Thoughts on 37s

How does this make any sense

 

My axles don't vibrate. If yours do maybe you have something worn out or broken.

http://youtu.be/2SgAzs9-hLk?list=UU2StmywuCt-xTUCVQ0N1GRA

 

What I meant is with the stock diff the shaft on the driver side moves if you grab the inside diff side because of the poor design! Theres a fix sleave you can insert or if you have an ARB its supposed to fix the problem

Thanks for the video, ill watch it when i get a chance

Edit: aren't you running a ARB? And this is the passenger side. Its the driver side casting in the stock diff the lets the axle have some play. At least thats what ive noticed on my truck and have heard is the problem from others

 

So I finally finished the rear testfit for the flares and dropped them off at the paintshop... my pait guy is gonna take his sweet time so might take a few weeks but he gave me a good deal! $300 for plastic filler, prep and paint. So hope soon not to drive around with 3 different colors

 

Just got my truck back from frame replacement, definitely considering 37's and lots of great info in this thread

 

Yup.. I learned alot too! Before I got a acc I had 33" amd didnt even think it was possible. I read alot and with a little motivation and sweat Im slowly getting there. The sweat is more of being intimidated on cutting into a perfectly good truck

 

Im able to steer to lock with my 37's and looks like I got a plenty of clearance on the firewall to for up travel, now all I need is better suspension so I can habe some up travel
-First picture is with the factory mount chopped and plated- steering at about 80% only
- The rest is to see how much more room there is.

 

What are your wheel/tire specs?

 

I would like to officially pass the 37" torch to you. The next guy that asks about it, it is your responsibility to guide them through the process. They will be apprehensive at first, but comfort them and tell them it will be ok, and eventually they will stuff 37's at full lock.

 

American Eagle wheels w/ 4.5" back space, 1.5" spacers and 37" BFG km2's

 

Thsnks for the info, you convinced me to do 37's and am glad. These trucks look proper with 37's. And now its nice to be able to steer 100% again. Now I need to get some $$$ to do locker and gears

Edit:its alright about passing the tourch.. youre still the expert

 

Soon! As soon as one of my tires blows or wears down

 

You're truck isn't long traveled, is it?
Can we get a picture of the whole truck on the 37s?

 

Gotta replace the seal in the knuckle too

 

No Long travel, I would like to jave the funds for it... I can post some soon, my cut out flares are at the paitshop getting painted! Ill take so pix wjen I get them up. With the 3" lift and cut out fenders it looks to have 6" of lift because of the wheel opening

Edit: I have more room now than when I had 33"! I took 3" out of the flares and lifted the front another 1/2" (I'm a total of 3" in front est). A 37" is 2" taller on each side so I should have 1.5" more room but for some reason it looks like more

 

Did you cut 3" all around or does it tapper? from here looks like 3" all around. Also looks awesome and your right, it makes it look like a bigger lift

 

35s are in my future but this..........may take some courage. Thanks for posting pics it really helps. Still trying to figure out how im going to do the flares what's the secret?

 

The flares I took 3&1/4" out all the way around and tried to taper the front next to the bumper less at first which didnt look right so I took 3" in the end but I plastic welded the lower 1/4" back with the lower lip ( so = 3" total in the end), the firewall 3"out of the botom and tapered to one inch toward the top of the pinchweld. I now have the opposite problem now! Plenty of up travel on the back side of the wheel well and turned to lock im a couple of inches from the front under part of the radiator support. If ill go to LT or mid travel ill drill out the spotwelds and move up my mid iner wheel well 1" and the front mayne 2-2.5" depending on batt relocation that i have in mind.

 

There is minimal extra work from 35"- 37", in my opinion if youre gonna do all that work spend a little extra and do 37's... well that's considering you can do most of the labor yourself. For me the firewall chop was about $20-$30 in material: a hand full of metal sawzall blades since they kept breaking and bending when cutting inside all the chanels, silicone, primer, paint and a lot of labor. The flares takes a little skill with a jigsaw with wood blades, I cut the lower lip off just enough to keep the rounded edge, than I took off 3&1/4 out and placsti welded the lower lip back on with a solder gun. It took two sets of flares to coplete the job since the inner diameter is longer and a couple hundred in adhesives and plastic repair kits. Its pretty involved and most guys just cut it off and leave it! I wanted a finished look and hope to resist with time after the reinforcing I did

The last picture: the jack stand was put right under the stock flare, I removed it and put the new one... and was 3" of clearance

Edit: I almost thought after they come out of the paint shop to look into reproducing them in fiberglass or plastic but most guys on here (TW) didnt think they would pay the involved cost! Plus I dont have the funds of a few grand to invest in starting the project and see if it would sell.

 

mmm....37's. A guy here is selling an almost new set of MTR 37's...