Upgraded alternator 3.4

Typically a stock alternator will put out normally about 40-50% of it's max output, when at idle speed. A Tacoma alternator spins at 2X engine speed, so if your CS130 has the same diameter pulley as the factory alternator, it is spinning at 5000RPM when your engine is at 2500RPM.

Step 1 when dealing with flicker, make sure that ALL of the grounding points of the battery, as well as the amp, are clean and tight. If you do NOT have the factory body grounding strap, then you need to get one and install it between the cab and the engine block.

Having a second battery gives your electrical system a much larger reserve to draw from. Batteries have a solid output. Meaning that when you demand more power in short bursts (i.e. havin' dem' 12s a thumpin') it can supply that demand to keep them going. The alternator has a solid state regulator which increases the field coil as higher demand on the electrical system is requested. (turning on your high beams, turning the AC blower onto high, etc..) However that solid state regulator takes a few milliseconds to make the actual demand begin.

Now here is the important part here: You don't see the lights flicker because the alternator is not putting out sufficient AMPS. You see the lights flicker because when the amp is not thumping, the voltage is at nominal capacity of 14.7V, and when the bass hits, it causes a minor drop in VOLTAGE before the regulator in the alternator can respond. The brightness of a bulb at 14.7 volts is different from the brightness of a bulb at 12.6 volts. And it is also different when the voltage is 14 volts. Just .7V drop is enough to see a change in a light bulb's brightness.

So why do some high output alternators have less, or no flicker? Because their regulators are designed to have a faster voltage response time, as well as a higher voltage "peak hold", so when the alternator IS spinning at idle, the voltage is steady enough to compensate where the flicker is less noticeable. If you were to actually look at your parking lights (assuming they are not LED) close up while your amp was pounding the speakers, you WOULD still see some flicker in them, even with a high output alternator, because the VOLTAGE does fluctuate, just not as much as it does on a factory alternator.

 

Yes! This is making more sense now I assumed it was a case such as this. But wasn't sure exactly how to explain it. Also keep in mind, that I'm speaking of not the halogen headlights. I have all led running lights, hid projectors. And then all my led light bars to which I'm experiencing these issues with specifically. My amp isn't the greatest but I do however see some very slight, i should say 'dimming' effect versus 'flickering', when the bass hits. But my issue is most apparent when the voltage changes like you spoke of now that you explained it.

The best (seemingly most accurate and reliable) voltage meter I have is the aftermarket tpms screen I have which I watch closely. I have two other votalge sources but they show much lower values. Anyways, when DRIVING with no light bars on, I see a steady rate of about 14.2 volts. when I flip all the bars on, it drops only a hair to about 14.0 volts. If I slow for a turn or come to a stop, is when I start experiencing the (although very little yet still noticeable) 'dimming/flickering'. At that point the voltage drops to about 13.6-13.8 or so. If crawling around trails it's down to about 13.5 or so and sometimes the flickering isn't as apparent but the lights do seem to be a bit dimmer. Usually without the radio blasting. I think it's not as apparent when crawling at lower steady speeds because it's operating at a somewhat steady rate... If the lights are turned off for a while, then flipped back on after a couple miles, they turn back on with 100% brightness and no flickering. This is why I'm thinking I need the second battery. I feel I'm on the verge, if not already needing, that extra reserve from the second battery to even things out and not make it struggle... Also note, that last summer all these issues were even more apparent here in az. I believe it doesn't operate as efficiently in hot weather. Thus the reason they state the 'hot' amperage output. It seems negligible, but it does seem to have a noticeable affect. We shall see this summer...

So I assumed it was still getting enough amps, and was wondering if it was another cause besides the output of the alt. Which now makes sense of how it operates at different rates and scenarios. I think I'm pretty much set with my alt. Just need that second battery so it can all operate at a steady rate. Having all my lights hooked up to the reserve battery. No?

Here's the specs of the alt I have too.

 

Wow, their alternator doesn't hit peak output until FOUR THOUSAND engine RPM?? Damn! That is high.

 

Hehe.
This was listed above the pic on their site

"Please note that there is a 3-3.5 to 1 ratio.
EX: 100 Engine RPM = 300 Alternator RPM."

