InTheRough's Truck (Formerly PepsiManKolt)

Came out great!

 

oh my word that looks nice. props man.

 

Looks slick! Any provisions for a water separator like the ARB?

 

Thanks guys. I'll post up once I have some more time to work on the grill/deflector.

I build the bottom just a little lower than the intake tube and have a tube that I still need to connect to alow the water to drain.

 

Sick man

 

He does not have a smog pump either. I wounder if you had 1 it would suck in water and there for defeat havinga dorkal.?

 

so your water drain is at the bottom of snorkel?? I'm so intrigued

 

What do you mean by a smog pump?

Ya, I got to impatient to do it earlier. I have it made, just not attached yet.

 

darn it why you keep us waiting

 

I'm not even sure if it's really called a smog pump at this point I've heard to it referred to as a secondary injector and a cold air start pump where your electronic brake distribution center is right in front of that should be a little pump that connects to your manifold, or shouldn't be at this point I don't know why some of them have them and why some of them don't I do not know that either. manwithoutaplan and knows what I'm talking about and a few other people on Tacomaworld know what I'm talking about but no one can come up with a straight answer

 

I hope this gives you a better idea. I still need to come up with a water trap. I can get Pelican Micro cases for like $10. I'm thinking about using one of those to be able to drain it easy.

So it's an additional intake port? I wonder if it is one of those state emission code additions.

 

I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the state emission codes but why do earlier models have it and later models have it and Inbetweeners like mine and manWithoutaplan or you dont.and from what I'm told all four cylinders came with it

 

wont that let water in then? The arb one is designed to expel water from the intake head.

 

I know Safari has small holes at the base of their head but I highly doubt that much of the water is removed by that. It is currently open ended and, yes, as it is it would allow water in but I am working on a water catch with a check vavle. That way water will be able to leave the snorkel but will not be allowed the opposite way.

 

Make me one

 

Lol just as project you learn things alot the way. If I were to do it again, I would definitely change aspects.

This one has satisfied my craving to play with fiberglass. At this point I'm over it. Too many little issues and mistakes here and there.

I am glad I did it but doubt I will do it again.

 

Sorry man. I am sure you will either buy or make one sooner or later. It would definitely be hard making another one for a vehicle that is not near me. It's not like we could meet up so I could help you with it.

I am definitely not a pro at fiberglass but these are just a few tips that I have learned over the last two projects:

Don't use the pink foam from Home Depot as your foam core.
It did not melt like it was supposed to.
The resin started to melt it prematurely.
It made a huge mess of my garage.

3m spray adhesive 200 is an easy quick way to adhere the layers of foam.

A serrated or dry wall knife is nice to cut off large sections of foam but an angle grinders with a harbor freight flapper wheel does a great job of smoothing without removing too much foam.

Use a heat gun (or hair dryer) on areas you want to cure faster

Apply a generous amount of resin before applying the cloth.

Fiberglass fabric is great for a clean look but can be hard to form and ends up fairly thin. Fiberglass mat as a little more rough final texture but tends to end thick and sturdy.

Don't "bite off more than you can chew". If you use too large of a section of cloth section it will be hard to mold around the curves. Use smaller strips where the curves are.

If you decide to use a body filler, like Bando, to smooth out the final look, mix the Bondo 2:1 with resin. This will make the Bondo a little thinner allowing it to be brushed on, is less likely to crack in temperature changes, and is much easier to sand then plain Bondo.

 

I am battling myself. Do you guys think it would be worth switching out my aftermarket Vision Raptor rims for Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser rims painted black? They have identical specs; 16x8, 6 on 5.5, 0 offset and 4.5" BS. The FJ rims are $200 + what ever work to swap out. Eventually, I would like to get a set of 16" beadlocks with 4"-3.5" backspacing but consideringthe price I don't think that will be happening any time soon.

Vision Raptor:


FJ80 rims:

 

If your waiting for them to pop up on ebay or CL then they can be had for a nice deal, but if you're going to buy new there are so many better options out there for the money. You might be better off derping what you've got if your looking for a short term change and keep saving for what you really want.