Show us what you tow.

Thank you both and you are welcome. Bikes would go in the truck bed or on the truck rack. All of the gear for a week of camping goes in the teardrop. Anything else (kayaks and gear, gas cans, hiking gear, fishing gear, saws and shovels, etc) go in/on the truck depending on trip location.

 

What is the length and weight on that? I have a Mini Lite 2306 on order right now. 23' long and about 3700lbs dry. Hoping the Taco will pull it okay...

 

First off, cool trailer.

Second, 75?

 

My Tacoma Is a chase truck. It pulls a trailer hauling the fuel that feeds this..... About 16.5k-17k depending, and 4,300# on the pin.

 

Not saying it is illegal, just not smart to travel that fast with such a big trailer.

 

Not only did he tow at 75, which is an unsafe speed in most peoples opinion when towing, but he did so without a weight distributing hitch so his front end had very little weight on it to steer .

I've never understood the people who will blow big money on a trailer, yet not put a few hundred dollars worth of weight distribution equipment on it to make sure you are towing safe.

 

this..both are supercharged!!

 

would it be possible to back the vette up on the trailer to get more weight above the trailer axle

 

I have the same size of trailer and I use a WD hitch. My trailer weighs about 3700 lbs unloaded, but you should also know that trailers are never towed unloaded. Propane, batteries, water, toys, food, and anything else you take with you in there adds significantly to your trailer weight. My trailer does not cause much sagging when it's setup properly and without the WD hitch the truck definitely rides noise high. That is a sign that weight is coming off the front of the truck and being transferred to the back axle, which is not a safe sign. Your rear axle becomes a lever and your front end loses braking and steering force. I'm just letting you know because you probably don't want to get in a situation that puts anyone else in jeopardy, no matter what the 1-800 phone guy said about your model of trailer. Tow how you like, it's a free country but don't assume we just commented for the sake of making you look foolish. I wanted to help

 

^ what Sterdog said...

we are just trying to help keep you and others around you safe. The combination of physics/geometry that Sterdog is talking about, and the unsafe speed you mentioned is a bad situation.

 

2004 Proline, approximately 4500#s loaded. Zero problems on the ramp.

 

I'll just make one comment on the tow situation and then be done with it.

One of the most oft comments made over on the rv forums by folks towing trailers with trucks they really shouldn't be pulling said trailer with is "it pulls it juuuust fine". Pulling it "just fine" is only part of the equation.

My camper (seen in earlier post) weighs a solid 16.5 - 17K ready to roll and I pull that with an '08 F-450. I've seen that exact same camper pulled by a fella using an F-250. He had no idea what his camper weighed, no idea how much weight was on the pin (IE-his truck), no idea his trucks weight rating, etc etc. The only thing he did know was that when he left the dealer he had to go straight to a truck garage to have air bags installed to get his truck off it's bump stops. His comment to me was that coming down from Canada it pulled it "just fine". Of course it did.

His truck had the exact same engine and transmission mine has, so power wise it's perfectly capable.

My frame puts his to shame, my rear axle makes his look like a toy, and my brakes are considerably larger. Suspension wise I can put 2-tons+ in the bed of my truck and only be kissing the overload spring.

Pulling it just fine is only the beginning. What really matters is how your truck can handle it's load when things go NOT just fine. Can you make an emergency lane change with a reasonable expectation to complete it in control and without ending up with the rubber in the air? Can you adequately stop the load without the assistance of the trailers brakes? They do fail. I've had electric trailer brakes fail on more than one occasion. A 2000 lb trailer shoved my 3/4 ton 4-door truck through a thankfully unoccupied intersection like nobodies business, and probably wasn't doing more than 25mph when I went to slow down.

I've towed with everything from a CJ-7 to tractor/trailer and I can tell there is not much I'd tow with my Taco without electric brakes and a decent WD hitch. My personal favorite is Hensley. Besides weight distribution it will completely eliminate trailer induced sway. Not minimize, but eliminate 100%. The trailer in question might not be all that heavy, but it does have quite a bit of vertical real-estate. When the wind gets into it, you might be surprised how much it can push you around.

This is not a heavy duty platform by any stretch, and I'd hesitate to travel so fast with that much camper behind it.

 

Yea I moved it further back before I got on the highway

 

Good insight. My friends make snide comments about using my sway control and buying am adjustable hitch for a trailer so small (5x8). The above info makes me feel validated.

 

No Trans temp on the sgII.

 

YES IT DOES, DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS GUY WITH THREE POSTS.

Wrong. YOU CAN GET AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TEMPERATURES FROM THE SCANGAUGE II!!! Sorry to yell, but that's literally the only reason why 90 percent of Tacoma Scangauge II owners have the Scangauge II lol.

http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge/toyota-specific/

I can't remember which ones work but one or two of them will depending on the model of your truck. I have transmission temps on my Scangauge from a 2nd generation Tacoma . X gauge lets you pull lots of information from the OBD 2 you normally can't get.

As for the poster reloader403, I'm sure he meant to say you can't get manual transmission temperatures from the Scangauge II. Which is true. Then again the manual transmission fluid isn't a working fluid, it's only there for lubrication, so it shouldn't heat up much compared to auto fluid.

 

Transmission Temperature 1 (Degrees F) 2010+
TXD: 07E02182
RXF: 046105820000
RXD: 2808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
NAM: TF1

Transmission Temperature 2 (Degrees F) 2010+
TXD: 07E02182
RXF: 046105820000
RXD: 3808
MTH: 00090005FFD8
NAM: TF2
*
It’s theorized that TF1 is the pan temperature, while TF2 is the converter outlet temperature so TF2 will fluctuate much faster than TF1 will.

Here's another nifty gauge I use too.

Air/Fuel Ratio -
TXD: 07E02144
RXF: 04614544
RXD: 2808
MTH: 05BE00800000
NAM: A/F (or AFR)

 

Good to know Sterdog is now the go to guy on sg2 info!
4 post

 

Where do I input that data??