LED Headlights

Mine lasted 8 months before they blew. I hope you have better luck because I really miss them.

 

Mine's going 10+ months so far and no issues

 

I hope they continue that way. I loved them but in the end just didn't trust the reliability. If I'm on vacation or away from home I'm screwed. Yes, I know you should carry a spare set in the truck (I do now) but I would venture a guess that 99% of us don't.

 

I do have a set of sylvania silverstar zxe for back up though.

 

sooo what brands are good and last?

 

Lol... That's my back up lights also sitting under the rear seat. I bought a set of 5900k bulbs off Amazon after the LED's went out and they match my csjumpers leds in the DTRL / parking lights perfectly.

 

That's still up in the air at the moment. The thing is, almost all are the same design. Lifetime, Badass, etc... You have to remember any bulb that has moving parts is "most likely" not going to last as long as a standard bulb. Especially if you drive in dusty conditions or over rough terrain. The bulbs are "back weighted" so they are very heavy in the back. When they work they work great but when they go out you have to send them back in and wait for the replacement bulb. Not a really good plan if you want to see at night.

I did a complete review from start to finish here.

 

I know this is a tough subject. I want to be clear on my LED's as being the Brite Ass Led's. They have a 2yr. warranty (hope they last longer). I do have my old stock lights in the rear seat storage (just in case). Still in the trial basis and hopefully the long haul.

I don't do rough off-road excursions and stay out of water. However, it does see some off-road roads and snow.

 

I didn't either. I traveled mostly highway with the exception of the 2 times a year we go off road in Colorado. No rock crawling or anything. Brightass is a similar design as Lifetime. I hope you continue to have good luck

 

I'd love to see a comparison between Brite Ass LED's and Lifetimes. Something at a long range, not just in front of a garage door.

Somebody would have to waste a bunch of money to make that happen though.

 

what are the top 5 in any order?

 

Halogen
Halogen
Halogen
Halogen
Halogen

 

^ LOL

 

Retrofit HID
Retrofit HID
Retrofit HID
Retrofit HID
Retrofit HID

 

^ this.

Still running my 3 years old Morimoto ballasts and bulbs.

 

X2. Swapped my retro's for just a drop in HID kit while I rebuild them. Cant wait to have them back on the truck.

 

I am considering purchasing these. I've seen nothing but good reviews on the BA LEDs. I do have one question, why buy the BA H11 for fogs when I can purchase the Moritomo with a housing built specifically for LED? It's an honest question, just wondering if there's an answer I'm not seeing...(http://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xb-led-fog-lights-type-t.html#.VbBAYYr3anP)

 

How has there been 9 pages and no one discussing engineered housing reflector angles? The reason so many get flashed for HID conversions is because the HID bulb light source orientation is different than the halogen filament orientation. This causes increased scatter because the light source is no longer positioned correctly for the reflector to project the light to the engineered location down the road, causing scatter. If the housing is designed for HID's this is accounted for, however our housings are designed for halogens.

Unless the LED light source is a single LED in the exact location and size of the halogen coil filament, and emits light in all directions like a filament the light will not be projected correctly and suffer a similar fate to the HID retrofits. Earlier postings showing before and after pictures clearly show changes in beam pattern indicating improper reflector angles and wasted light and risking being a hazard to oncoming drivers. Retrofits are also not legal on public roads.

My preferred method for increasing light output is old school, (unless you run a complete new lighting housing assembly designed for HIDs or LEDs) run a standalone relay harness and higher wattage bulbs. This will maintain the the correct engineered pattern and have efficient projection down the road. Any coating to change light color actually reduces light output. These are the bulbs I prefer, Orsam Hyper 85w/80, they still have good life and don't get too hot compared to higher wattage bulbs and offer a massive improvement over stock. These are also not legal on public roads as legally the max wattage is 65w.
http://www.rallylights.com/h-412xo-h4-9003-hb2-12v-osram-hyper-each.html

 

Yep, it's been discussed.

And yes, this is the way the BA LEDs work - 2 LEDs per 'bulb' (in the case of an H4), located where the filaments are located on a halogen H4 so the correct beam orientation is maintained. Top of the 'bulb' for low beam (so it hits the upper side of the reflector and bounces down toward the road, and then both the top and bottom LEDs for reflection both down and up. The camera doesn't capture the whole story when looking at the beam pattern. Is the focus as sharp as a halogen? Not quite. But the term 'focus' is very loosely used for a halogen reflector housing in the first place, especially compared to a projector beam setup. Even at that, they're focused better than many stock halogen setups that are 100% stock and 'legal'.

I've been running mine for 7 months now, with at least 5 hours per week driving in the dark. I've not once received a headlight flash from oncoming traffic. The light is so crisp and white, that it makes a halogen look yellow in comparison. Fantastic beam. It's increased my level of safety at night, no doubt, and I can assure you that I'm blinding no one.