Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Also my ifs is wearing out and needing replaced. So why drop roughly 2500-3 grand on ifs then end up sas later on anyways. When I can sas this way and come I'm roughly around 6-7 grand.

 

??? good God what kind of parts are you buying I put new 63's chev leafs, a 14 bolt with 5.38 gears in the rear, and put a Dana 60, full hydro steering, 5.38 gears, an arb locker, 18" external res SAW coil overs, FOA 2.5 bumps, 4 link in the front for under 7 grand.

 

There you go then!

That's the same reason im working on an SAS plan. My ifs is falling apart and i want to lock the front end, but not have to worry about changing CV's all day. I love the low slung stability of the IFS the truck sticks to side hills like glue. My racks leaking, im pretty sure i have a failing wheel bearing, my ball joints are shit, i don't really trust that front end to stand up to a locker. Plus i have an fj-60 almost falling in my lap so that makes it a bit easier.

 

What i have noticed in a lot of these swap threads, people confuse stuff they want with what they need (not necessarily the case here). I priced out a swap with leafs using a custom built ruff stuff 9.5" front end stuffed with goodies that came in right around where hes at in price, so i think the numbers may be off.

The high end of my swap cost estimates are at 3k right now.

 

Well when I did a price sheet I priced everything high so that i know I will be under.
Doing chevy 63s, rear e-locker axle, 5.29 gears front and rear, new shocks for rear.
Front I'll be getting a older tcase, marlin 4.7:1 swap kit, psc steering pump, tg fj80 hd steering kit, frame reinforcement plates, all brackets from ruff stuff, marlin fj80 rebuild kit, and foa coil overs. I'll post a full price sheet when I can get back to my computer and you can tell me how/where to get things cheaper lol. May even be able to convince me to go 3 link I just don't know how you got off so cheap Lol I figured you were in 10-15k

 

I will be close to that after I get a 4 speed altas another arb and some one bigger drive shafts. my front shaft is going to cost around 1300. It's going to have constant velocity joints that will achieve 49deg on each end of the shaft they are rated at 3/4 ton strength so that should do.

Edit: forgot I'm going to want RCV axles in the front as well that pushes the price up another 2K.

 

Damn you lol you've got me all messed up now. Rethinking the whole set up I had. Going to sit down and price out a dana 44, links, and bigger rear axle now...

So your not 4x4 or locked up front yet?!?

 

If you wait long enough maybe 10 months max, I know someone who has a fully built chromo D44 and an upgraded rear 9" to match

 

And they are only 14 hours away!!

 

Haha to bad that some one is over 600 miles away lol and that would completely destroy any kind of savings.

 

Keep the 80 axle over that Dana 44 junk. Your rear will be fine, up to 37's if your doing moderate wheeling and know how to drive.

 

Hell, I'd be surprised if my axle sells for a penny over $1400, and the rear for $200.

 

Ok here's a complete pricing sheet

Front axle
Axle. 400
Gears. 230
Instal kit. 225
Rebuild kit. 140
Brakes. 100

Steering.
Fj80 box. 100
Tg steering kit. 220
Psc pump. 495

Rear axle
E-locker. 600
Gears. 225
Instal kit. 245

Suspension
Radius arms. 250
Foa coil overs. 570
R.S. Buckets. 100
Limit straps. 60
Bump stops. 30
Radius bracket. 30
Panhard bracket. 24
Rear shocks. 180
Tg brake line kit. 100
Chevy 63s. 300

Drive line
Tcase. 100
Tg adapter. 300
Drive shaft. 250
Tg oil pan. 260
4.7:1 marlin 500

Misc.
fluids. 200
Frame plates. 80
Random shit. 500

 

Dude, add that up lol. I'm too lazy.

 

Let's see my build up...

Front axle - 150
Histeer - 150
Knuckles - 500
U joints - 400
Toyota flange - 70
Brakes - 100
Hubs - 100
Axle shafts - 650
Diff cover - 125
Gears - 250
Spool - 125
Bearings/seals for wheel hubs and pinion - 250

So...

 

No I'm have a front drive line in now and the front is geared locked with an arb. I'm still under 7K at the moment what I want is a drive line that wont bind at full droop. I have so much droop and I'm tall already that i hit 48deg. at the Tcase at full droop. no Toyota drive line will give me that kind of flex. good new is I can get a super beefy drive line now and it will work with my atlas later as well.

X2 that 80 axle is just as tough as the danna 44 after they have both been upgraded. If you are going to go bigger go with 60's my price is lower because I picked up both my axles for $200 that's cheap for a dana 60 and 14bolt.

2

 

I would argue tougher equipped with longs. My friend has an fj80 on 40s with a doubler and does things with that truck that would grenade just about any 44 and most stock 60s. Too bad they didn't keep the 9.5" up front on those, talk about won tons!

 

It will sell for 500.... Unless you advertise that it will fit a jk then you might get 800 on a jeep board!

 

Fixed

 

Yea, I was hoping for 1k... So worthless of a resale value. it should fit a Jk shouldn't it? fuck idk shit about JKs... Idk, theres some dumb people here in indiana, might get 1k haha