Bed Side Rail Cap System - NOW MADE FROM ALUMINUM

Any word on the long bed version?I was goin to pull the trigger on some stock plastic..but 120bucks for some shitty plastic ones doesn't seem like a good deal.

 

"You're killin' me smalls"

Any ETA on the LB version?

 

Very soon. Right after this cold snap breaks. We're looking at a high of -3°F on Sunday, so there's no way I'm standing outside measuring anything this weekend.

 

I don't blame you. It was 0 deg. here last night and something like -15 to -25 with the wind chill. Your fingers are more valuable than me having side rail caps.

I'm still interested in a no holes and no PC option if you are willing to do a set in your first batch. I'm happy to pay up front for the tailgate/side rail cap package. My PC guy should be able to match it pretty well.

 

Do these increase the overall limit of what the factory rail system can withstand? Given that its metal, I'd like to think it does. Being that it is thinner metal, I'm not sure how much more it would.

Anxiously awaiting LB version. This needs to happen!!! They look nice!

 

They won't have any effect on the strength of the rail system.

 

Ahh. So their primary function is just do away with the cheap junk plastic is all?

 

The side rail cap mounts by being sandwiched between the cleat rail, and the side of the bed, but the cleat rail and the side rail cap are two separate entities.

The purpose of the side rail cap is to replace the plastic factory cap.

 

I still want a pair. Extra strength would just be a bonus. No biggie.

 

This is sorta off topic, but KB, do you know of a good camper shell for a '11 DCSB that will work will with these rails and the tailgate cap? I'm trying to find something to protect my gear from the weather...

 

All camper shells will work with these rails and my tailgate cap, better than stock.

 

I've got a softopper on mine that I love. I planned to drill holes in the siderail caps when I get them and hard mount the softopper rails using countersunk rivets.

 

PM sent

 

There is another member here on TW that has the LB versions available now.

They are less expensive, and have no holes on the top. With the plastic cap taken off, you can see where the inner fenders are not painted, and perhaps moisture getting behind the fenders could cause rust.

Also noticed that the plastic caps do rub off the paint around the outer edges. The sooner the caps are replaced, the better.

 

Mine are twice as thick. The competitions version is way too thin.

Mine actually match the outside contour of the bed.

The holes will not promote rust in any way. Water gets under the factory caps and doesn't cause any problems.

 

sub'd for future

 

Anyone run these side rails with the Fold-A-Cover G4 elite? It looks like it will work but would like to know if anyone has tried it?

 

Somebody has, but I can't remember who.

It works well.

 

Do you have them without the holes on top!