remote wire?

Im sure i need a remote wire with my amp install. Im curious where i hook my remote wire too?

 

The antenna wire in your headunit wiring harness. Im sure its blue...

 

Are you sure its blue? I think theres more than one blue wire. Im just unsure about which one and what color?

 

Not the antenna wire. This will cause it to work only when the radio is on (in most cases). You want it connected to a switched power lead. If you have a multimeter, check for a wire that is on when the ignition is on and off when you turn the truck off. If you pick a constant power wire you will drain your battery when not in use.

You can tap into something at the fuse box, which is what I typically do for a stock HU setup. With an aftermarket HU and wiring harness, there should be a switched lead. Again, just use a multimeter to find it.

 

Mines spliced to the antenna, and it works great.. maybe im special.

 

I believe i will just run my remote wire to the fuse box for the radio...will this work just as well?

 

You can wire your remote wire to remote turn lead on the back of your aftermarket deck or do a piggyback on the the power wire of the deck as well.

 

You may have an issue if you use the power wire to the HU. Typically this is a constant power source. Using a constant power source on the remote lead will cause the amps (or what ever the remote power lead is connected to) to stay on even when the vehicle is off. Not really an issue if you don't mind jump starting the truck, as it may drain your battery while it is off.

I suggest finding a switched lead, either at the fuse box or from the back of the HU itself. The power antenna lead, in my experience, is only on when the radio is turned on. That means when the radio is turned off, like when you are playing a CD, the amplifiers will turn off.

 

No longer an issue, i realized my JL audio amp has what is calle ''signal sensing'' on the amp. When an audio signal is avaliable it turns on...when its not it turns off. Really cool, thanks anyway.

 

Digging this thread up, got a question. I'm going to be installing a sub hopefully next weekend. First time I'll be doing an install with a stock head unit. Did find a wiring diagram in another thread so I'm pretty sure I know what wires to tap into to use the speaker level inputs on my amp.

My main question involves the remote lead turn on wire. Based on the above comments regarding tapping into the wrong wires on the harness I'm just going to go to the fuse box using an add a fuse thing. Now, can anyone confirm which one of the open spots only gets power when the truck is on? I don't have a multimeter to test. If no one knows, do you guys think it would be okay using one of the double add a fuse things and then using the spot for the power outlets since they only have power when the ignition is turned on?

 

Hey, JT, I think it would be easier to tap the radio switched power wire. Radio pulls out easily enough and the wiring diagrams can be seen over at TTORA website factory service manual page. They don't have 2009 but 2006 and 2007 should be pretty much identical for this purpose.

Looks like the green (ACC) wire is the one you want.

Here is the link to the overall FSM page

 

Thanks. I already have to pull the radio out anyways to tap into the wires for the speakers so if that's the wire I'll need for the remote wire it will be easy to do while I have it out. Just wasn't sure which one before and I didn't want to end up tapping something that gives constant power or someting.

EDIT: Also, are the front seats easy to take out? I see two bolts in the very front I need to take out, what about in the back I didn't see anything. And I'd imagine there are some wires to unplug for the airbags, etc. I want to pull the passenger seat out to mount my amp under there.

 

The front seats are easy to take out. I had the drivers out doing my alarm/remote start install. Makes a lot more room to work. There are a couple of plugs under there for the air bag and seat belt sensors. The air bag plug is a little tricky. It has a removable insert and 2 tiny springs that can get loose. Otherwise just 4 bolts. Just be careful... and disconnect the truck battery (take off the neg cable) at least 30 seconds prior to fooling with the airbag connector.

Oh, my bad above... the switched ACC wire is gray, not green. D'ohhhh.

 

LOL yea I was looking at the diagram and found the ACC wire and I was staring at it thinking wow are my eyes tricking me here that sure doesn't look green. Thanks for the info. Want to mount my amp under there and run the wiring under the carpet to make everything need since the sub will be right behind that seat then. Guess I'll have to drill a hole under there somewhere to make a spot to ground the amp.

This is what I'll be putting in.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=112

I was a little hesitant about going with an 8" but I've heard plenty of good things about that one. It was either that or a shallow mount Pioneer. From my personal experience I've always preferred ported vs. sealed boxes which is why I ended up going with that. And I'll be using the Alpine MRP-M350 from a prior setup. I just gotta track down a connector thing that goes into the speaker level input on my amp since I don't have it. Then I'll be in business.

 

What would be so wrong with that? just curious

 

I think he means it would only have power when you're using the radio function itself, FM/AM. So when you would switch to CD/Aux or satellite it would turn off.

 

I saw those JLs after I had done my Pioneer. They look interesting and the box is even smaller than the sealed one for my Pioneer 10". Let us know how it sounds.

 

Oh haha I see now... brainfart.

 

The antenna wire is a remote turn on lead for power antennas. When the radio is turned on then the antenna goes up. Turn the radio off, or switch to another source, then the antenna goes down. So if you are listening to something other than the radio, such as a CD or AUX input device, the amps would turn off.

Do not confuse the term "radio" for "headunit". The radio is a function of the H/U.


Didn't see that someone already responded to your question and you had already seen that response. Well, there is my complete answer anyway.

 

It sounds like you are on the right track. For future reference for anyone tripping across this thread, this wiring diagram/legend might help with sorting out the "blue" wires

http://www.nwtoys.com/reference/stereo-wiring-legend