92Shawman's 1992 3VZ-E SR5 Pickup

Wow. I got my Auburn gear stuff and had it installed for less!

Of course, Troy works out of his house and seems to get hookup prices...

 

Yeah see if I was just doing the locker, the SD truck shop quoted me about $500, which probably would've been worth it for us. But the other shop I contacted wouldn't have installed anything without doing a diff rebuild since I had over 100k miles, hence the $900. A diff rebuild definitely sounded like a good idea, so we're doing that, too.

 

OK. Mine wasn't that complicated. But it's the right thing to do!

Are you going back to school soon?

 

I'll apply for grad schools towards the end of this year for starting in 2016 after my girlfriend finishes her service with peace corps.

Anyone have any thoughts on this pattern?? Looks pretty centered to me, which is good, but I'm not sure why there's such a straight line. The line is not at the very flank/root of the teeth, it's a little bit up from there.
Drive:
DSCN9832_small by 92shawman, on Flickr

Coast:
DSCN9833_small by 92shawman, on Flickr

 

Just found this description, which indicates that perhaps I need to increase the backlash. My pattern was set up with 0.006" backlash. The FSM says 0.0051"-0.0071" and the original before I took it out was 0.0077" so I think increasing the backlash is a good idea.

Notice the bottom right drawing looks a bit like my pattern:

 

There's a guy on the photo forum who's in Kyrgzstan with his wife. Looks like they're having a great time.

As far as the rest of it goes, I have no idea whether you need more or less backlash

 

That's pretty cool! We considered waiting to do peace corps until marriage but decided timing was better for her to do it right after graduating, since she graduated a year earlier than I did.

We increased the backlash to about 0.008" and the paint pattern looked better, so that's good. Then we got the pinion set and have pinion preload of about 12 inch pounds, which is perfect for the range between 9 and 14 inch pounds. The hard part is done!

 

You should ping Eric. It takes a while for him to respond sometimes but I love hearing about his adventures.

 

Sorry, ping?

 

Sign up & comment. Or PM. He's an interesting character.

 

Haha, gotcha. Yeah I'll check him out some more!

 

Whelp, all that's left is to add oil, torque the drive shaft bolts, and bleed the brakes!
Then for a test drive to see if the gears are all set up right...

 

Whoot!

 

Test drive successful!
Man that was exciting. Now to find a dirt road...
Oh and to figure out why my parking brake light stays on...and to figure out what to do with my rear view mirror before Saturday morning

 

Anyone know if the frame mounts for the muffler get hot? Right now I've used those to attach my air line but my dad said they might get hot. I don't think they will since the muffler mounts go to those rubber pieces and then the rubber pieces attach to the mounts on the frame cross member, so the rubber piece should isolate the heat, but I could be completely wrong...

 

I don't have a laser thermometer, and I'm not sure what the operating temp is, but they said to stay away from the exhaust. I figured that just meant don't be right next to it, but maybe even like 9 inches is too close. I'm going to us longer zip ties to shift the line up on top of the cross member so that it's shielded a bit. It was just a hair too big to use the supplied zip ties, so I was being lazy.

 

I reoriented the air line on top of the cross member so that it's shielded from the muffler a little bit.

And I went and got just a little stick-on rear view mirror so that I have something while I'm driving up to NorCal this weekend...I'll check out some junkyards when I get back.

I didn't figure out the problem with the parking brake light...I think there might be an electrical problem with the switch that the brake handle hits when the brake is off.

 

Can you back the switch off a bit or is the spring worn out?

 

How do you mean?
As it is there's basically a little flat piece of metal sticking off of the handle rod that hits against a pressure switch when it's all the way released and that pressure switch is supposed to turn off the dash light, I assume.
So are you saying that if that switch is farther away from the flat piece of metal it should work better?
Is there a spring inside that's supposed to push down and it's not?

It may be more complicated than I think...

 

My old 1985 had a switch like this. See how long it is? You can adjust it so that it works properly. The white part of the switch is spring loaded.