SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

I don't want to reread all the postages, but, have you had the ECU completely tested for full functionality...

I had a VW that needed an ECU, swapped one in and it ran like shiza, got another, it worked at it should have...just a random thought cause the brains have to operate right for the body to move, so to speak...

 

I'm wondering if there is an ECU issue as well. The way the thing was running 2 days ago should have popped up the check engine light. Time will tell.

 

Maybe I read this wrong,, or interpreted it wrong,,but if you need a tow truck,,get one. You already know this but, don't keep going if it doesn't sound right and it's lurching and missing. He might have meant no towing loads behind the truck with a trailer till you get some miles on the motor. I dunno, maybe I read that wrong.

You should be fine after driving it back home like that. Sounds like it was very intermittent with the lurching.

 

This is it! this is what the problem is guys!!

Thanks for the laugh Keakar!

 

You still might be onto something though Steve, since our taco's brain is even in question at this point.....will keep this in mind. Thank you!

 

Yep, the irony of that is pretty damn awesome! Must try - Buffalo Trace!!

Right hetkind?

I had a few of those last night, and we were giggling like little kids out in the cab proposing all sorts of wacked out theories about the Taco....good times!

 

Yep, we might have this problem, like K is wondering as well, and many of you too.

Our mechanic reset the ECM ~1 week ago, in hopes of getting a code while we drove it for a week or so while he's out of town. But, we were asked to not mess with anything (so we didn't "upset" what he's trying to accomplish) but we don't know when he'll be back, and we kinda had to switch those coil packs and plug wires because we KNEW that was at least the cause of the lurching/rough idle, which is what happened right before piston hole, so we couldn't keep driving it like that and he wanted us to get some miles on her while he was gone.

 

Does anyone know the difference between -

"resetting the ECM"
"flashing the ECM"
"clearing codes from the ECM"

 

Thanks Mod. I know, I think I need to review the instruction they gave us, I'm thinking you're right about what they meant on towing.

And yes, if we are sure something's f'ed up, we probably just need to tow no matter what. It was a tough decision that day, because the park is only about 5 miles from home, so even though I was super nervous, I felt like if I drove slowly, hopefully all will be OK.

Thank goodness it was!! Forgot to mention yesterday, when husband pulled plugs, we got lucky and piston #3 was all the way up at top, so we were able to shine a flashlight in there (didn't even need borescope!) and see that it looked fine - PHEW!!!

 

Forgot to mention this last night - we did get another coil pack from A Zone yesterday, and husband put it in last night - so that was 2 new coil packs plus new plug wires.

Guess what? We did see improvement with each coil pack being changed! No more rough idle, and husband drove it a little and no lurching. And the crank time seems to be decreasing. In fact, after 2 new coil packs were in, we started it at the hour mark, when IAT was ~80, and it started right up, like it used to back before this all started. We decided to do a 30 min start after that, and unfortunately it did crank more than it should, but not as bad as what it's been doing sometimes.

Also, that IGN (ignition timing) value on SG keeps going up significantly with each new coil pack. Not sure what that means, but it's certainly a change that is corresponding with those coil packs getting swapped.

Basically, we saw enough improvements overall with each new coil pack, so we decided, screw this, let's just go get a 3rd coil pack of that same aftermarket brand we've been getting at Auto Zone, then the Denso that arrives from RA on Tues can be our "spare/back up" one, or maybe we'll look at returning it. We just couldn't wait to find out if this still could be it, and the improvements we were seeing led us to believe it's still possible it's as simple as the damn coil packs.

Husband put in 3rd and final new coil pack this morning, then drained coolant, and is in the process of installing new thermostat now, then once that project is all buttoned up, we're going to start it.

Should know soon if new coil packs and plug wires were all it needed.....

 

Make sure the giggle valve on the t stat is positioned at 6 o'clock on the 3.4l!!


The 2.7l the giggle valve is set to 12 o'clock....it can be easy to get the two mixed up or not know they are each different.

 

Thanks man!! That's actually exactly the reason we did the thermostat - to be sure it was set correctly like you're saying, cuz we'd heard this is per FSM and that a lot of folks don't know about it. So on the chance that ours was set incorrectly by engine guys, we wanted to check. And figured for a $25 thermostat, may as well put a new one in while we're in there. The valve actually was set correctly, so it still doesn't explain why we've been running at ECT of 200+ all the time, sometimes as high as 207. I know there's a range of what's "normal" for this, and getting up above 200 is not insanely abnormal, but being that we're at the point of splitting hairs over stuff, seemed worth looking into.

