TORSPD: NEVR

Thats cause it had just been started? Im just saying if you let it sit an hour before going out there to undo the filter the probability is that it just drained back and i wouldnt sweat it at all

 

Well once you started it you filled the filter full of oil again so that wouldn't be comparable to now.

I've always had oil come out of the filter but I don't think I have let it sit that long. I usually throw some good gloves on and change it hot.

 

And we have a winner! Ha.

I dont let mine sit either, just go at it, its not scalding hot, just really warm

 

I like the motor 100* or less

 

Any particular reason? The warmer it is the more fluid it is so it drains better so it should clean out a little better. I usually take my oil cap off before I pull the drain plug to allow some airflow in the top as well.

 

I have access to a garage, i don't mind leaving the truck sit for two hours and let it all drip out if need be.

I have plenty of header burns on my arms from changing oil HOT on classic cars, not my favorite thing to do.

 

They solved it. What kind of filter do you use?

 

$16 K&N HP-1002 K&N Premium Oil Filter: 20000 Mile Engine Protection with Wrench Off Nut: Compatible with Select 1981-2023 FORD/LINCOLN/TOYOTA/VOLKSWAGEN Vehicle Models (See Description for Select Models), HP-1002

K&N HP-1002

 

That should have an anti-drainback valve. I was thinking you might have had one that didn't. Either way, with that amount of sitting, it can still drain forward.

 

The oil level is spot on and always is so i'm not going to worry about it. Thank you for letting me clog the performance thread with my BS.

What is next for the beautiful, boosted Markmachine?

 

All good mate.

Two things actually. Still waiting for my good friend to have the time to repost the OEM fuel pump data, so that I can share it here as well as on XRU. It is very valuable information.

Also, my LOCAL machinist has finished my torque plates. I am heading to pay for those in a few hours. This way i will have my own set and won't have to go through this crap again. It also means that the machinist is ready to do a fresh hone the two blocks. What means that my engines are that much closer to being back in my hands.

Other punch list items: re-tube the drive shaft 3/4" longer, change out half of my clutch line to a -4AN, and install my catch can. Then it'll be time to start saving for some custom rear wheels which are much wider, and possibly even a rear 4-link setup.

 

Having your own torque paltes

Needing more traction are ye? Damn...

 

These Nitto NT05's are 275's, and right now at ~400 whp and ~450 wtq, they are at their limit. Unless doing a higher speed pull. At 475 whp, the 275's would easily break traction. Needs more meat out back, to lay that power down. Especially once the built engine is back in! Otherwise I'll be laying freeway tire patches. Lol.

Yeah, finally have my own torque plate. They found out a way to be able to use just one plate, for both sides, instead of making one for each. Saved me $400. This way, when the time comes, Lucario Runner will also be able to use it as well. Win win!

 

Here ya go! Just get them siped for daily driving

 

I was thinking ET street radials lol

 

Thanks for scaring the crap out of me BradyT88 this week with zoom zoom boom ebay turbo. Found a used water cooled ball bearing turbonetics near me. No shaft play, only used a year, and a slightly smaller than my setup so I'll spool up faster now. Even comes with an external wastegate if I have the room for it. It was off a scion TC so I just need to do some measurements.

 

If anything, Turbonetics should have a different turbine housing that should work more closely with your current setup. I would think so at least.

 

Being that it is ball bearing and a tad smaller, it will spool considerably faster. Might even have s/c like response.

 

Disco potato style! So fun with instant boost!