SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Thanks DP. Good to know. Appreciate the support.

 

You are totally right. It is always frustrating when you look back at all the "Could I have caught that?" situations. The thing is you have played the smart role in this. You have done research and not just blindly accepted what was put in front of you. I'm going to keep my eyes on this and see what you find out from your mechanic on the injectors.

 

Just wait for the injector report Jen. All you can do.

 

Well if the pump is good, and the FPR is downstream of the injectors, it really leaves the injectors as a primary suspect.

I know how frustrating this can be, I once got three bad rebuilt alternators in a row on a job once, or every BBD carb body I sourced was bad in a different way.

I suspect that the answer will be found soon...and hopefully soon enough.

I once had a hard start issue on a old six cylinder dodge truck, and after days of parts replacement and trouble shooting, it was found to be nothing more than the relined gas tank shedding it's liner and clogging the intake pipe

Oh, my standard rule in mechanics? if after a repair, it doesn't work in a different way, look at work you DID do...

 

Thank you guys!

Hurray, my cheering committee is clocked in, thank you!!!

 

I know Mod, thanks. It's just tough to not try to prepare for the next step if they come back OK, considering the number of times we were SO SURE we'd found the culprit, then sat on pins and needles waiting to find out that nope, that wasn't it either. So I just keep thinking, OK, what's next if they are fine. Then I start to fall apart, because then we are rehashing stuff that's already be done/checked/replaced. But yes, there's always a chance that THIS time, we really will have found the culprit, and my little internet meltdown will have been for nothing! Embarrassing, but ultimately would be awesome!

 

Love this hetkind, thank you!

 

Down to the nitty gritty. Regulator was checked and found to be in proper working order. Pump has been swapped and checks out so far. The last major piece of the pressure loss puzzle is those little guys. #6 was leaking down, and somehow I now suspect there may be another one that is not right. I secretly hope there is another bad one,,but don't hate just yet. It usually takes two to tango your motor like it sounds, from the vid. Get those back and in and try again.

Jet it rip,,have a meltdown or two,,vent, but vent with restraint on here. The worst would to be booted off at this point in time. Savvy?. We all pop a gasket now and again, it comes with the info you have learned and wrenches turned.

 

Totally agree, there could be functional (spray pattern) issues not seen in just a leakage test. Fingers crossed.

 

Good advice. Definitely would not want to be kicked off. Do they do that for cursing, or just being a jerk, or what? All of the above? I'm certainly guilty of both, especially this morning. Not my proudest moment, that's for sure. In addition to apologizing on the thread to the guy I unfairly lashed out at this morning, I also PM'd him an apology in case he didn't see the one on the thread. Will try harder to think before typing next time I'm feeling this frustrated......

 

OK, I don't even completely understand what he's getting at, but my husband just emailed this to me (see circled portion in attached file) as his theory of the day - these are his exact words:

"If you rev the engine to 900-1300 rpms for 10 seconds, your idle speed is supposed to go back to normal range after you let go of the gas pedal. next you unplug the hose in that diagram, and plug the end tight. Start the engine and check that the idle speed reaches 500 rpm or below (the engine may stall). If the idle does not reach 500 rpm or below, check for a leak between the air assist hoses, pipe and injectors.

basically this means it is drawing air through a hole someplace (a vacuum leak). seems like an easy and free test to me"

 

Yes, simple test and it could "contribute" to your starting problem. Typically a leak there would affect idle characteristics at all times. Definitely worth checking with respect to the condition of the other hoses.

 

Thanks DP, will mention this to our mechanic, along with other items we discussed, should the injectors turn out fine. Thank you!

 

I'm waiting with baited breath for the next update. I love this thread. I even love the drama. Its better than General Hospital, which I was addicted to when Luke and Laura were big...I was a latch key kid with no cable. Please don't tell anyone.

 

You're telling me. I've read every post. I don't know what half of it means, but damned if I can't stay away.

Hang in there Jen! Almost time for a spa day.

 

Thanks guys.....sorry to anyone I offended with my outburst this morning.

K, you do realize you just announced to the entire world your deep, dark secret indulgence? Ha ha ha! I love it!

Pee Runner, thanks! Can't believe you actually read every post! AND admit that you don't know what half of it means! Join the club! Maybe if I understood all of it, my truck would be fixed by now! Trying my best to let all these smart dudes learn me, but still, lots of it passes right on over...especially when we go to the deep dark world of circuits and ECU issues.......

Thanks to both of you for admitting your embarrassing secrets, now I don't have to feel embarrassed alone today!

I'm going to try to take a nap now. I think that's a big part of where my outburst came from this morning......remember when you asked me way back when if I ever sleep K? And I said yes, quite a bit? Not lately......so it's time to fire up the next season of Boardwalk Empire and try to zone out for a bit (phone on the nightstand of course)!

 

Thanks. I work on so many different vehicles I keep forgetting the 1st gen has the FPR dump fuel rail pressure rather than limit fuel rail pressure. DERP. My bad. But I do disagree that no drop in pressure at max fuel demand is a proper measurement of fuel flow.

 

Nap's not working. OK everybody, here's a new approach - if the injectors come back fine, and you had ONE question you could ask our mechanic, or suggestion to make of what to look at next, what would it be?

GO!

Don't be shy. I'm more lost than any of you, I guarantee that. And I promise I won't get all evil like this morning, even if I don't like what you say.

Here's a refresher:

Remanufactured engine put in, as well as a new AFR gauge
Runs great, but hard warm starts
IAT is always 60+ during hard warm starts, and the higher the number, the longer the crank time
When MAF was pulled off, started right up during what should have been a hard warm start time EDIT then accelerated and engine sputtered
When mechanic held throttle open during typical hard warm start time, started right up
Fuel pump replaced
Fuel pressure regulator replaced
Injectors cleaned/tested (supposedly); they are now being rechecked
IAC valve cleaned/tested; then swapped with another one just in case

EDIT: DID NOT HAVE HARD WARM START ISSUE PRIOR TO ENGINE SWAP/INSTALLATION OF AFR GAUGE

 

Fine, I'll go first.

Could this be something with our EVAP system? How can you test that? Do we need a smoke machine to be 100% accurate in diagnosing an EVAP issue?

I'll go for my husband too:

Could there be a vacuum leak somewhere?

 

4 and 6 were bad