Speed bleeders for brakes

Have any of you ever had any experience using these (ex. Russell Speed Bleeders)? If so, does it truly make it a one person brake-bleed job? Also, when you replace the existing bleed screw with the speed bleeder, how much brake fluid is lost and will the system need bleeding? In other words, are these things worth it or just a gimmick? I am not a racer, just an everyday driver. I am looking for a way to be able to do this myself. Thanks in advance!

 

The technology is sound. Just switch, bleed, and go. I have yet to see them in actual use though. Just have to make sure you don't accidentally leave one in! lol

 

Thanks, so they aren't designed to stay in? One poster mentioned replacing his stock bleed screws w/ these over on the 2nd Gen DIY brake pad thread...that thread is a little old and I posted the same on it but never heard anything - and pm'd him but no reply...

Oh, your giff has to be the best ever...

 

They work great I use them on my race bikes. Hardly any fluid is lost installing them but yes bleed them after installation. They are meant to be left in place just keep caps on them so they don't get dirt/corrosion inside them.

 

Thanks! I may have to try them when I change the pads coming up soon...

 

Hmmm, from the description it appeared to be something you only installed during the bleeding proceedure. I will have to look again in more detail.

 

I used them for years on my previous car. It turned brake bleeding from a massive pain in the ass to an easy chore to do during routine maintenance.

They go in and stay in. As a previous poster said, just keep caps on them to avoid contamination. Shouldn't matter, they're sealed, but why risk it.

 

Used them on a 73 Firebird. Liked 'em!

 

I haven't had them on any of my vehicles but I've helped a friend bleed his breaks, super easy. As those above me you just take at the old bleeder and screw in the new one, it's basically a replacement bleeder with a check valve. It is left in.

 

It's basically a bleeder screw with a ball-valve and spring built in.
Spring and ball seat against the bottom when you let your foot off so it doesn't draw air in, brake fluid (and air) pressure unseats the ball and allows it out.

So... no need to remove, but you do need to remember to snug them down when you're done, same as the stock bleeder.

Got them on my bike and I like them.

 

anyone have a link to the ones for the tacoma? I have searched and searched and don't know the model to get.

I know this is an old thread.

 

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/truck-suv.shtml

Got mine through summit.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rus-639560

 

I ended up ordering this. Hope it works, will find out Friday

$14 Motion Pro 08-0143 Hydraulic Brake Bleeder

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...id=1415212098&sr=8-17&keywords=speed+bleeders

 

The Russell website does not list them for a 2nd gen 4wd. Anybody know which model will work?

 

Check the speed bleeders site or send them an email.

 

I'm going to get some of these for my truck. I want to replace my brake fluid and these will help.

I called speedbleeder.com to confirm...

For Second Gen 4x4 the application is

(2) SB7100 (Front Disk brakes) M7 x 1.0 x 35.15
(2) SB1010 (Rear drum brakes) M10 x 1.0 x 34.44

http://speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm

They are available in stainless and come with dust cap.

 

I bought some speedbleeders and put them on my 05 but could never get my brakes fully bled at home. Ended up having to take my truck to a shop twice for bleeding. Royal PITA. I will confirm the Speedbleeder P/N's later when I get home.

I think my problem was that I turned the key to "acc" or "run" to unlock the steering so I can turn the front wheels for better access to the brakes and in the interim, it activated the ABS which sucked in air.

 

That sucks to hear, especially that it happened twice! I'm not sure I understand though. EDIT.... Found this post here which may be relevant.

 

I guess I need to be a little more clear. I had to take it back to the shop to rebleed because I felt after the first time, there was still air in the system and pedal was still a little soft.

I put on the speedbleeders when i rebuilt my calipers and added SS brake lines. As soon as the system is open, air gets in. My theory is that once I turn the key, the ABS cycled the valves trapping that air in the ABS block up front. From some research I found, once that happens, you need to have a shop bleed with a diagnostic tool hooked up to cycle the valves in the ABS block.

I plan on putting longer SS Lines on my new truck in the near future. So yes I will do it all without turning the key to see if it makes a difference.

 

These are the same P/N's I put in my 05 as well