, might be of some use for people like us who are relying on Chilton, Haynes, and Google University only!

 

I don't get what you are saying or why you even quote me to say that

I was just explaining to knuckleduster271 that she made well informed thought out decision and decided her truck was worth spending that much $ on it. its easy to come in after the fact and add things up to say she spent too much but it was her decision not ours and she got all options (maybe even too many options lol) fully explained to her before hand.

 

ha ha ha, made me LOL keakar!! ain't that the truth!!! JK, grateful to have help understanding ALL options, as I've never dealt w/this before (and hopefully never will again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

 

I just feel bad you paid $1000 for cleaning injectors when a full set of new upgrade ones would have cost less then half that easy but you mechanic obviously was staying with OEM factory parts so it is what it is.

injectors are kinda simple and very basic in design like spark plugs but they are harder to replace because more stuff needs to be taken apart but they are nothing technical that requires top dollar premium priced OEM replacements

 

Oh god no, we didn't pay $1K for injectors/cleaning! We paid $120 for 2 new injectors, and $180 to have all 6 cleaned/tested. Trust me, I'd be bitching up a storm if we'd been charged $1K for injector stuff - you've taught me enough to know that would be nuts!!

 

but that's what I thought you said here:

I miss read it lol, rereading it now I see that also included the FPR, fuel filter, power steering pump/drive belts but even with that list, it seams a little high. but that's probably because its all OEM Toyota parts (dealers double the prices on everything)

had you had time to do your own shopping for that stuff I bet you could have trimmed a few hundred off that price easy, maybe enough to pay for the AFR gauge & install. but that also might have most likely delayed getting the truck back for an extra week or more.

in the end you got good work from a trusted mechanic so who cares as long as doing a quality job was the predominant factor in mind.

 

Hey Koditten - got a sec? Husband's reading SCII manual right now - we're eager to use it to check the engine coolant temp sensor, and possibly some other stuff (see below). Still having mild starting issues. If you can give us any shortcuts to get us going quicker, it'd be much appreciated.

 

have you replaced the fuel filter or had it replaced? because you never want to overlook the most simple things

even if it isn't the problem I wouldn't run a brand new engine and fresh injectors without a new fuel filter

 

Read almost all of this thread, and congrats on getting your Taco back. Sure it feels good.

My 02 216,000 Lost oil pressure on blustery Stormy eve commuting on the Outer Banks of NC. Lost power, truck died, restarted to a rattling lower end and almost zero power under load. After getting it home and onto a trusted mech, it clearly has some main bearing noise, or worse. It does start with almost no issue, besides the first initial rattle and a total loss of power when under load.

Newer/used engine time, not worrying about rebuilding anything with 216,000.

I have a couple options as far as mechanics, the guy down the street, found a junk spare, 1,900 110,000 he'll install with all bells/whistles 2,000. 3900 total not bad .

Waiting on another quote, where I source the engine, this is where I'm stuck. Online seems like a lemon trap, tons of middle man type outfits looking to unload junk for a fast buck.

So my question to this lively group is:

Who are the reputable "used" engine dealers, and are there any on the East Coast close to Virginia Beach, VA? I'd prefer to lay my eyes on it before buying it, unless there is a known reliable outfit that could deliver with out to much fuss with warranty/reshipping etc.

Thanks before hand for any advice. Its been a rough 2 months without her. lol[/IMG][/IMG]

 

They put in a brand new fuel filter Keakar, but thanks for the thought. Heading out there now w/SG II. Wish us luck. Not sure how much husband actually read vs. plans to wing it. Cross fingers that we don't blow up new engine!!!!!!!!!! : )

 

Sorry for your situation man, I can certainly feel your pain!!!!!!! I am not the one to give advice on this thread though - I'll leave that to the dudes that have been advising me! Good luck!

 

look here: http://www.pullapart.com/locations/ its still a gamble but you get an engine you can start and be sure it runs for under $200 but you have to pull it out yourself and if you bring in your old engine you save the $45 core charge

 

Glad you got the scan gauge. Be aware that the scan gauge is one of the best basic tools to have. It does not beat the factory techstream scan tool. It is a wonderful tool to have for the general info that our trucks can give us.

IM not on my PC, so typing on a tablet sucks and forgive the typos.

I will warn you that you will desire more and more diagnostic tools once you reach the limits of the SG. As said earlier, the aldata account will give you so much more info than the Hayes manual you started with. I think my first year was $36,after that it was something like $9 for 3 years. It's great being able to use any tablet or computer to get same info pros use.

I use my sg every day, but opted to purchase the Toyota techstrem software to learn even more than the sg can tell me. The Toyota software is not portable, so the sg is my everyday tool.

 

Will SC tell us fuel pressure?

 

Record a cold start up for us. This engine needs to make several revolutions before it is allowed to run. IM not sure what you are hearing is not normal. All 3.4 motors seen to take longer than what one would think is normal.

 

Sorry, there is no fuel pressure reading.

Didn't you say the pressure regulator was changed? If yes, you can put that worry on the back burner.

Fuel pumps generally don't get weak. They either work or not. The pressure regulator is more important and a lot easier to change.

 

I would add to go along with this,

new engines (which you have one now) take time to break in so they often run a little rougher and start a little harder until things break in fully so don't expect perfect like a new showroom truck. its ok to have to work the cobwebs out for a few thousand miles until things form perfect seals to each other

 

http://youtu.be/qPDxZQ_99Lg

This was a start when I was leaving the park, so it had sat for ~30-40 minutes.

 

http://youtu.be/QrkKLnm1jTs

And here's a start after got home from park, turned off, and restarted within 5 minutes.

It's still cranking way faster when off just a short time like this! Doesn't that seem abnormal? It'd be one thing if all starts were consistently slow or fast, but it's the difference among them that's worrying me......