Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Dylan I might have some twin sticks for you. I just pulled the cases out of my taco and I think I'm going to put the rear case back to j-shift and put it in the 82.

 

Maybe, very tempted to jut put in a tcase thats swapped to 23 spline and call it a day. save a couple hundred bucks.

 

Who in here was telling me that the fj60 axles have the 9.5" center section but mini truck outers? I was looking through the box of spare parts that came with the truck and there are extra manual locking hubs with different size hub gears. I counted the splines on the birfield and it's a 30 spline.

 

might have had ifs hubs in there. but you can change the center to fit the solid axle shafts.

 

What's the spline count on ifs hub gears? I've been reading and it looks like the fj60's are 30 spline at the diff, 27 at the birf, and 30 at the outer end. Fj80's are 30,24, 30 and are huge

 

no idea but I have one sitting at work I could count it. I just know they are physically smaller in diameter. All this talk of the 9.5 cruiser diff being strong I get but I think id still rather have a 8" HP diff in the front if I was running toy axles, the rear is a different story.

 

Gotcha. I have a pair that are much smaller than the birf so I'm guessing that's what they are

 

save them buy cromo inners for them and bam you got some tough aisin hubs. then you can use the others as just in case shit happens.

 

The 9.5 toy diff is basically a center pinion. The strongest and most efficient place to have the pinion. Generates the least amount of heat to.

 

did not know that. just the same I will always choose a high pinion diff for the front. it's kinda my thing.

 

9.5 rear with 80 outers duh. Still you'll be into an 80 axle way more than tons in the long run.

Do I really need to explain the right hand drive arm?

And even the 80 guys hate their radius arms. At least go with like a battlement fab radius arm or something.

80 arms are a waste of money.

 

Settle down lol I'm learning all this as I go. Just wasn't sure what you meant but I understand now.

Pricing up custom radius arms or three link right now. Not sure which way I'll go yet.

 

I did a cost comparison between building a fully pimped out diamond/ruffstuff 9.5" front housing with 80 outer's and compared that to a pimped out 60 and the 60 was far more expensive. Granted the 60 is probibly a lot stronger.

NOW if you had an 80 rear housing, had a welder, and an 80 front housing and knew how to set castor, you can build one pretty cheaply and that includes buying the axle bar, but then again that's way outside the scope of most home fabricators and a lot of tedious work. At that point you may as well just take a slight step down in axle shaft and outer strength and build an fj60 axle and save some time.

Dj318: in regards to radius arms, look on ford bronco boards and see what they do. They have been messing with radius arms since before most of us were borne, and you may be able to get some tips on how to fabricate a system for far less $$$ than an off the shelf system that you will have to modify anyway.

 

Neighbor has a semi float rear, a full float rear, and an 80 front. We looked at doing the jap one ton. With chromos, hellfires and all the custom fab - either having it done or buying the alignment bar and pucks - theres just no way you're gonna spend more on a 60 with hi steer arms and chromos and hubs and the built 60 is stronger. Itd be a sweet axle no doubt, light and tons of clearance but at the cost I think you're better off with tons.

Lets say on avg 700 front and rear 80 axles no bling. Sell the front third and shaft and you're maybe 600$ into it. Hellfires are 975$ if you can get them. Chromos are 900$ you cant even get longs right now so nitros... Lets say 250$ for a bar true enough to use and having pucks machined. 2700$ I think is fair. Thats with drive flanges... Hubs would be more

A kingpin 60 for 1000$

960$ for hubs and full chromo/spicers. 150 for highsteet arms. 2100$
Sell stock hubs and inners and you're less.
Did I forget anything?

Even if I'm overshooting the 80 500$, and I dont think I am, it still makes more sense to me to just go tons unless you want a light strong axle.

I guess a built 60 axle wouldn't be bad though and certainly cheaper!

 

Yea but whats the fun in that? You could also go buy a 1 ton chevy/ford truck of the 80s flavor, chop the ass end off, cage it, slap some 40s on it and have a crawler built for a few thousand dollars less than what most people spend on a front axle!

 

my last build was 100% Toyota and I was breaking it way to much on 37's so I started looking into a 5vze swap and fj80 axles and then said at this point I might as well buy a new truck and just put tons under it. Here I am.

 

Dont waste time with a stupid radius arm set-up... You'll eventually want to upgrade and make shit better when you wanna take wheeling more seriously. Do the 3-link, stop being gay about it and just 3-link it. That's my problem... I should of just 3-linked it, now here I am being a bitch and not 3-linking it and buying 40" tires for my truck that I can't even use yet

 

the difference air bumps makes oh my god!!!

 

I know I know.... It'll be 3 linked up front of I can ever figure out how to make it work lol plans are to run a 37-38 cooper after my 35s wear out. But I've kinda fallen in love with the brocoma build over on pirate. I like that low profile exo cage. With that being said I very we'll at end up on 40s lol.

But for now this thing will be a dd on 35s.

 

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