SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Gotcha. So EVAP/emissions stuff not likely the culprit since no CELs, UNLESS our ECM is damaged as well, if I'm hearing ya correctly?

DP, we did NOT change the ECT sensor. Husband chickened out because he saw how close it was to wires going to a fuel injector, and didn't want to take any chances on messing something up. Instead, he tested our old ECT, but he used our stupid Harbor Freight tool (had the neighbor's fancy one right THERE in front of him, but that's another rant ) - so I'm not ruling out a faulty ECT sensor. We're holding onto the new one (only $18) and will give it to our mechanic if he deems it an appropriate step.

 

Can you varify the throttle is at 10% when starting? You will have to pull the air intake tube to look.

 

Yep, if I'm understanding you correctly, that's what we think of as a "normal" start from the good old days before piston hole. Not an instant showroom start, and not excessive crank either. More of a 2 rev's type thing. And when we had truck between mechanics in January, it was never like that - either INSTANT start or excessive crank. Since changing those plug wires, coil packs, and plugs this weekend, we've noticed more starts like the good old days, with 2 revs, and it almost seemed like the excessive crank starts were starting to be a little less excessive even (instead of 10 seconds of crank, maybe 5ish instead type thing), but still nowhere close to normal.

Here's a random bit of info that may have all of nothing to do with anything:

Husband has noticed that the hood seems different since engine swap, in that when you pop it, rather than raising up ~1", it doesn't really raise at all. The mechanism to open it works fine, but it just doesn't raise like it used to when popped, so you have to really jam your fingers in to push the lever to raise it.

While throwing darts this morning, he told me about a Jeep thread he read where the guy had the same hard warm start issue, so he installed something to elevated his hood a bit. It solved his problem. But I told husband, hood still sits correctly flush with other body parts of the truck when closed, so how can any of that actually apply to our issue?

 

I gotta stop you right there! No knocking the HF multimeters! Those things work just great for checking resistance. I as well have a "stupid expensive" Fluke meter. 90% of the time I grab the HF meter.

If I knock it off the table, I never think "fuck thats gonna make and expensive noise". I just grab another out of the tool box. At $3 a pop, they are my got to meter

 

They took the hood off when changing engine. Its normal and almost impossible to align them as exactly as they were. They are adjustable. Back by the hing there is 2 bolts and the hood latch itself has adjustment. No big deal.

 

OK, I think we can do that. I said 10 based on what Scan Gauge says when we start it.

Are you positive about how the throttle should be open (meaning a higher number on Scan Gauge, right?) when truck is warm, because it should be told to open by ECM during warm times?

Oh geeze, I want to go do this myself right now. There's a serious storm going on here, my dog is totally freaked out hiding under my desk shivering, she's such a scaredy cat for a pit mix!!! She can't stand it when it's windy! Anyway, unless neighbor lets me use garage, thinking I'd better not go monkeying.....

How can we check/test TPS? Is it buried somewhere impossible to get to?

 

We've all been throwing darts since November Sorry couldn't resist.

 

Must tell husband about this, it will make his day! Thanks K!

 

Take care of the hound. My pets come first. I know I'm gonna get flamed, but I'm the owner of 4 adopted cats.

The truck will be there and it gives you some time to reasearch what I've typed. I'm sure there are inacuracies.

 

IIRC the "10" number is a degree figure, as in the degrees of the throttle plate angle at zero throttle, resting against it's stop.

 

That was what I was remembering when I would monitor my SGII. I want to know if the throttle is totally closed off when it says 10.

 

HA!! My pets come first too, but when I said that I was talking about ME!!! I don't wanna be out there in the wind and rain monkeying around under the hood in my crappy driveway!!! She'll survive the storm whether I'm here with her or not....but I may not survive the nasty weather in the driveway!!

Probably best to let husband check the TB anyway. Even though I've watched him disconnect all the crap over in that area a billion times in the last 2 months, I've never actually done it myself - talk about pissing our mechanic off! "ooops, I accidentally connected this fuel line to our ECM, you can fix that, right? Sorry!"

 

DP, whatcha thinking? Are we onto something here with this throttle plate position/TPS stuff? I promise I won't freak out if not.....

 

YOU GUYS!!! I JUST HAD A GREAT IDEA!!! Well, maybe - let's see what y'all think....

 

OK, ya know how I said we'd always get CEL for loose gas cap before engine swap? And we've yet to get a single CEL since engine swap, in spite of all sorts of odd stuff happening with the truck? Wait - that's not true - we did get one when we disconnected MAF and started truck, and sure enough 2 codes came up associated with MAF.

Anyway, what if I loosened gas cap on purpose, then started.....would that tell us ECM is working to properly monitor ALL EVAP functions, or just gas cap?

 

The SG throttle number should not change unless you put your foot on it.
I'm not sure about the response time for a SG but the #s should change in direct proportion to your foot. Smooth and even movement with no skipping or erratic moves. This is sort of the method for testing the TPS, just using the SG reading instead of a ohm meter. That test is in your book under SFI, throttle body. I think.

That should keep you busy for a while.

 

Damnit DP, I'm onto what you're doing here!!!

 

THIS!!!! THOUGHTS?

Meaning, if no CEL, then wouldn't it make it a whole lot more likely that our ECM is faulty? But if we did get CEL, not sure how much that would actually prove....

 

It might take 10 miles driving to make the light come. I don't remember how long it takes. Look how many people leave car running while gassing up.

 

Ahh, yes, true. Although I didn't know people left their cars running while fueling up, really?!?!??! That seems kinda dangerous?!?!?

Been reading a great Yotatech thread on throttle position sensor - posts 34, 35, 36 seem pretty right on....and we haven't replaced our O2 sensor, I wonder if we should? Husband was gonna try disconnecting that AFR gauge to see if any changes also...

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/1999-sr5-4x4-5vz-fe-idling-low-when-warmed-up-206543/index2.html