Colorado B.S. Thread

the the level...is real

 

Does it light up on it's own,
or only with the ignition on,
or only when the running lights are on?

Have you tried a new bulb? Filaments can become crossed and do goofy things, bulbs can "rot" out of the base as well but look fine otherwise.

If you step on the brake, does the passenger brake light come on?

 

I think Ray got new bulbs with the lights if i remember correctly

 

Also, do you have any trailer wiring? That might be the place to start,if so, remove it. Those little "Lite-Mate" modules or similar can become unreliable over time.

 

Good. I would also check the socket itself, both sides (driver and passenger) and make sure the socket base is not twisted or deformed, or corroded. There are two contact points for that particular bulb, dual filament. Sounds like he has current running where it shouldn't be.

If the brake light comes on, say when he turns on the running lights, it's most likely a crossed circuit. The bulb getting hot is normal, the little bastards have burned me after a few seconds of being on.

 

are Ray's brake lights switched on the hot leg or the ground?
If they're switched on the ground and he combined grounds could that explain it?
If they're switched on the hot, ignore me.

 

When I turn the lights on the driver side just comes on really bight. When I press on the brakes the passenger brightens up but the driver stays the same.
The passenger light works like the was it is suppose to.

I didn't try switching the light bulbs to see if it's the bulb. But they are brand new housings with new bulbs. I should give that a try when I get home.

Yes I do.... I was thinking about removing the trailer wiring because they are spliced in. I was thinking of running the wires straight to each other.... You think that's worth a try?

 

I'm 95% sure they are switched hot... It is a prerunner though.

 

You have a crossed circuit. Check bulbs and sockets first, switch the bulb to the other side. If no change or the problem doesn't follow the bulb, remove the trailer lighting module and wire up direct.

The reason the light seems so bright is because both filaments are lit up. This is NOT abnormal though, it happens at night too with the lights on and foot on the brake.

 

Ok when i get back i'll give that a shot with the bulbs. and check the colors wires to see if anything is crossed.

 

The crossed circuit is most likely internal with the Lite Mate/trailer wiring component. Prolly happened when you were subjected to the F150 enema.

American wiring uses two wires for the rear plus the ground. One is for tail/running lights only. The other splits duty between brake and turn signal using the same filament in the bulb.

Toyota, Nissan and others use a 3 wire system plus the ground. One is for Tail/running lights, second is for the brake light and the third is for the cute little amber light that is the turn signal.

This is why we need the funky little black box, or the Lite Mate as I call it, so the two systems can get along together.

 

OK Brett I switched both bulbs, took off the trailer wiring and it still doing the same thing. But there is something else I noticed. With the lights off and I press on the brakes both lights come on but the passenger is brighter then the driver. When I turn on the lights the driver is brighter then the passenger.

 

I know you were referring to the older Brett, but sounds like one of the bulbs is in 180 degrees off.

 

Do you have a multi meter Ray?
you could just go through each of the three wires Brett is talking about (on each side) one at a time

Just saw little Brett's comment.... Is that possible with those bulbs/sockets?

#sillyfirstgens

A more expensive, but guaranteed solution....
1. Remove bulb from truck
2. Replace truck with 2nd gen
3. Toss bulb



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Ooooh, just noticed that this is my 2100th post. Does that mean I can drink while posting now? (legally)

Since I like this number, I believe any further posts I make to these forums will be made as edits to this post. Please book mark this post for future reference.

It would also be helpful if someone (say maybe young Brett) were to monitor this post and quote/paste as necessary in other threads. Thanks!

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http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/colorado/364789-texas-driver-colorado-winter-help.html#post9928524

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So the inner part of the socket was backwards? Effectively powering up the bulb backwards?
Don't tell Brett he was right, it'll just swell his head.

Glad you got it fixed

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What you've actually done is downgrade to a more aggressive looking tire. Shame really, but don't feel too bad. Lot's of people I know and like have made the same mistake and I don't think any less of them for it.
Unfortunately, I'm not your buyer for a couple of reasons.
First, the tires are too small for me. This is in no way a reflection of their awesomeness.
Second, because I have michelins, I will not require new tires for ~100k miles or 5-6 years. By this time both my tires and yours will still have tread, but they'll be too old.

With tires of this quality, you need to look for the right buyer. The right buyer will be a gentlemen who possesses refined taste, rugged good looks, and a healthy dose of humility.
Good luck with sale!

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I told you Ray....
And Brett, you need to get to work

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crap! screwed it up

 

Is that a joke.

 

Lol

 

I do.... and I kind of know how to use it .... kind of

 

No. From your description, it isn't sounding like a crossed circuit unless you can confirm both filaments are lighting up at once. you could do this with a multi meter as Eric suggested. But it sounds like one of the bulbs is lighting the brighter filament with the running lights and vice versa.

 

if those are aftermarket lights it wouldn't surprise me. Could be incorrect bulbs too.

 

"Is it too early to go to bed?" I ask myself as I make more coffee