Official Tennessee Thread

Aight check it out ..... The Bilstein 5100 is a shock style, not a shock size. Just like the Fox 2.5" smooth body remote reservoir shocks I have is a style that comes in 8",10",12",14",16",18", etc ....... So the 5100 comes in different sizes. Look at the link I posted and you will see what DSMS sells and how they apply.

http://downsouthmotorsports.com/i-1...adjustable-shocks-w-optional-rear-shocks.html

The most important info on that page is here. This explains the dimensions of the shocks themselves and what will need to be altered also to run a longer shock. Notice the extended and collapsed lengths are different for the 1"-1.5" and 3"-4". Notice that the 1" has about 9" of travel and the 3" has about 11" of travel. Notice that the 1" has a collapsed length of more then 2" shorter and an extended length of over 4" shorter .........


Note for rear shocks: Rear shock Part #24-186728 will work with TSB and Non-TSB with a 1" or 1.5" AAL. 24-186728 Dimensions: Extended Length: 22.94" Collapsed Length: 14.02"

Rear Shock Part # RCD/Bilstein BE5-B110-T5 will work with TSB and 1.5" AAL or a 3" to 4" lift as stated. BE5-B110-T5 Dimensions: Extended Length: 27.28" Collapsed Length: 16.34"

When running the RCD/Bilstein BE5-B110-T5 you may need to modify your bump stops so that the suspension does not bottom out on the shock.Also due to the longer extended length of the shock a longer rear brake-line is recommended.

 

This is all you need. It's very easy. Use a jack on the spindle to lift and lower the suspension easier once you unbolt the lca from the spindle

 

That part # listed on DSMS lists it as 0-1.5" but the same # on other sites says 0-1. I guess that's what I was looking at. I would prefer not to to have to do longer brake lines and whatever else if there is a way around it and still have it perform like it should. Trying to keep it pretty basic.

 

Man. I literally walked weston through it via pm and have changed mine at least three times now. We can knock it out in an afternoon taking our time.

 

Anyone got a good method for knowing which cat is going out. I smelled absolutely horrible rotten eggs / sulfur smell and I'm positive the catalytic converters are the culprit. But which one.

 

All of them

 

You don't want cats anyway.

 

I'm not taking all the cats off the truck. I will remove the back two but if I have to replace the front two then I need to know which on bit the dust.

 

Awesome, that's the good stuff right there. I'll treat you to some picture shows if you wouldn't mind helping.

 

Get long tube headers and keep the rear ones on

 

Nope. Lol im seriously wanting to keep the exhaust as basic as possible. I have other expenses to worry about. Also quiet too

 

I want to longtube and true dual mine....

 

I've got some NEW 37x13.5x15 Super Swampers for sale. asking $1000. Were bought for a build that never happened. Pick up only. Located in Chattanooga.

 

I'd put them up in the wheels and tires section, most of us drive 2nd gen's and can't fit 15's. Your best target crowd is going to be 1st gen's and older.

 

I'm 95% sure us 1st gens can't fit them either. I can't atleast.

 

Though 1k for 4 superswamper 37's aren't bad.

 

Cats don't just go bad. They have to be affected by something upstream; ie: too much unburnt fuel entering. you would have to change out O2 sensors for becoming what we call "lazy" before replacing cats. Typically a check engine lighe would present itself. Plus, faulty cats will rattle.

 

Just found this gem.

 

Message me your number man. I've got a lot of jeep friends. I'd like to get some pictures and pass on the info.