Never ending rotor warping

I am not sure what's causing this but I'm on my third set of rotors on my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 TRD and after a period of time they start warping. Every time I have replaced my rotors I have replaced my brake pads as well and I started out with Hawk Performance HPS pads and then switched to Hawk light truck pads. The rotors I have been using are Federated Rotors and I do believe those are manufactured by Raybestos (not 100% sure about that).

I still have plenty of pad life on my current set of Hawk pads and I have decided to go with a different pad brand the next time I change my brakes but other than extreme cool down from a lot of water on a rainy day, what else would cause the rotors to constantly warp? I figure I would ask you guys to see if there is something I am overlooking and if others have had the same issue as I am.

Thanks in advance...

 

Warp pretty much only comes from heat. If you brake hard, ride the brakes etc to build up the heat and then come to a long stop and keep your brakes pressed you have the entire disc cooling except where the pads are. You'll end up warping on either side of the pad itself.

I read a while back that most 'warp' problems aren't actually warp at all, just a build up of glaze on the disc that the pads catch easier than the metal. So you feel the friction difference as the wheel is turning. Article said cleaning the discs almost always cured the complaint.

 

I don't ride the brakes but I know I can be pretty heavy on them as I wait till the last minute to hit the brakes most times....

When you say cleaning the rotors I am guessing you are referring to turning them?
That's where I am at now... I kept the last set of rotors when I replaced the set I have on now... so there is plenty of service life on the initial set and I intend on getting those turned and swap them out with the ones on my truck now and have those turned and stored on the shelf in my garage....

 

Here's the answer for the OP's issue(s)
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric White Paper B1-Warped Brake Disc.pdf

 

Thanks for the information!

 

^Yep, pretty much what I remember, not sure if its the same article or not.

The only person I've ever met who actually warped his rotors did so over and over again, also developed flat spots on his tires. "Slowing" wasn't in his vocabulary, it was nothing but foot to the floor no matter what pedal he was pushing. He ended up getting his squad revoked for a month and a few refresher courses in evo (emergency vehicle operation). He's also the same guy that I had a long talk with regarding his needing to learn to use the front brake on his first motorcycle unless he wanted to asshole somebody someday. About a month later, I understand the view of the top of the car in front of him as he passed from trunk to hood was AMAZING



Back OT, I've used the cheapy pads on everything forever, never had an issue. I switched to ceramics on my mustang though, my wheels don't seem to get as gross as they did with the regular pads.

 

Third set of rotors from where and what brand? Low iron content in cheap rotors allows them to warp easily.

 

What about your rear brakes? Who do they look? If they are shot your fronts are picking up the slack and getting to hot. And for a simple easy way to removed glazzing, just remove pads and scuff them on concrete. And put back on. Works for squeaky breaks too

 

Do the tundra upgrade and be done with it. I agree with Newtome make sure your rear brakes are in good shape and properly adjusted.

 

What do they replace the iron with?

 

Read the link I posted above.

Rotors do not warp.

 

What are you torquing your lug nuts to??

If your lug nuts are too tight...you'll warp the rotors.

 

This is a great read...

 

I didn't read the whole thread so maybe this was mentioned but ...

often rotor issues and brakes wearing out too fast are from sticky calipers not releasing fully or bad brake hoses that don't allow the pads to release correctly because they are swollen shut on the inside. but driving habits plays a big part in brake pad and rotor life as well.

to confirm the calipers ate not dragging and move freely jack the front end up and remove the tires and make sure the caliper slides are greased and the calipers move on them freely. then test for sticky calipers or bad hoses by pressing brake and then see if the wheel drags, do this for both sides. if its dragging then crack the brake bleeder screw, if it releases then the hose is bad, if it doesn't release then its the caliper.

 

I would add to the comments about rear brakes, if you added some lift and did not adjust the brake proportioning valve arm by the amount of lift, your rear brakes are not doing their share of the braking. All braking to the front, no bueno.

 

^^^ this. Even if you didn't lift the truck.