2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

Would go nicely with the 4.88 gears and ARB locker I have planned. Wanna buy them for me? You can use the truck whenever your local

 

I'll buy you the cv's if you buy me lockers and gears. I'll even return the cores to ECGS so you can get the deposit back. Is it easier for us to justify these purchases this way?

 

LOL Se, now your talking. I can tell my wife I am giving an old friend a gift and act surprised when mine hits the front door!

 

You do NOT want to disassemble a 2nd gen birf unless you are replacing the shaft itself (LT guys) . The C-clip is internal to the "star" and the only way to remove it is use the pipe trick (which is not a guarantee, I'm 50/50 of my 4 axles.) You usually break the clip on the axle (which can be replaced, OEM boot kit includes one)

The only other alternative is to cut the axle and press the stub out.

FJ Cruisers and I believe T4R have external clips making it a lot easier to disassemble.


Here are pictures of what I'm talking about.

 

what about a cold parts cleaner bath to remove all the grease with it still assembled?

 

From what I've read they dirty up the tanks very quickly - the more rudimentary non-enviro friendly method is dunking them in a 5 gal bucket of gasoline.

I used brake cleaner and a TON of rags to clean up my axles. Honestly unless the outer boot is blown and contaminated or your switching to non-compatible greases I'd just repack what's already in there. Might be difficult to get grease under the Star/cage/balls. Could use a gun and needle to flush the old out as best as you can. Not much room behind the cage for grease.

 

I'm 6 for 6 on the pipe trick so far on 05+ axles and 3 for 3 on mini truck birfs. Hope I never get one likes your AaronArf.

 

Lucky!!! I beat my shaft so hard it mushroomed the sked 40 pipe, cracked a brake rotor smashing it. First one I did fell out with ease...almost too easy, gave me false hope that's for sure.

The most difficult was the brand new never installed OEM axle.

 

I'v got 3 out of 4 boots blown.

 

Only way to know is open them up and see how badly they are contaminated/ran dry. Depending on how long they could be toasted...

I bought my spare axles from a guy with blown boots - luckily no permanent damage. OEM axles are just too damn expensive from the dealer to chop up.

 

Theres a great chance they are toast. They work. No noise, but I'm realistic in my expectations.

 

So can you buy FJ shafts as cores and take them apart? Same length and spec? Wow.. what a bad design!

 

I'm not familiar with the other styles - or compatibility. According to the TC instructions they still have you cutting the axles. It's just easier to get to the clip!

 

Oh yeah....they're fun.

 

Stock and ordering SDHQ boots for the spare set of axles I'm building.

 

I suggest buying a second set of axles, build those before you do the install especially if your truck is your daily driver. Then use your originals to build spare +2 CVs - which you'll want.

 

I am currently waiting on wheels to go to 315/70/17 duratracs on a wheel that is 17x8.5" with a 4.30"BS. Stock UCA's for the time being. Will i clear or am I going to need spacing?
Currently rocking the stock 16"offroad wheel with 285 duratracs with 1.25" spidertrax.

 

You're going to need spacers. I'm running 315/75/16 duratracs on procomp 7069 rims that are 16x8 with a 4" backspacing. I barely rub at full lock on the front of the control arms and I should have more clearance than you do based on the difference in backspacing.

 

I thought the less BS, the further they stick out? I have the 4.5BS F5 and the 3.5BS version have the deep dish?