Horrible Break Squeal

They pull the pads and inspect them during the state safety inspection?

 

In Va they hammer you on this shit and if you fail a 15 day notice to repair is issued....

Some facilities even try to hold the vehicle for on the spot repairs 2 years ago a Goodyear tire service center one driver took things into his own hands.It did not go well for the service Manager or the owner of the car.


Virginia Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Program

The Required Official Inspection Procedure, as approved by the Virginia State Police Superintendent, is as follows:

REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Annual Motor Vehicle Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

Worn, damaged or missing parts.
Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.
Leakage in system and proper fluid level.
Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or disc rotors.
(NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual” for exceptions.)
4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

Broken or missing parts.
Proper adjustment.
Standard factory equipment or equivalent.
5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, aim and output.
Condition of lamps, lenses, wiring and switch.
High beam indicator.
6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
Aim of fog and driving lamps.
Illumination of all lamps and proper color of lenses.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. (Include load when measuring.)
7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

Approved type, proper bulbs, and condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
Correct operation of device.
Illumination of all lamps and proper lens color.
8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR:
(Jack up front end as shown in “Official Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection Manual”.)

Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings and tie rod ends.
Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
Play in steering wheel; leakage of power steering fluid in the system.
Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
Broken coil springs, spring leaves and worn shackles.
Shock absorbers.
Broken or weakened frame.
Broken or missing engine mounts.
Lift blocks.
9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

Condition of tires including tread depth.
Mixing radials and bias ply tires.
Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.
10. – INSPECT MIRRORS FOR:

Rigidity of mounting.
Condition of reflecting surface.
Check for road visibility 200 feet to the rear. (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body.)
11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.
Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.
12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

Approved type safety glass.
Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.
Cracked, scratched or broken glass.
ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.
Sun shading material on windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures that does not extend below the AS-1 line is permitted. In the absence of an AS-1 line, sun shading material on the windshield displaying words, lettering, numbers or pictures cannot extend more than three inches downward from the top of the windshield, unless authorized by the Virginia Department of Motor Vehicles and indicated on the vehicle registration.
Operation of left front door glass.
13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

Operating condition.
Condition of wiper blades.
14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

Exhaust line: manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
Leakage of gases at any point from engine to point discharged from system.
15. – INSPECT REAR LICENSE PLATE FOR:

Illumination of rear plate.
16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

Operating condition of hood latch.
Presence of emissions system; evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.
Fluid levels that are below the proper level:
(a) Brake fluid.
(b) Power steering fluid.
Power steering belt; proper tension, wear or absence of belt.
17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM OF 1973 AND SUBSEQUENT MODELS FOR:

Installation.
No parts removed, disconnected or rendered inoperable.
(NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)
18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Anchorage.
Location.
Condition.
19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

Approved type.
Installation.
Condition.
20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:

Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or
The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or
Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or
If the air bag indicator fails to light or stays on continuously.
21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.
Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.
22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

Any part that is not securely fastened.
Liquid fuel leakage.
Fuel tank filler cap for presence.
23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.
Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.
24. – ISSUE STICKER:

If approved, place completed approval sticker on the vehicle and give the receipt of certificate to the operator.
ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS. THE DRIVER MAY BE SUBJECT TO RECEIVING A TRAFFIC SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL PRESENT WHEN THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.
(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)

The maximum inspection fees are as follows:

$51 for each inspection of any (i) tractor truck, (ii) truck that has a gross vehicle weight rating of 26,000 pounds or more, or (iii) motor vehicle that is used to transport passengers and has a seating capacity of more than 15 passengers, including the driver.

$12 for each inspection of any motorcycle.

$16 for each inspection of any other vehicle, including trailers and motor homes.

NOTE: If you have a specific question with regard to motor vehicle safety inspection or inspection requirements, please refer to the Official Annual Motor Vehicle Inspection Manual, which is available through Virginia's Legislative Information System. It is comprised of Commonwealth of Virginia Administrative Code, Chapter 70 (MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY INSPECTION RULES AND REGULATIONS), Sections 1 through 680:1 and Forms.

