Supercharger is installed!

So y'all are basically just bolting on a SC and boosting 8-10psi without any ECU tuning and some are adding a 7th injector? Then hoping the factory ECU will compensate fueling and timing for all the additional air?

I'm seriously asking because I'm confused.

 

Ecus are not cheap. And there was only one used one in the country for an 01 v6 4x4 manual. I bought a remanufactured one and it will be coming soon. I have a wideband. If I am cruising at 55mph or higher the light comes on every quarter mile. Then it retards the timing to zero so power is cut substantially. You can't climb a hill worth a shit. Under 55 the light comes on randomly, or when I load the engine around 2500rpm.

 

Did you make sure to connect the FPR to the boost port?

You need to do this to increase the fuel pressure during boost and help with the lean condition.

Also, make sure to install a timing map controller to minimize detonation.

The supercharger for the 3.4L is a recipe for disaster without mods. The lean condition will eventually kill the engine long term.

The only way to run it safely is with fuel mods: walbro pump, cooler plugs, cooler thermostat, larger injectors or 7th, piggy back ECU, wide band sensor. Oh yeah and don't forget about the tranny, you will need to upgrade the valve body to handle the extra power.

If you have a chance visit the URD website, they have everything you will need.

RJM

 

The 7th injector includes a timing and fuel calibration piggyback ecu. I also have a maf sensor calibrator. I can retard timing and add as much fuel as I want, or even reduce fuel use. With a standard pulley you will only make 6-6.5 psi max. I used to make 9.5 psi with the URD 2.2" pulley. Now for whatever reason I only make about 7 psi no matter the tune.

 

Have you checked your MAF sensor?

Any of oiled filters will coat the MAF sensor and cause poor response and idling. If you do clean it make sure to use sensor safe no contact cleaner.

Just another thing to rule out.

RJM

 

sounds like u got all ur bases covered.. what are your compression numbers isu2014?

 

That makes more sense. Sounds like you have a leak then. If it's a close loop, no dump to atmosphere, then you MAF is reading X amount of air in and it's leaking by before making into the engine. Thus the limp mode and retarded timing and rich fuel trim. Perhaps the MAF needs calibrating some more or the fuel trim may be too high. I've got a simple program for my VW that can change a dozen settings and it takes a little time to tweak things when learning on your own. Making small changes and physically writing down parameters as well as logging what I can on my laptop.

Are the dealerships useless at setting these up? Seems like it'd be cost effective to pay these 'certified' techs to do their job. Although I don't even let them change the oil in my Lexus.

 

This thread is a mix of similar problems (throwing a knock code) with 2 different setups.

The OP is running a S/C with no fuel mods.

isu2014 is running the URD 7th.

Have you checked to make sure you have no restrictions on your intake? I recall that the install instructions did call out that using the stock metal throttle body gasket instead of the TRD paper one would drop the boost by about 1psi as the metal one does cut off the aperture of the throttle body a bit. Not sure if this is related to your issue but figured I'd mention it.

 

Don't know. I don't live in the same state as my truck and it's cold as balls these days so I don't have any motivation to go and work on it anymore. I'm so close to just selling it. I've tried so many things and spent several hundred on it already, I'm just sick of it.

You don't understand. When the ecu triggers the P0330 cel code(knock sensor malfunction or open circuit), the ecu automatically retards the timing to zero degrees. It's a safety feature since the engine can't detect if you are knocking or not, so it forces the engine into limp mode so it absolutely will not knock. You could never accelerate hard enough to make it knock in limp mode. You couldn't win a race against a geo metro in limp mode. Then as soon as you clear the cel, you are out of limp mode and can accelerate normally until the light comes back on.

The dealer won't touch it. It's an aftermarket tuner. It needs dyno tuned anyway.

My intake is good, unless the tube is collapsing, which was suggested once. But at this point I'm not worried about making more boost. I can't even drive well making no boost.

 

OK this is the knock sensor harness, you can see the two knock signal wires (grey and black) i have stripped and twisted together... the brown wire is connected to the braided sheild ground wires that follow the knock signal wires into the blue insulation..




this is where it plugs in, kinda dark under the timing belt cover.. accessed on the passenger side of the motor.

 

Awesome thanks!!!!

 

Here's is what I have for injectors: 1997 Supra
23250-46050 - Lt Blue - 93-95 2JZ-GE, CA spec; 96-97 all
Air assisted
310cc/min
Big enough to run the 2.2" pulley with the stock ECM. I also have a MAP-ECU3 but it's @ 0 additional fuel for my street tune across the fuel map. I have presets for different things but its on the stock ECU 90% of the time. Just my $0.02 AND I did a lot of research on the knock sensors. I had/have teh same problem and Autozone carries the EXACT same sensor for half the price. Both the DENSO and the MAT....(whatever it called) are supplied direct from the manufactures of the sensor. So both Toyota and Autozone get them form the same place.

 

Updates?

 

Took it off and sold it. Now I still have a knock code popping up

 

This is strange. Ever since I installled my SC it has treated me well. All I have had to do was tune the timing to get rid of the knock at 2000-2500 rpm and that's it. The fuel map from URD is perfect. My AFRs are right on. The only problem I've had (which isn't really serious) is some knocking from -6 inHg to 0 psi. I think this is strange since it should usually ping when in boost. I went and retarded the timing some in this area which helped, but it still will do it sometimes. I still need to spend some time fine tuning.. Has anyone ever had knock before boost like this?

 

It could be the point of breaking over from a vacuum to pressurized that's messing with it.

 

Did these injectors end up fitting under the fuel rails?

@BlackPearl would like to know as well