2015 Double Cab audio install

Everyone has a different way of doing things based on their priorities and preferences. Here is what I did, and why. My priorities were good sound, and a factory appearance. So factory that when I bring to the dealer for service, they think it's a factory installed option.
I started with the factory non-JBL, non-Nav stereo. I may upgrade to a Pioneer Avic later, but I actually really like the factory stereo.
Installed an Alpine MRX-V60 amp under the driver seat. It had the power I wanted for my entire system, takes high-level inputs, and fits where I needed it.

I mounted it on a 1/2" piece of MDF with legs to allow the under seat vents to still be functional. Ran 8 gauge power and ground wire. Why 8 gauge, you ask? Because it's a 9 foot run of wire from the battery to the amp. 8 gauge can easily handle the (under) 60 amps of current this amp will draw at full tilt.

Fuse mount/hood pinswitch mount:

Next step, subwoofer. I designed and built a simple rectangular box from 3/4" MDF to fit an 8" Kicker Comp subwoofer behind the factory JBL plastic trim. I got the trim panel from another member on here. The box sits in 0.55 cubic feet of air and with 300 watts powering it, goes more than low and loud enough for my needs. I laid damping material on the back wall of the cab and placed sound deadening foam all over the backs of the factory plastics behind the seat.


I am happy with it so far. Sounds great, looks factory. Next step will be the door speakers, scheduled for next weekend.

Matt

 

it looks really nice. you are totally fine with 8 AWG wire. i used a 15 ft. run of 8 AWG to power a JL 500/1 without any problems.

is that pinswitch for your security system? good job on the mounting bracket.

 

You didn't need a line out converter to hook the factory head unit up to an amp?

 

One of the reasons I went with the Alpine amp is because it doesn't require an LOC. Saves me time now, and has three sets of RCA inputs if/when I upgrade the factory head unit.
The pinswitch is for the security system/remote start.

 

Really so do all the Alpine amps have this feature? Like the Alpine PDX V9?

 

The PDX-V9 doesn't.

 

Which other ones besides the Alpine MRX-V60 have it? That is not made anymore.

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDRV75/Alpine-PDR-V75.html


Will this one work fine with my 2015 Factory Head Unit

 

I don't see why it wouldn't. You still need an adapter to convert your speaker wires to RCAs, unless you're pretty good with a soldering gun.

 

$500 for at a 5 channel is quite expensive
I may have not only a better option for you but would also be cheaper as i get items direct

 

^ whatcha got

 

You point me to that adapter please. Not handy in the soldering department

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFI...iF2SW.html?search=speaker+wire+to+RCA+adapter

You'll need two of those.

 

Thanks brother

 

Sub'd!

 

Finally got to the door speakers. Rear speakers: how to make the speakers on the left (Infinity Reference 6.5") fit in a hole made for the speakers on the right (factory junk).


I could have bought adapters for anywhere from $25 to $100. (A hundred and three dollars? Seriously? For that??) I chose instead to spend $10 on a small sheet of MDF and get my jigsaw and router out. Took maybe a half hour total. Here they are, unpainted, then primed and coated with underbody coating.



Rear drivers-side door, with sound deadening applied and the speaker installed. I ran new wire to each door from the amp under the seat.

 

Next step, front doors. I went a little outside the box here. The front doors have SO much room! Instead of deadening the entire door as some do, even to the point of making panels to fit over all openings, I actually made enclosures for the front speakers. Total mounting depth was about 2", and the speaker fits fine, with plenty of room for ventilation. Pic shown with "enclosure" mounted in the door to test fit.


It took maybe an hour to make the first one, and 10 minutes for the second one (thank you router table!). It's made up of, from front to rear, a piece of 3/4" MDF to mount the new speaker on (Infinity Reference 6x8), then a piece of 3/4" MDF that mounts on the door, then 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF, cut exactly the same size on the outside, then a final piece of 3/4" MDF to serve as a back plate. It's not too heavy, the door panel fits over it fine, I have great midbass response, and I didn't have to cut or drill a single hole anywhere. It's not too pretty, I may get out the fiberglass and make new ones that are more aesthetically pleasing...or since it's behind a door panel, I may not.

Finished passenger front door...

Tweeter mount is a 1/4" MDF ring, primed and painted with the same underbody coating. You'll note where the crossover is mounted...plenty of room there, and I used a factory hole in the inner door panel to mount it, no drilling!

Something to point out here though. Look at the pic above. All wiring is taped down to the door or liner...always do this!! There's nothing worse than wrapping up an expensive and time consuming install only to have rattles in your door. Most times, those rattles are wires or unused harnesses not properly secured. Always zip tie your wiring, and go the extra step and tape it down in doors. On that note...

See pic above...those are the factory speaker plugs, one for the tweeter and one for the woofer. I wrapped each in a little weatherstripping tape before duct taping them to the door liner. I hate rattles. A lot.

Summary...all door speakers replaced. Looks factory, sounds way better. Amp under seat. Unobtrusive. Subwoofer behind stock JBL panel behind rear seats. Sounds great! No rattles anywhere, no holes drilled anywhere, everything can be returned to factory stock in an hour or two.

Matt

 

Great Install But I got one question? DO you have a pic of how you actually wired up the radio to connect to an after market amp? I see you didn't use LOC's, just some rca wires that you would have to connect to something and the question to what?

 

Well, I just typed out an essay into this box explaining the reasoning behind what I'm about to say, but right before I finished, I fat-fingered CTRL+X and closed the window.

Anyways, I don't have time to re-write it, so hopefully some of the other knowledgeable members on here would care to explain this, but;

Those in door enclosures are a good idea, but their size makes them a bad idea. Props for the ingenuity, but they are not nearly as functional as they are problematic. They are not a substitute for adequate sound deadening, and they will likely cause your speakers to become damaged.

 

I hope the speaker compartment you made isn't sealed from the door.
99% of speakers on the market are designed to be run in an Infinite baffle setup and by putting them in a sealed box will drastically impact their response curves, performance and sound
- Your lower freq spectrum will drop off much faster, i,e ur mid bass will suffer and your upper range freq may be louder in proportion