SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

even if that's not it, its a good investment to make on a new motor and you truly will have everything on the motor brand new then. proceed with our blessing on that

the only hole I see in your theory is the wires either work or they don't, there is no middle ground there. the coil pack (which is just a continuous copper wire wrapped around a magnet) also either works or it doesn't but the coil can go out when it gets hot and after sitting for an hour as it cools down maybe it doing it then but this would have nothing to do with time so if this were it, it would act up hot or act up cold but have nothing to do with something that happens only around a set time period and not if you wait longer. that said there could always be the rare exception and you do seam to attract rare situations

 

http://www.engine-misfire.com/how-to-check-fuel-injector-pulse-using-a-noid-light/

OK fine, I'll let you guys in on why I'm convinced now........see article, scroll down to where it says this:

"Here I am checking injector pulse a 1992 Chevy truck. This particular truck would start and run just fine but would not start back up after turning it off and letting the engine sit for about 20 minutes (hot soak). During this time when it would not start back up, it would not have injector pulse or spark. We replaced the distributor and the ignition control module and it was good to go!"

Been thinking it was those all along for a variety of reasons previously mentioned in the thread, but reading this was enough to absolutely convince me. And I think there's one other factor here affecting them that I'm not allowed to say just yet, but that's a good thing anyway, cuz this will keep y'all in suspense.........

I seriously think I just diagnosed this shit myself. What kind of award or certification do I earn if this is it?

I know what I win! I win a truck that works right finally!!!

And it's gonna be sooooooooo crazy if this is it for soooooooo many reasons. I asked engine mechanic to be VERY sure our coil packs were good, and told him we'd be totally up for new ones if there was ANY doubt. He assured me they were fine. But even if this is it, it's not his fault, because I hammered this particular point so much with him that he finally said, "Jennifer, if you're telling me putting in new coil packs will help you sleep better at night, we can do that" and I said, well, hmm, they're not free, so if you're sure they are testing fine, lemme think about it. And that was the end of that.

DUDE, I swear, I just have this gut feeling, THIS IS REALLY IT!!! And now we can't do a damn thing til mechanic gets back, CRAP!!!!!

 

IM rooting for you!

 

Thanks K! Just emailed article and R. Auto options to husband, he's gonna email me to tell me exactly what we need (Denso only of course, you know how we are parts snobs!), then I'm calling around to local places to compare pricing/timing options on everything.

Do you guys think changing out coil packs and wires would screw up our mechanic's resetting the ECM and trying to get some codes set? Husband said we wouldn't have to disconnect battery to swap those items, so he thinks it wouldn't mess anything up. Anyone know? We are absolutely dying to swap those things NOW, but on the teeny tiny chance it doesn't fix it, would hate to screw up what our mechanic is trying to accomplish. Plus, would kinda be good to make sure his "test" is seen through to the end even if this is the cause of the starting issue, cuz who knows, maybe we ALSO have ECM issues!

I swear you guys, I AM CERTAIN THIS IS IT (coupled with that other secret factor that we can EASILY fix ourselves ) !!!!!!!!!!!!! My Taco is talking to me, she's telling me this is it!

No crazy missing electrode lady jokes guys!

On a totally different note, check out this little teeny tiny amphibian looking dude hanging out on our back deck this morning! Never seen anything like this little guy, he's kinda cute!

Mod, I know we live on the "wet" coast, but good grief, is it normal to have amphibians living in your back yard? Our french drain that we finished up right before Taco died is pumping a river out to the street, and yet it's still a soggy wetland back there. Crazy!!

 

For an truck of that age, changing out the coil and plug wires is considered normal maintenance. But it must be a rather unusual type of failure mode to only fail on a delayed hot start...

Howard

 

Gotcha. I think that might be where the other tidbit comes into play....

And thank you for your opinion about changing those out regardless due to age - been asking that question to anyone who would read or listen, glad to get an answer!!!!

 

Do you guys think changing out coil packs and plug wires would screw up our mechanic's resetting the ECM in hopes of getting some codes set?

Husband said we wouldn't have to disconnect battery to swap those items, so he thinks it wouldn't mess anything up. Anyone know?

