Power sliding window..again

I don't have a access to a 3d printer. so I have to come up with another way

 

All of the parts that I've put together that need to be printed can be printed at shapeways.com for a few dollars or you can use 3dhubs.com to rent time on someones printer near you. I would use shapeways.

 

subscribed - thanks for the efforts guys and sharing it with us. exciting stuff!

 

Hey guys, I just did a rendering of the complete assembly. Things are really coming along!

I'm going to investigate a few different ways to mount the limit switches at each end this weekend, hopefully we'll be ready for a full initial prototype very very soon.

Scratch's work has been awesome on this!!!

 

dude nice, I just saw the commit come through, well done! I'm back in town later on tonight and the weather is great, so I'm back on the job by tomorrow.
Assuming nothing has changed when I get home, I'll have the final BOM together with TXCottons arduino option and one for just relays. I'm leaning towards the arduino myself, but I'm a hammer and those are my nails.

 

My only question is, do you think it would be necessary to have a brace and bearing at the end of the rod to keep it stable at the end of opening and the beginning of closing? Just my thoughts not knocking it one bit, I love this idea and can't wait to have it on my DC. I'm just worried that even though there's a metal rod I think it might wobble a little and cause the glass attachment some stress. Good work guys. I'm keeping an eye on this one.

 

Unreal, I'm going to start checking my shop for cameras, good eye . I'm working on a mount right now because the higher RPM does make the wobble more pronounced than I would like. It's turning out to be a little tricky because I don't want the screw to be exposed when the window is open, so would love any suggestions.

 

This looks like a promising way to make our windows in the rear power enabled. I hope this goes through. I would be more then willing to either get a kit designed for me or have you guys assemble a kit for me to make it work!

 

How about some kind of boot that the "nut" pulls while it opens?

 

Is the boot to keep the screw from getting exposed or to keep the shaft from vibrating?

 

Hey @TXCotton, what do you think about a PWM soft start and stop on the arduino? Moving to 800 RPM is really making this shaft vibration an issue, I'm wondering if a soft start/stop would eliminate most of it.

 

Exposure

 

yeah, the trouble I ran into when I first tried it out is that the screw is long enough that unless you support the boot material, it ends up bunching and gets wrapped around the screw. I tried a few different materials, but since we're talking about 18 inches of essentially unsupported travel, I wasn't able to make it work.

 

Here is what I came up with to fix the wobble. It's possible though that this piece will be visible from the cab, so I taco'd it. The lead nut is on the left and the braces are just 8mm guide holes. The entire assembly is 150mm or about 6 inches.

 

I still don't want to rain on anyone's parade but it just seems like a rack attached to the window frame driven directly from a gear on the motor shaft would be much simpler than the whole lead screw thing.

 

@scratch and TXCotton, what if you mounted the motor to the sliding window and the stationary point on the solid part of the glass and the motor pulled itself toward the passenger side of the window eleminating the the visibility of the screw?

 

Maybe it's already been answered but Is this possible to use on an access cab?

 

I think I might have mentioned this earlier, but Rack and pinion is actually how this whole thread started. The trouble we run into is that in order to keep proper pressure and tolerance between the rack and the pinion, we need to use a material other than something we can 3d print, and most likely, would need to be something that would be machined. The other issue I ran into is that the pinion would require solid mounting to the structure of the truck which removes the no modification goal. I'm happy to look at rack and pinion again if anyone has some ideas, but it would change the context of the setup at which point a power window regulator is a much better choice.
cheers!

 

Should be, the entire setup just mounts to your back glass.

 

The only rub there is that the wires that control the motor and servos will be moving and have a high potential of getting caught on something. maybe if I did some wire loom to keep them protected.