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Any Okies in here?

Discussion in 'Oklahoma' started by Cossi, Jun 21, 2009.

  1. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:06 PM
    #2921
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    I might be in depending on timing/price
     
  2. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:11 PM
    #2922
    frizbal

    frizbal Well-Known Member

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    Sean
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 TRD Off-Road
    Man, the last amp I bought was an alpine v12 around 2005,and it was almost $500. Times have changed. Good looking setup.
     
  3. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:13 PM
    #2923
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    Sean
    Louisiana
    Vehicle:
    2010 DBL Cab TRD OR 4x4
    Just a few
    Yeah waiting to see how much it actually cost to fix my truck....they left a few items off the repair list so I have to talk to the auto shop.
     
  4. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:16 PM
    #2924
    Gabezz

    Gabezz Well-Known Member

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    Gabe
    Los Angeles, CA (Montebello)
    Vehicle:
    '12 Tacoma TRD Off-Road DCSB
    Volant CAI w/Ram Air Scoop, Volant Throttle Body Spacer, Flowmaster SS Dual Exhaust, JBA Cat4ward Headers, Body Armor Side Steps, ProComp 3in Suspension w/Pro Runner UCA's and shocks, Various KC Hilites LEDs.
    Oh I gotcha, I read that wrong, lol. Sorry :facepalm:We'll just what Sean said! Ha Long day at work lol. Those Subs look beefy and sweet Amp to go with it. Good price too. Three day weekend here I come! Sucks we're gonna have crappy weather this weekend, I need to install my KC reverse flood lights soon! Dark af reversing into my garage lol.
     
  5. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:18 PM
    #2925
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.

    It'll be hard to swing. I'll be running dry after buying this amp. Being a highschooler and only getting 10 hours a week sucks. I like working 70-80 hours a week during summer
     
  6. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:22 PM
    #2926
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.

    It's fine . Ya my buddy is running two Rockford fosgate r1s and one of these subs with half of the power this amp gives will stomp my buddies two subs. Let me know if you need any help with the lights.
     
  7. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:25 PM
    #2927
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    Louisiana
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    2010 DBL Cab TRD OR 4x4
    Just a few
    Yeah....during the summer I might try to find a part time job. Only problem with that is I already work 50 hrs a week for my current job.
     
  8. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:38 PM
    #2928
    Gabezz

    Gabezz Well-Known Member

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    Gabe
    Los Angeles, CA (Montebello)
    Vehicle:
    '12 Tacoma TRD Off-Road DCSB
    Volant CAI w/Ram Air Scoop, Volant Throttle Body Spacer, Flowmaster SS Dual Exhaust, JBA Cat4ward Headers, Body Armor Side Steps, ProComp 3in Suspension w/Pro Runner UCA's and shocks, Various KC Hilites LEDs.
    What I'm most worried is finding a place for the switch and actually drilling my dashboard to install the switch. Lol If you have experience with that or willing to try that then I might need your help haha. I need to probably buy a Dremel soon, I think those are good for drilling shit. I kinda goofed installing my LED lights on my grille, and don't want to mess up my dash lol :D
     
  9. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #2929
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    Do you have any spare switch blanks?
     
  10. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #2930
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    Sean
    Louisiana
    Vehicle:
    2010 DBL Cab TRD OR 4x4
    Just a few
    I have one of the Iggy switch holders if you want it. $40 with the switch blanks.
     
  11. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:43 PM
    #2931
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.

    Ya. It's kinda ironic. You can spend lots of time working and no time chill and have tons of spare cash. Or normal working normal chilling low cash lol. You can't have both.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2015 at 6:45 PM
    #2932
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

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    Louisiana
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    2010 DBL Cab TRD OR 4x4
    Just a few
    Lol yep.
     
  13. Feb 26, 2015 at 8:08 PM
    #2933
    Gabezz

    Gabezz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Gabe
    Los Angeles, CA (Montebello)
    Vehicle:
    '12 Tacoma TRD Off-Road DCSB
    Volant CAI w/Ram Air Scoop, Volant Throttle Body Spacer, Flowmaster SS Dual Exhaust, JBA Cat4ward Headers, Body Armor Side Steps, ProComp 3in Suspension w/Pro Runner UCA's and shocks, Various KC Hilites LEDs.
    I have 3 unused blanks just below the A/C control panel. I don't mind using the KC light switch it came with, I already have one for the front KC light switch installed to the right of the left side switch panel, I think I might want the new switch right above it. But I had a shop install those lights. It be nice to install these myself without starting an electrical fire in my truck. Lol lol:p
    What are those? I have the TRD OR so the left side switch panel is all used up. No blanks there. Just where the A-Trac button is.
     