PLEASE I AM BEGGING YOU GUYS TO ANSWER THIS QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

It won't mess anything up, but those should have been changed out as part of the engine swap. Just pulling on the wire WRONG will destroy the carbon core.

I once had a problem with the coil on my 94 Toy pickup on DAMP days, the coil mount had rusted out, letting moisture into the coil and causing a misfire. It took me YEARS to trouble shoot. I only found it when it got bad enough to miss at idle, on a rainy day, and a shot of wire dry made it run right, and then it was just finding an aftermarket coil. This was before the days of easy parts from Rock Auto.

Now, NEVER pull on the wire, only on the boot. Reassemble with dielelectric grease on the connectors AND the boots.

Howard

 

THANK YOU!!!!

 

It's your truck. Change them out. The mechanic is not gonna mind. Go for it.

 

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/p...999-toyota-5vz-fe-3-4l-v6-hot-hesitation.html

This is a thread I posted a long while back, where the dude's issue was same as ours. I swear you guys, with our #3 issue back in '07 being solved with new coil pack, plug wires, and plugs - THIS IS IT! Can't explain why no CEL/misfire code, except maybe bad brain in addition to this? But we're covered there anyway


Here's the guy's opening post:
"Was wondering if anybody out there has had any experiences with a 1999 or similar Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6, hesitation or engine stumble on hard accelleration when warm / hot. Engine typical to 4Runners, Tacoma, Tundra, others..."

​

And his closing post:
"So here's a late follow up to the old misfire problem. Since origniating this thread, and as per follow-up threads I had a couple issues. First, a bad injector on cylinder 3, and secondly a compromised ignition coil boot on cylinder 3.

The injector I replaced some time ago, towards the origination of this thread. However, I limped along with the problematic ignition coil ($100 OEM) for a couple years by doing the following;

Pulling the spark plug and cleaning the carbon arcing from the ceramic, then reinstalling with a dab of dielectric silicon grease on the ignition (coil over plug) boot. This would last for some 6 months at a pop. Occasionally, the dielectric grease would fail, the engine would begin stumbling on cyl 3 again and the process would have to be repeated.

I finally replaced the coil this month at about 154,000 miles.

I could have regreased it again and kept on going, but figured it was time to end the experiment.

So, for those old Taco owners out there, keep a small tube of dielectric grease and a 10mm wrench in the glove box."

​

 

I am getting so jealous for some of those cookies!!!!!!

The "wheel" that the belt is going around is called the camshaft sprocket. If you look to the bottom right of the sprocket you will see a single "tooth" sticking out. That "tooth" is what passes by the camshaft position sensor to tell the sensor where the camshaft is in relation to the crankshaft. There is a small amount of gap allowable. Too big a gap and the sensor will not pick up anything.

As for the coils, it's not a bad idea considering the miles and such, and they do get change out periodically. I haven't found the spare set that I have. It's in one of my parts boxes from the shop...

 

Calling every auto parts store in the area......so far RA is WAY WAY WAY cheaper than any of them, so may go with that. Even though we'd love to get our hands on them NOW!

I just have this instinct about this, been thinking this for a looooooooooooong time....

Can anyone help me figure out if we need all of this? I know obviously 3 ignition coils, and we definitely want plug wires, basically we want to buy new of everything within this "grouping" of parts. But some of the stuff in the descriptions looks like some of the stuff included might overlap from one set to another. Hope I'm explaining that OK. Here's what I'm looking at:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2140914&cc=1317633
Ignition Coil - coil on plug x 3

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1035296&cc=1317633
Spark Plug (Coil-On-Plug) Boot - DENSO - $29 for all 3

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...460&cc=1317633 - EDITED - had the wrong link initially, DERP!
Spark Plug Wire - DENSO - $24 - Complete Ignition Wire Set - 5mm

 

Thank you so much Bama!! You can still change your mind about cookies, I'm sure Koditten won't mind if I take 1/2 of his to send to you!!

Right K?

 

Maybe you should check a spark plug or two too while you are playing around in the engine bay, considering what else has been found wrong with the rebuild so far. If they've already been checked forget I said that.

