Help removing skid plate and changing coolant

Hey Tacoma Family!

So I am about to embark on removing my skid plates and change my coolant.

Can someone please tell me the exact bolt sizes to use to remove the skid plate and loosen the drain plugs?

Oh, and tools to use to get this job done. The threads on some of these issues are confusing for me since I am a beginner at this.

Please help, I am wanting to learn on how to work on my own truck and take care of it and I know I couldn't do that with you guys and the knowledge you guys share to all the newbies coming in.

Thanks!

 

welcome, i would start off a general mechanic set with various metric sockets

 

12mm for skids. Not sure about drain bolt. If i where to guess 12 or 14mm socket.

 

ha! right - i thought this man was stuck under a boulder and needed somebody to come save his life.

OP, get a full set of wrenches instead of just the sizes required for this one job. it will save you a lot of headaches and trips to the hardware store in the future.

 

The skid plate and radiator drain are the easy part of the job. Wait until you try to reach the two block drains. BTW, those are 10mm.

 

Get a set of Metric Wrenches. say 8mm-19-mm It will save you much more $ in the long run than buying the tools specific to the job.

This would be a great start:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Metric-Combo-Wrench-Set-10-Piece-HCW10PCMM/202934505

 

Yes, buy sets of wrenches not individual wrenches. Sets cost much less. I've found Harbor Freight tools to be excellent and they have a lifetime guarantee now. I'm comparing them with my SK and Proto tools.

 

lol reminded me of this movie.

 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/automotive-tools/6-point-sockets-vs-12-point-sockets/view-all

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/6-point-vs-12-point-sockets-for-your-socket-wrench

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119717

I'd be curious as to what other TW members think about 6 vs. 12.

 

i will agree that the 6 point is stronger, but the 12 point makes for quicker work and less re-adjusting (fixed wrenches only, not the ratcheting wrenches)

 

The 6-points usually keep from rounding off the bolt head.

 

6 pt. 12 is faster but I'd rather have strength. If I really wanted speed I'd get an air wrench.

 

Ok, so the title was horrible but that was exactly what I was saying in my head!

I spent the day putting the knowledge I got from here and flushed my coolant.

All went well in that part...now for the fucked up part...wait for it....

Two bolts broke completely in half as I was wrenching it to remove the skid plates.

Now I'm left with this shit....

Any tips to remove this would be highly appreciated...

Coolant change was easier than I thought. The drain cock on the driver side was definitely HARD to get to but I figured it out.

Lots of fun if you enjoy being a grease monkey.

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

Little late now but before you take bolts off from 8 years ago spray some P B Blaster on them to loosen them up some before your go to wrenching on them. As far as getting the bolts out now you could drill them out with a drill a little smaller than the hole and try to get the rest out somehow or drill the size of the hole and run a tap through it.

They also make a oil to get broken bolts and screws out but you're still going to have to break the bolt loose somehow with something like I mentioned above.

 

I have NEVER bought a Harbor Freight tool that I did not have to return the same day from breaking. Complete garbage.

 

Damn I have had the same failure rate, ... 100%

 

In both standard and metric.

 

You really only need metric for toyotas.... a lot of 10s,12,14 and 19s

 

And most factory lugs are 21mm