Virginia State Police employees cannot give legal advice, nor interpret the law for members of the public. Information within this Web site is provided for general guidance purposes only and may not apply to all factual situations. Persons needing legal advice may contact Virginia Lawyer Referral Service at 1-800-552-7977 to be referred to a private attorney for a 30-minute consultation for a fee of $35.00.

 

Inpection sticker in the center of your windshield.

 

You are dealing with the front brakes how sure are you that it's not the rear? I believe that's what Toyota is fixing.

 

I checked and cleaned both front and rear. Rear looked okay just really dirty... Like really dirty. Front had the crack. Rear brakes will probably be replaced in another 5-10k miles

 

For the inspection, they just usually poke a mirror or inspection camera through the spoke and check. Same for the rear(adjust hole)... never seen anyone pull the tires to check the pads.

As for your breaks. Is the little metal tab rubbing the disk? The one that lets everyone know your breaks need replacing by the loud squeal.

 

something I done. remove calipers, take 80 grit sandpaper place against rotor and turn rotor to knock the glaze from them and clean with brake cleaner. the pads lay the sandpaper on something flat and run the pad over it, I don't spray the brake cleaner on the pad , spray it on a rag and wipe off

 

No tab is rubbing. My front brakes have plenty of life left.

 

Not sure what kind of break pads you have or what you ordered but don't go "lifetime" or similar. You want these to wear out from normal use. OEM's are just fine...

This is just a guess but, pads that are too hard could be associated with the "glazing" mentioned above...and yes, I have sanded and cleaned brake surfaces...Good luck!

 

I was suggesting it may be bent

 

I'd check to see if there's enough of that anti-squeal lube stuff on there. If the brake pads are dry, then that could cause it. And that cracked pad? WTF??? How old is it? Is it under warranty for replacement?

 

Any bent brake dust covers rubbing? I've seen them get bent after tire rotations... make sure they are not rubbing.

 

Oh okay. I gotcha.

It's not super old. I went ahead and ordered new ones and rotors. And no, not lifetime pads. Is anyone dumb enough to buy lifetime pads? They're many to wear out

 

Sorry... saw this and had to post it here

 

Wow... Yeah I don't have that problem. Yikes

 

Yes on at least 1 front wheel and 1 rear wheel.

 

If it is that bad a squeal try your parking brake lightly and see if it does it then at least you will know where it is coming from. Front brake squeal is caused by the vibration of the pads against the caliper piston, does it still have all the parts that belong behind the pads? If some thing is touching it will do it with out applying the brakes.

 

That is a lot of work for 16 dollars. Bump that, I would not do state inspections for that amount of change. It just encourages shops to up sell and pick stuff you have to have repaired ... and hopefully let them do the work.

 

Lessee... the friction surface probably won't dissipate heat very well in that area so it could 'hot spot', cooking off binder material glazing the rotor degrading braking performance. Possibly permanent due to uneven rotor wear... such that you have to replace rotors or cut them leaving them thin and susceptible to warping so you end up replacing them anyway. Too, as the pad continues to wear it will possibly break off leaving a low spot reducing swept area... and decreasing braking performance on that one side so it pulls to one side.

It can't be a good thing, that's for sure. If I had the pads out anyway I'd certainly replace it.

 

Miles are somewhat irrelevant. Braking use is what matters. If you drove cross country on the interstate, your brakes get little use. Drive the same miles in downtown metro areas and you'll have a lot more wear (on everything!)

Not saying it doesn't need new rotors. Just saying that 'because miles' is not a real reason. Prime reasons include being deeply grooved or worn beyond the spec that is cast in the edge of the rotor.

Many (not all) modern rotors are no longer worth turning, because you can buy a new one for a few $ more than the turning costs, even if you R&R the rotor yourself and take it to a machine shop.

Whatever you do, be sure you follow a proper break in / bedding process on your new hardware. You can read about it on sites like Stoptech.