So it's operating at about 2500-2600 rpms for peak @ 180. About 700-750 rpms for idle @ 130.

Or 1300-1400 rpms or so for an 'optimal' peak output around 170 as anything higher is negligible and rarely seen unless you're racing it

 

Ah, so they get their higher output by spinning the alternator a lot faster. Lot of wear on them bearings! I know I keep bragging about my alternators, but I like them because they only have a 2:1 ratio on the pulley, so at idle (700RPM) the alternator is only spinning at 1400RPM. Peak output is about 3000RPM alternator speed, which is only 1500RPM engine speed. A lot less wear on the alternator bearings in my opinion. But yeah, in the interest of full disclosure I am talking about my alternators. Hahaha.

 

Yeah I really regret spending so much on it. It's nice. But I would think these puppies are meant for race vehicles. Sdhq highly recommended it, so I went for it. Seeing as I couldn't find any members whom had one or any reviews on it...

And we shall see how long she lasts. Got a 2 year warranty. Had it for about almost a year now. I did end up having to buy another lower alternator bracket arm. Shortly after install it cracked where it's bolted on the slot of the arm. Idk if that was from previous wear or not. But it's a super tight fit and doesn't vibrate or anything. Had to remove the dipstick to get it in too. Anyways.. if it fails on me, you'll be the one go to for my next one

 

If they are meant for race vehicles then yeah, I could see the bearings being able to handle the fast spin. Was just surprised to see such high spin speeds at first. lol.

 

I would add that if the electrical load is 100 amps and the alternator output at idle is 50 amps, then the 50 amp difference is made up from the battery. If a 100 amp hour (C/20) battery is being used in this example, then the load can be satisfied for approximately 90 minutes at 77 degrees F due to the "Peukert Effect" of the battery. Less time if the ambient temperature is lower. IMHO, an alternator upgrade will probably be a better choice that a dual battery setup depending on the duration of the aftermarket electrical load, driving habits or deep cycle battery sizing.

A second challenge is the absorption charging output of the alternator's voltage regulator. If the voltage regulator was set for a wet low maintenance starting battery, it might undercharge a wet "Maintenance Free" or AGM battery and a gradual buildup of lead sulfate occur. If this is the case. a periodic "top off" with an external charger will solve the problem by fully charging the battery. If the voltage regulator was set up for a wet "Maintenance Free" or AGM starting battery, then a wet low maintenance could be overcharged and the battery will require more water.

For more information on charging, please see Section 9 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org.

 

And went from 85 amps to 160. Plug mod, bolted right up, took about 2hrs. Running Stereo with 2 800 watt amps, 5 KC Daylighters, plus regular lights, no light blinking, nothing. Works great! Buddy of mine says I put an "ambulance pkg" on the Tacoma! LOL...

 

@BartMaster1234 ^^

 

It looks like people use the CS144 alternator for this. I have to wonder if an AD244 would work instead? It was a bolt-in operation for the upgrade on my 5.7 in my S10, which originally used a CS144. That gave me a 150-amp alternator for about $100. Had to change the plug of course.

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

Oh well, at least I have a reason for having kept the old CS144 I took out of my S10! Now I can get it off the garage floor without tossing it out. Free upgrade for the win!

 

With that much room, I have to say, I think an AD244 will fit. Will have to investigate this soon. I will let you guys know.

 

Does it fit?

 

Sorry, I haven't been bothered to check it lately. Have been addressing other issues.

 

Meant to add- I have to do an oil change soon, which will have me in that area. Will eyeball it and see if there is enough room. If I get crazy, might even wrestle the one off the S10 and see if I can swap it out No promises, though- I have been needing to replace the belts for about 6 months now, and that isn't done even though I have two new belts in the back doing me no good lying there.

 

@burntkat

The Totota Power Steering belt fits the CS144 IIRC but its a bit snug. The Toyota alternator belt is a bit too small.

 

That is easily addressable, just go up a few millimeters

 

As I said, the power steering belt works (its what I use). Just to eliminate some of the guessing work.