Front bearing and hub search?

I am not convinced that the CV can preload the bearing in that fashion. BUT I don't think it can hurt! You could be right.. Hell torqueing lug nuts is for real. Look how many people say it is not!

How do the pre-runners get their preload if that's the case. They have the dust cover and the sub does not have splines.

I tightened that nut to specs, but never re-tightened it like I would on an old truck. If I ever have that problem again, which I will if I wheel like I used to. I will give it shot!

Although, each and every one of my failures to date was from usage. They all failed because the grease got contaminated or washed out, that seal does a pitiful job.

That really is the Achilles heal of the Tacoma offroad. Added to the backbone that has permanent osteoporosis and it is frustrating. But I feed it vitamins to keep the back healthy and tape up that heal when it fails because I love the stupid truck

 

I do not have the blueprint anymore. I used a sheet of diamond plate steel and some cardboard.

I made the halves, then cut the center to length so its is 2 pieces joined in the center and bent on the rest. I used 2x2 like a reviecer hitch for the reviever in the front. I started it for another truck and then modified halfway though for the Tacoma. It ended up being a little of a hack job.. But I know what I would do different now.

The bumper was fairly solid overall but the mount was not great, it used the factory locations, if I did it again I would add a bracket bracing it in additional places as the factory plates on the frame bent a little when winching and I hit something. Didn't cause damage except the mounts on the frame.

I was one of those, start it.. throw it aside to get dirty. Eyeball it and decide to make it work for the truck your working on now deals. All made with scraps and leftovers since I ripped the stock bumper off. My main goal was replace the bumper, with a little more clearance and add a receiver for my winch from the play truck.

That and the free lights I had were worthless. And looked stupid. :0



first template cut for the bolt pattern.

 

Its all about clamping bearing with specific force . If its not at the spec bearing will tweak and seal will not prevent grease from escaping and water from getting in.

Pre-runners have nut on the inside that screws on the spindle and thats how it clamps bearing. So adjustment would be there.

In my case I figure it, I will follow my wheelbearing process Toyota had on Solid axles. So I went back in and checked after 500 miles and sure enough it was fraction out of spec. Reason why Toyota had that on solid axles was that after bearing is installed, all races have to seat in correctly. If you did not do this bearing would run with too much play and ruin spindle.
Here I think it just makes seal not run in the grove and dumps all grease out.
I would say try it next time. Put new Mobil 1 grease before you install bearings, than go back and re tighten them after 500 miles.

 

Yeah that makes sense. If its not re-adjusted or checked after the bearing itself breaks in then It would, or could cause a seal problem with that seal between the CV and the spindle. I guess I was thinking solely on the actual load of the bearing, that in this case is pressed in vs retained by the nut and cap like in the past. I will definitely give it a shot next time. I did the wheel bearings on my mom's 4runner which work the same way and they lasted until she got rid of it. I think the stock ones were about 170k and when I changed them they went another 70 or 80k before she traded it on the Tacoma. Difference of course being that she drives lots of highway light duty and easy miles. Where I drive lots of heavy use, and offroad miles.

Another thing that can't help offroad is the tapered bearings being one unit they have to deal with all the load across about 2 inches. In the older trucks the tapered bearings were separate and spread out a little bit farther on the spindle.

Chalk it up to a poor design, one of those things they should have said no to but the bottom dollar won.

 

The pressing of the bearing sets the hub into position, and locks everything in. However the final torque of that axle nut is key, as it does set the final preload, and prevents the inner races from trying to "walk" on the hub. As mentioned the 2WD has a large backing nut that serves the purpose of the Axle nut on the 4X4 models.

Actually if you were to take a cross-section cut between the old system and the new system, you would find that there is much more "contact" surface on the new design. This allows for less "load" per square inch than the old design.