Long Travel BS Thread

Bfg At

 

KM2's. Not sure if I would suggest them to a 2wd in sand though. They like to dig. Granted I am heavy and on a skinny tire. They do pretty good for me in the sand though, but I'm always in 4wd.

 

Well got off the phone with strange they will ship me back free of charge, and they are recommending a seal retainer for off-road use. guess ill give them one more shot.

 

still running my mickey thompson Baja Claws. They grip awesome but suck cause they are directional, and ive shattered both of my mirrors cause they love to throw rocks everywhere.

 

What's everyone's opinion on running 3.0 bypasses in the rear. Or is 2.5 plenty and 3.0 a waste of money?

 

Also guys,

I've been looking at shackle flips and new leafs and such which led me to shock relocations... It seems to me it shouldn't be too hard to fab up my own. Think I could mount it to fit a 14" or would that just be insane?

 

Did they not know it was going on an off road application???
Why did you go with Strange?
Don't know many guys that race off-road that use Strange. (since you said you plan on racing it soon)
I know a couple guys with Dragsters that run their stuff. But Im just wondering why these guys are now suddenly recommending a Seal Retainer and they seemed confused when you called them.
I only have ran Currie. No problems in 15 years

 

Depends on if you are planning to go through the bed or not. 14" is a pretty tight fit without going through the bed.

If you are going through the bed the sky (or your wallet) is the limit. I'm running 18's.

 

No difference if your valving is correct.
Would probably be a waste if you are just doing fun trips.
Ive raced with both 2.5 and 3.0's in the rear. Only difference is the shocks heat up in the Long Summer races if im in the truck over 5 hours and weather is 90 degrees or more.
The 3.0 had 4 tubes so you can adjust a little more, which is nice. My truck is smaller and a single cab. A little different than yours. But Overall, 2.5's should be plenty with correct valving IMO.

 

I have 3.0's. You forget about how much they cost after about a month. The best part about them in increased service intervals because they stay so cool. I go two years before a rebuild, about 30K miles, and the fluid is clear and clean, the wear bands are still good, etc. My front 2.5's barely make it through one year before puking oil everywhere. I also think the 3.0's are easier to tune.

 

Strange is very well known in off-road trucks, stronger 3rd member case then the Currie case. I have a strange in mine without a seal retainer, been good for 3 years..

 

Thanks. I can't find any used 2.5s out there right now and keep coming across 3.0
I might just go that route.
And trust me I know all about hot shocks, I have 2.5 on my current canti set up, and let's just say those fuckers get real hot really fast.

 

Holy 18s yeah I dont want to through the bed... Hmm I'll see what I can do

 

BAMF's DIY shock relocation kit is $115 and will fit 12's.

http://www.bayareametalfab.com/2nd-Gen-Shock-Relocation-Kit_p_14.html

 

Yeah I was looking at that then thought... Hmm seems easy enough to make. Why don't I make it and figure out a way to mount it 2" higher

 

Because you will get into the bed... That's basically why BAMF's and Pelfrey's kits are built for 12's.

I only know of one 2nd gen running 14's without going through the bed and he built some shock hoops like Pelfrey's and crammed them up as close to the cab as he could. Being a long bed you may be able to do the same, but will you really need a 14" over a 12"?

There are probably a few 2nd gens running 14's that are triangulated under the bed, but I a not sure. There are a few 1st gens that are though.

 

Welp I actually think I got talked out of the shackle flip. I've been talking to people about them in Frankensteins build.
Here's my findings...

I think I should be just fine with the 12" shocks. I should gain a fair amount more downtravel in a correct way.

 

Because then it will be going through the bed.

There's not many ways to play the long travel game without losing practicality and DD worthiness of a vehicle. Long travel is fun and all but the best of both worlds (LT and daily driver) don't like to play well together; at least not without a lot of time and money put into it.

 

I follow that thread and saw the conversation as it happened. I would just stick to 12's if you are going to buy a bolt in leaf pack like the expos or dakars. I doubt you would need more than a 12" unless you go with something custom like the DMZ SUA kit or a 63 swap.

 

I know this... dumbass dakota strikes again haha

Welp looks like we're sticking to a bolt in leaf pack and 12s for the time being. I might consider a 63 swap but I haven't looked into it much yet.