  14. Feb 26, 2015 at 8:17 PM
    #2934
    Sje1124

    Sje1124 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Sean
    Louisiana
    Vehicle:
    2010 DBL Cab TRD OR 4x4
    Just a few
  15. Feb 26, 2015 at 8:20 PM
    #2935
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    A iggy switch panel is a panel that holds 6 switches I. Your center cubbyhole. I don't think you need it yet but it's up to you. I had to drill a 6/4 inch hole to get enough wires to my cubbyhole to wire the switches. I would just mount a switch on one of the blanks below the radio. That's what I did at first
     
  16. Feb 26, 2015 at 8:22 PM
    #2936
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    Gabezz. Do you know how to wire in a light?
     
  17. Feb 26, 2015 at 9:02 PM
    #2937
    Gabezz

    Gabezz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2014
    Member:
    #125207
    Messages:
    383
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Gabe
    Los Angeles, CA (Montebello)
    Vehicle:
    '12 Tacoma TRD Off-Road DCSB
    Volant CAI w/Ram Air Scoop, Volant Throttle Body Spacer, Flowmaster SS Dual Exhaust, JBA Cat4ward Headers, Body Armor Side Steps, ProComp 3in Suspension w/Pro Runner UCA's and shocks, Various KC Hilites LEDs.
    Dude, that's cool as hell. I'm sure I seen those around but that's nice...

    I definitely don't "need" one, but that switch panel is gnarly tho...

    It's the drilling a hole to fit the switch into the truck dashboard I haven't done before, I also haven't really taken apart the dash either. But wiring it in the truck I can do. I was able to successfully install a Pop and lock into the door lock before, so somewhat familiar wiring a harness from the rear into the cab.

    But when the weather gets warmer, I'll have a BBQ and invite ya'll over to chill and work on our trucks. I have a big driveway lol :D:D
     
  18. Feb 26, 2015 at 9:04 PM
    #2938
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Male
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    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.
    30e726db30ed13b5ae2a79dc2051e78f_3e55aef191290181ef8d3a45b306c5c6769360af.jpg
    This is just a general overview for anyone curious about wiring in electronics. (It is up to you to use common sense when following this example, I'm not responsible for what you do)

    First of- determine the electrical pull of whatever object you happen to be hooking up at the time. In this diagram it's a kc light. When you figure out how many amps your accessory will pull you can determine what gauge wire you are going to use. This diagram will give you an idea. (Will edit and include)
    Now that you know what size wire you are going to run we can get to work. Run two wire from your battery/fuse panel into your cab. (There is a rubber boot on the drivers side of our trucks that makes it incredibly easy to do.) one wire will go from the hot terminal of the battery through a inline fuse to the switch( do not hook it up to the battery until I tell you to.) the other wire will go from the switch inside your cab to the accessory. So don't cut your wire until you've got it to where you need it.

    Once the wires are in the cab you can run them to your desired switch location (be sure to keep clear of where they can get caught on your foot when driving or get damaged by moving parts.

    Once you have the wires where you are going to install the switch you can proceed to strip about a quarter of an inch of insulation off of the end and expose the copper wire.

    When you get the insulation stripped back you can add the required connector to hook into the spade on your switch.(make sure you have the proper size connectors for your wire.)

    When you have your connectors crimped onto the wire you can proceed to hook up the switch. All a switch does is act as a interrupt or between the battery and a accessory. So if your switch is not lighted there will be two prongs coming out of the back of the switch. Just push the connectors onto the switches spade connectors.

    If the switch is a lighted switch the. There can be three or more pins. In this case there will be a power in, power out, and a ground for the light in the switch. You'll have to look at your switch to determine what is what.

    Now that the switch is hooked up properly we can move on to hooking up your accessory. On a light there will be two wires coming out of it. One is a positive (normally red) and one is a negative (normally black) determine which wire is which and then run the power out wire from the switch to where it will be out of the way and end up at the accessory. Once there connect the power out wire to the hot wire of your accessory.

    Now all that you have to do is ground out your accessory. On small loads such as a light it is relatively simple to ground it out. Just find a good spot that is close to your accessory. Such as a bolt or other similar item.

    Now that your switch. And accessory are hooked up we are ready to connect your wire to the battery/ your fuse panel.

    That's it. If your accessory is not working check to make sure that there is a unblown fuse of the proper size in your online fuse. That all connections are secure and are not able to short out. And that your switch is hooked up properly.

    P.s. Be sure to heat shrink/ electric tape all connections to make sure they stay secure and cannot short out. And also use wire loom to protect the wire where it is needed
     
  19. Feb 26, 2015 at 9:12 PM
    #2939
    TimberLandTaco

    TimberLandTaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    #135369
    Messages:
    1,489
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mason
    Northeast Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 Timberland Mica TRD Offroad
    Light, Bumpers, and lots of switches.

    I was afraid to drill into the dash too. That's why I just drilled into the blank. Plus. I've never had my dash apart. I've always just fished wires around in it lol
     
  20. Feb 27, 2015 at 5:00 AM
    #2940
    frizbal

    frizbal Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    First Name:
    Sean
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    Vehicle:
    2012 TRD Off-Road
    6/4 inch hole? Is that a 1.5 inch hole then? Haha
     
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