Oh, and like others have said, don't forget the dielectric grease!

 

Thanks for the tips Sterdog! Pretty sure our new mechanic looked at plugs and said they looked good.

YES, this grease sounds like a lifesaver, I keep seeing it mentioned with all sorts of stuff - gotta get some if husband doesn't already have any!!!

 

Can anyone help me figure out if we need all of this? I know obviously 3 ignition coils, and we definitely want plug wires, basically we want to buy new of everything within this "grouping" of parts. But some of the stuff in the descriptions looks like some of the stuff included might overlap from one set to another. Hope I'm explaining that OK. Here's what I'm looking at:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2140914&cc=1317633
Ignition Coil - coil on plug x 3

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1035296&cc=1317633
Spark Plug (Coil-On-Plug) Boot - DENSO - $29 for all 3

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=871460&cc=1317633 - EDITED - had the wrong link initially, DERP!
Spark Plug Wire - DENSO - $24 - Complete Ignition Wire Set - 5mm

EDIT: What I'm trying to figure out is, if I order:

--- a quantity of 3 of the first item listed (coil packs)
---a quantity of 1 of the second item listed
---a quantity of 1 of the third item listed

Will I wind up with duplicate parts of anything?

Gotta run to the post office, back in a bit........hoping someone has a minute to help me figure out the question in this post please please please!! Thank you!

 

I would think there should be a full set of everything for it and not have to buy parts separately but it looks like you have to buy them in one set for one side of the engine and the others you buy seperately

this looks to be the complete set for one side: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=871460&cc=1317633

the other side you would need 3 of the first ones you linked to http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2140914&cc=1317633
and the boots are just there to hold it and keep dust and dirt out of the hole otherwise they serve no purpose at all so if they are in good shape and not torn, dry rotted, or ripped, you just reuse those. pull them out one at a time and see what the boots look like if they don't fit snug, replace them all

keep in mind I don't have a 6 cylinder so I may not be accurate on what you need, not having seen it in person

 

Mam, did you or any of the mechanics ever find out if you have a vsv (vacuum switching valve) on your FPR, not the one on the evap canister,,, my truck has four if I remember correctly, vsv's, 1 on the egr, 1 for the evap, 1 for the ac, and 1 for the FPR.

The reason I bring this up again is, that is the sole purpose of the vsv on the FPR according to my FSM, but mine is a 95 mod., but the manual says, when the truck is hot, the vsv will increase fuel pressure for "hard starting" or something along those terms, if I was better on this stupid computer I'd copy it to this post. It stays energized for like a minute I think it says, then turns off by the ecm.

Food for thought

 

Thank you guys. Will review your posts again more thoroughly in a second here, but just got back and wanted to report a new symptom and see if it triggers any lightbulbs for anyone.......

I notice the truck "shudders" sometimes. There's no consistent pattern to it, and no noise. It happens when I'm idling at a stop light or something, and like I said, it's random, but I feel the truck sort of shudder slightly, best I can explain it.

I think I noticed this before when we had it back briefly in min January, but was so focused on the starting issue, that I never mentioned it.

Mean anything?

Keakar, I'm gonna check out that link you posted now. But I know for sure we only have 3 coil packs, and each one works for 2 cylinders. All 3 are in a row over above cylinders 1, 3, and 5, then I think those plug wires connect from those 3 over to the cylinders on the other side (2, 4, and 6). Not sure if that's what you were saying too, will reread your post.

Pulldo, thanks for the input. If I remember correctly, we ruled this out for some reason. I remember some posts back and forth with DP about it when you first mentioned it, and I think he was thinking we don't have the EGR or the VSV on the FPR. And I wanna say we ran this by the mechanic too, but honestly not 100% sure if we communicated clearly and specifically about what you are saying. Will see what I can find out, thanks again for bringing it up! From what you're describing, it sure does sound like a faulty VSV on our FPR (assuming we have one) could be our problem - that's what you're thinking, right?

Do you guys who order from Rock Auto a lot know if you can return stuff pretty easy? I assume return shipping is the customer's responsibility right, especially if it's because the customer was an idiot and ordered the wrong thing?