DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

what bushings were you attempting?

 

Whitelines.

 

check my post from last year. I was going to try them until I checked their outer diameters with a micrometer compared to the Moog bushings I had on hand, no good.

I ended up returning the Whitelines and installing the Moog's.

What part # did you have?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...placement-2005-tacoma-4x4-19.html#post7944372

 

It's hard to tell from this thread, so maybe you guys can help out.

Do the Energy bushings (post #584) sold for the FJ actually work on the Tacoma LCA's?
How many guys have had success replacing them?

 

Yup, same part number, and it would appear that the same tolerance was the issue. I just figured that is was some extra rust and slight deformation of the LCA sleeve, but that makes much more sense now, and now that you are posting this, I remember reading that!

I need to invest in a good micrometer . . . but I didn't have anything to compare to anyway, other than your measurements.

I got them to send me a replacement for the one that is now beat to shit and stuck in the LCA, and will return the kit, so at least I am not out the $150 for them, but I have wasted countless hours on these damn things, and finally took the es way out.

 

Yes, they fit and work. all those posts are on the same page, or maybe one back.

 

uggh. Yeah I didn't want to take a chance of pressing them in & fuxor them up, being out $15x.xx dollars.

I am happy with the Moogs thus far.

I would install the Energy's next time around.

 

I agree, at this point I would say the Whitelines DO NOT WORK. I luckily convinced them to send me a replacement for the one that will now be thrown out along with my LCAs, and then return them.

I will add that I never could have used the Energys, my sleeves did not come out in one piece, and even if they did they were way too rusted up to be reused.

 

Good to know, looks like moot and oem are the way to go then?

 

I believe with the Energys the sleeves never come out. Basically burn the bushing out and install the bushing into the sleeve.

 

VVV

Looks like the ES can be done both ways, leaving them in and removing, but removing them will likely not work for most:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...er-secret-build-bs-thread-89.html#post8757531

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26853

 

wouldn't have worked for me, I annihilated those mfr's

 

Did you burn them out or just go to town with an air hammer ?

 

Here are a few of the pics I took, and some notes:

- Remove as much of the front suspension, steering and axles as you can, it will make everything a lot easier to access.

- With CVs, spindle and tie rods out of the way, I got to the bolts with a 4.5" cutoff wheel, had them cut out within minutes. Rotate the LCA fully one way, cut, rotate the other way, cut. Off.

- Drill out the bushings, then saw them, burning seems to an option as well.

- Get a NEW high quality hack saw blade, 18 tpi. I used this one from ACE.

- Cut the bushings sleeves out, go slow and make sure you cut parallel as to not cut into the LCA. If you place the blade to cut towards where the arm is welded to the shell, rather than just into the shell, if you cut too deep it will not be catastrophic, first pic of the cut below is not the recommended place, the second is.

- Cut a slit in the sleeve, bend inwards and then beat those bastards out. This was still a major PITA even with the sleeve fully cut, mine were rusted all to hell.

- Wire wheel and sandpaper to clean up the inside of the shell.

- Press in new bushings. As mentioned, the Whitelines are no good, got one 90% in and then it started to crush. I had a bushing press from Autozone, and the adapter kit from Harbor Freight with the correct sizes, but the adapters were too long to fit everything in the press, so I had to BFH them in. If you cut the adapter, I think you could fit everything in the press, but I planned to return the kit if it didn't work out, which it didn't.

- Hello Dirt King

 

I should add that I got 3/4 bolts out, but not the sleeves. So all four corners needed at least one cut. First is what came out without a fight, second is the pile of scrap.

 

^ Well done. Great photos too!

 

Very cool. How much did those run you? And what advantages over stock? Uniball or ball joint?

 

I would consider it only sort of well done, didn't finish the job the way I wanted . . .

$1485 shipped, they use a SS uni-ball and hardware and Delrin bushings. They allow greater droop and stuff from the uniball, and are quite a bit stronger.

 

Both of my passenger side cams and tie rod adjustment were seized. I just finished replacing those. The driver side came apart just fine.
Should I bother replacing those?

 

I would at least grease the shit out of em.