Which brings us to our next update - since jiggle valve WAS correct before, so it doesn't explain why we're running hotter, we decided to go ahead with swapping ECT sensor. We wanted to start it before doing that change, since it hasn't been started since swapping the 3rd and final coil pack, so we'd know what the culprit was if it fixed it. But since swapping the ECT sensor seems a lot easier when there's no coolant in it, plus the jiggle valve was OK and therefore didn't explain why running hot, he's switching that sensor now - figuring *maybe* if that sensor is f'ed up, it could explain why running hotter.

Then we'll start it. I'd expect it to start right up on the 1st go (hasn't been started since last night) but in ~30-60 minutes, we'll have the real test. So start crossing fingers in ~30-60 minutes guys!!

 

well lets get this out of the way

the jiggle valve does nothing and is there for one reason only, to let trapped air behind the thermostat escape so it doesn't form an air pocket of no water that can cause the engine to overheat. in the grand scheme of things it really wont make a big whupty-do no matter what position it is in as long as it works to bleed out the trapped air.

that said, its always going to let more trapped air out of the system if it is at the 12 o'clock because air bubbles float. beyond purging the water system after draining it there is nothing the jiggle valve does or affects. now most probably perhaps the jiggle valve position is noted to align the thermostat correctly for some other reason such as water flow patterns but its not about for the jiggle valve function.

if you are running hotter maybe there is air trapped in your heater core, this is a very common issue but it "usually just causes no heat in the truck, not really engine overheating. that might be a sticking thermostat, even from a new one. a quick way to confirm this is just remove the thermostat and run without one for a few days (it will take longer to warm up but wont hurt anything as long as you wait for the engine to warm up before driving) and see if it still overheats, then put the stat back in or replace it with a new one if the truck is no longer overheating. if it still overheats without the stat in then your radiator is not flowing correctly and may need flushing or replaced.

 

The memories we are creating here is just awsome! I have to say I'm gonna miss this thread when the truck finaly gets fixed.

 

When you get the coolant back in and the truck is up to temperature, squeeze the shit out of the radiator hose. It will aid in getting rid of any air pockets. Do it slowly if you have the rad cap off. You can burp out coolant if you are not careful.

With that said, I need to get me one of those vacuum coolant fill tools.

 

don't tell jen, but every night I sneak over there and break something new on her truck so we can make this thread last forever

by the way, did jen get post #1500? I told her since she missed out on #1000 that #1500 was going to be reserved as hers

 

Thanks Keakar. We put in the new one as the FSM says to - 6 o'clock. When in doubt, I'm going with what it says, period.

But yeah, I see what you're saying about a sticking thermostat, which was part of why we got that new one. The parts guy where we got it said the same thing, about it possibly sticking. Crap, just reread the last part of what you said about running without one to find out, but he's already got the new one in. Pretty sure he'd shoot me if I go out there and tell him to undo it all....not sure where he's at - we'll find out now!

 

I concur. As we've noticed, Jen is a very detail, orientated person. Might as well do it to give her a bit of piece of mind.

Jen, do you know if the radiator has ever been changed?

 

you can say that again buddy , I sure as hell wouldn't want her auditing my taxes .

well heres the deal, before I start looking at the radiator I would run it without the thermostat for these reasons:

1 - you can see good water circulation through the radiator and sorta (but not 100%) rull out any water pump issue or water passage blockage inside the block. if you don't see water flowing in the radiator then it might be a water pump issue or a blocked radiator

2 - maybe it was just a bad batch of thermostats and as rare as it is you might have got 2 bad ones in a row.

3 - its a lot less work to mess with the thermost then pull a radiator.

but bottom line is the new stat is in now so go see if that fixed it and we all hope so.

 

Having husband come in and read this and Keakar's recent posts in a sec here - he's in the middle of filling coolant right now.

Keep the advice coming guys, we sure can use it!

Keakar, stop breaking shit on my truck damnit!! I knew it was you!! You're gonna pay man

Yep, you're right, you would NOT want me doing your taxes! Miss Details for sure!!

We skipped changing that ECT sensor - once he had timing belt cover off, he saw that the sensor is *right* next to a wire going to a fuel injector - not worth possibly screwing that shit up!! We all know our luck with those damn things! He did test the ohms on the one in there though, and it checked out. ALTHOUGH, I asked him after if he used our free Harbor Freight tool to test it, or the neighbors fancy one - let me just say I don't feel we can cross that one off the list - can you guess which tool he used????

Keakar, Mod took 1500 - he's getting his ass kicked too!! Stop breaking my truck and stealing my posts you guys!!

After he's done with all the coolant/thermostat stuff, he's gonna look for that starter ground wire, already got hte skid plate off.